What's new

Block suggestions for main sheet

wardie

Member
I have a bone stock 72 Fish and I am looking at the ratcheting block for the main sheet. Saw a couple of posts but not really sure what to do other than not want to put sheet under that little hook :(

Please help with suggestions on size , brand and best place to buy. Alan if you have good used I would be interested in that also. Can't wait for spring to sail her. Wardie
 

wardie

Member
APS has this one for $58 Nautec Ratchet Block

I am new to this stuff so I'm only slightly familiar with Ronstan and Harken. Is this a gooed entry level block that will perform adequately for entry level racing as well?
 

Wavedancer

Upside down?
Staff member
You can't go wrong with a ratchet block such as the
Harken 57 mm Carboratchet or the
Ronstan Orbit 55

$62-63 at IntensitySails.com or APS

I would go with the Harken since it's a US product and I have read that they stand behind their products.

All these blocks would serve you well IMHO, whether you are racing or cruising.
 
Last edited:

tag

my2fish
this is my preferred setup: a Harken 2135 (57mm carboratchet block) , with or without the Harken H150 cam cleat installed where the ol' hook is right now.
h2135.jpg

I didn't bother installing the cam cleat on my newer Sunfish, though, and find it works just fine without it.
h2135 part 2.jpg
cheers,
tag (my2fish)
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
I have a bone stock 72 Fish and I am looking at the ratcheting block for the main sheet. Saw a couple of posts but not really sure what to do other than not want to put sheet under that little hook :(
Since you intend only to replace or supplement the hook, a ratcheting block would be an expensive alternative to a non-ratcheting block. If you add the "stand-up spring", that replacement block becomes even more expensive.

As a favor to the lender of my borrowed Sunfish of last October, I'm repairing his cam-cleat and (missing) block with a new eyestrap and a spare, well-used—but otherwise excellent, Schaefer®non-ratcheting block.

(The U-shaped clip is in place to open enough space for S/S pop-rivets).
 

Attachments

tag

my2fish
while I agree the ratchet block can be expensive($50-$60 new), the stand up spring is typically less than $1... it doesn't add THAT much to the cost.
 
copied tag exactly with the configuation on both my fish (fishes?)

57mm carbo + cleat that you cant reach (appropriately) when you are hiked out.

have been toying with the idea of jam cleats on each side of the deck just aft of the daggerboard and out towards the edges, but they just arent necessary.

this is my preferred setup: a Harken 2135 (57mm carboratchet block) , with or without the Harken H150 cam cleat installed where the ol' hook is right now.
View attachment 13385

I didn't bother installing the cam cleat on my newer Sunfish, though, and find it works just fine without it.
View attachment 13386
cheers,
tag (my2fish)
 

Fred P

Member
Since you intend only to replace or supplement the hook, a ratcheting block would be an expensive alternative to a non-ratcheting block. If you add the "stand-up spring", that replacement block becomes even more expensive.

As a favor to the lender of my borrowed Sunfish of last October, I'm repairing his cam-cleat and (missing) block with a new eyestrap and a spare, well-used—but otherwise excellent, Schaefer®non-ratcheting block.

(The U-shaped clip is in place to open enough space for S/S pop-rivets).
The purpose of the ratcheting block is to provide resistance to the pull of the main sheet which is also the purpose of the hook. A non-ratcheting block will be the same as removing the hook and holding the sheet by hand only.

Fred
 

Merrimac

Member
I have a '76 fish and am wondering the best way to attach a block/cam cleat combo to the area mentioned above.

Advice?
 

kmac17

New Member
I'm about to make this very same change to a 76 as well.

I'll be using a ronstan 55 orbit ratchet with a rubber boot instead of the spring.

Mount the eye strap and cleat with screws, the largest washers that will fit on the back side and nylock nuts. Both should take #10 screws, but I like to have fittings in hand and then hit a local west marine for the exact SS screws, washers and nuts I need. The lip overhangs the cockpit so it's all accessible.

Cheers.
 

Wavedancer

Upside down?
Staff member
I just looked at my 2006 Sunfish. Vanguard fastened the eye strap with bolts and locknuts. But a washer can't hurt.
 
Top