Boom screw holes bored out

Thread starter #1
At some point before I owned my '90 14.2 the boom vang eye pulled out of the boom and stripped the screw holes. I've gotten a new eye and tried installing it but the holes in the boom are way too big. Any ideas for repairing without replacing the boom?
I'm assuming you have the pad eye that goes on the boom, if not your best option will be to find one that has holes spaced the same as those in the boom.
Then you can just move up to the next size bigger fastener. On my 1987 they appear to be original and are #10 screws.

If the bigger size will fit through the holes in the vang's pad eye they should get a tight grip into the boom, unless the holes there are really ripped out, shredded or cracked. If the bigger fastener won't fit through the holes in the pad eye it should be possible to carefully enlarge them just enough to let the bigger screw pass through without weakening the pad eye. I checked mine and the pad eye's feet are plenty wide enough to permit enlargement without weaking it. Don't forget to apply Threadlocker to help it hold and seal up the holes...

If you don't have a pad eye that fits the current boom holes, you can use any pad eye and one of the current holes and seal the orphan. Moving the attachment point an inch in either direction is not going to impact the vang's performance a whole lot.

jim / so. fla.
Just my 2cents worth! If you have'nt done it before; re-drilling could be downright dangerous if the object being drilled is not held securely while drilling, especially on a small object like a pad-eye.
The larger drill bit will try to bind and pitch the object being drilled. Of course; the safest method is with a small round file and most important; make sure the new screw passes freely through the new hole in the pad-eye.
I've used the "next largest screw" trick with success, but only with the clam cleats. For the vang eye, there's going to be considerable force on those screws (that's why the pull out!). Consider using stainless steel rivets. I did up on my spreaders -- the rivet gun needs to be pretty strong (and so do you!) so don't buy a cheap $15 one.
The screws "pull out" because of galvanic corrosion - screw or rivet, put some anti-sieze compound on them .

Good sailing !

Considering the extreme loads placed on this point, I'm surprised those tiny screws hold out as long as they do and since the padeye is not designed for a large screw, the SS rivets make good sense to me. I recently tightened the screws on mine but my experience with sheet metal screws is, they do not like this retightening business too much so I'm off to find a friend with a heavy duty riveter. The rivets may come loose but will not pull out easily!
George, if rivets come loose its a matter of time before they will pull out, and yes , rivets, if they are installed properly usually don't . I see screws and rivets on boats obviously they both work .

My point is the use of an anti-sieze/corrosive compound to isolate stainless from aluminum .

Hi Rob!

Are you referring to the anti/corrosive lube used on automotive brakes parts. If so; I have the Alum and the Copper based type, which would you say is better for this application?
I use a Nickel based anit-sieze made by Permatex , you should be able to find it at any automotive store . Some Moly compounds are Nickel based so it might work for you. Copper isnt recommended for Stainless.

Good Sailing !
Great tip Rob! I'm on to that today. Also, after seeing that mast foot with the split end I'm inclined to pull off all my end caps and coat the insides of my mast and boom wherever possible.