boom replacement / repair?

eastbayandy

New Member
just bought a "73 sunfish, and should have looked a little closer when purchasing, but while unloading discovered the boom is completely cracked where the gooseneck attaches . looks like a repair was attempted but the joint moves and it looks like the boom is toast. The upper spar is bent, but I think I can straighten it. What are my options for a boom. any good used ones out there? Looks like new is $230, but I didn't even see a shipping option. There is no dealer, as far as I know, here in Panama City, FL
 

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I think the suggested repair I've heard here before is to flip the lower boom end for end (switch the end caps) so that the gooseneck is on a strong part of the original boom. And then you can repair/reinforce the damaged end with a pipe sleeve that matches the inside diameter of the spar.
 
Tag is spot on but the damage to your boom is pretty bad and if you do a 180 turn on the boom you will also need to reposition the mainsheet blocks.
I sell used Sunfish spar sets: Boom with blocks (no gooseneck) $45; Upper boom: $35 Mast $65. However they are pick-up only as shipping
is very expensive and difficult to arrange. I am in Cazenovia, NY about 20 miles S.E. of Syracuse. E-mail me at: [email protected] if interested. from the looks of your photo I am guessing these spars were used in salt water. My spars are freshwater use only.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
Prices for parts have become outrageous under Laser Performance. You can easily make a lower spar using an upper and save some money, but their pricing on upper spars is insane too. Plus they have driven away most of their dealers.
 
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yep, the closest dealer WAS Pensacola, BUT they are no longer dealing with Laser P. I'm going to try a repair and 180. I've got some better blocks so I'll switch them while I'm at it. Are the caps glued in? should they be well sealed?
 
Tag is spot on but the damage to your boom is pretty bad and if you do a 180 turn on the boom you will also need to reposition the mainsheet blocks.
I sell used Sunfish spar sets: Boom with blocks (no gooseneck) $45; Upper boom: $35 Mast $65. However they are pick-up only as shipping
is very expensive and difficult to arrange. I am in Cazenovia, NY about 20 miles S.E. of Syracuse. E-mail me at: [email protected] if interested. from the looks of your photo I am guessing these spars were used in salt water. My spars are freshwater use only.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
thanks, wish you were closer
 
Tag's advice is good, inserts & sleeves work well for repairing hollow spars... if you can't find an exact match for the insert, fill the gap with sheet aluminum cut into a rectangular panel (or panels) and wrapped around the insert. I did this for a snapped Laser mast (the break a foot or so above the deck), occasionally tapping with a hammer and using epoxy glue to hold everything in place... I even used an outer sleeve of aluminum for reinforcement, but that was only because I was sailing to the islands off northern Baja, and peace of mind was more important to me than the additional weight. :rolleyes:

The mast repair worked like gangbusters, thing was bombproof and lasted till the boat was sold many years later, LOL. A good metal supplier or industrial warehouse will probably have the aluminum pipes or tubing you want, fairly cheap since you only need relatively short sections. Handy Metal Mart in National City, CA, used to be my go-to shop for that sort of metal, they never failed to have something I could use. If you just do the insert and you're dismayed by the Frankenstein look of the spar, you can always cover the former break with a surfing/sailing sticker or whatever. Cheers!!! :cool:

P.S. Thought I'd add the lengths of the insert & sleeve I used for my Laser mast. The insert was something like 22", while the outer sleeve was shorter and ran around 14". You'll do fine with the insert only, that boom break is not as critical as my Laser mast break, aye? You won't need metal pieces as burly as the ones I used, in fact you can keep the additional weight down by choosing the insert wisely, balancing between strength and weight. Aluminum tubing is very strong, and a properly-reinforced spar will last a good long time, you should only have to mess with it once, LOL. ;)
 
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I think the suggested repair I've heard here before is to flip the lower boom end for end (switch the end caps) so that the gooseneck is on a strong part of the original boom. And then you can repair/reinforce the damaged end with a pipe sleeve that matches the inside diameter of the spar.
Since I'm going to 180 the mast and be moving and replacing the blocks with some nice Harken I have, is the old spacing on the boom the best, these are "1973 spars and maybe it was discovered different places on the boom are better? giong from the forward end, my blocks are at 74" and 126".
 
You can cut out the broken section and insert a aluminum sleeve. I have one with a break in the same
area where someone welded a sleeve on the outside. If you figure in the time and effort need for repair
I'd just buy a used one somewhere and be done with it.
 
You can cut out the broken section and insert a aluminum sleeve. I have one with a break in the same
area where someone welded a sleeve on the outside. If you figure in the time and effort need for repair
I'd just buy a used one somewhere and be done with it.
I tried that 1st. couldn't find one . I'm going to repair and keep my eye out for some used ones as a back up. at least I can be sailing until and it breaks., if it ever does.
 
That wooden dowel number might work for a boom... when I repaired my Laser mast I wanted something a bit stronger, mainly because the stresses were greater upon the mast, with all the drive from the rig above transmitted right through that section. It'd be different for a boom end, ya might even use a wooden dowel inside and an aluminum sleeve of some sort on the outside, aye? Try the dowel first, and if it holds up, no worries... :cool:
 
for those who like resolution, Instead of breaking the joint and redoweling,, I cleaned the old repair up and wrapped the joint with fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Then I rotated the boom . It's not pretty, but been out in some heavy air and no problems [so far].
 
for those who like resolution, Instead of breaking the joint and redoweling,, I cleaned the old repair up and wrapped the joint with fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Then I rotated the boom . It's not pretty, but been out in some heavy air and no problems [so far].
This Minifish boom has held up for several years with the same method, and though it’s not especially pretty it is solid. Also, I know it’s ‘buyer beware,’ but I go by ‘honesty is the best policy.’ As a seller I would have definitely pointed out that seriously damaged spar!
 

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I’ve repaired many booms over the years (close to 40 now!), and if you’re concerned with aesthetics, you’ll want to make the repair on the inside, where it’s hidden, so that means an “internal splice” using an 12”-18” length of closet pole (adds weight), or even better, 1-1/4” schedule 40 pvc. Any slop in the fit can be addressed with some duct tape at either end and next to break (on both sides to keep it centered), then use your favorite epoxy, caulking or goop/glue to make it all permanent (spin the splice as you insert it to help spread the adhesive). I like West Systems G-Flex epoxy (the pre-thickened version that comes in 2 squeeze tubes), since it maintains some flexibility (hence the name).
Lay the boom on a flat surface and roll it to make sure it’s not tending to favor one side or the other (make sure it’s straight I’m saying), and let it cure.
For the outside, you can fill any remaining gaps in the break with G-Flex with a bit of gray pigment mixed in and the repair will be less noticeable, or spray paint it the original aluminum color if you like...
If you’re sailing in salt water, you’ll want to wrap some thin tape around the spar where the gooseneck will be to insulate between the dissimilar metals and prevent the galvanic corrosion (which likely caused the original problem). I like to use shrink wrap tape because it is so thin... and sticky! Bingo! The repair is hidden and stronger than before - no need to reverse the boom end-for-end...
 

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