Bailer question..

C

chrisfsi

New Member
Hi,

I have a bailer question I'd be interested to get feedback on. I've just replaced my bailer, but have found that the leading edge of the bailer protrudes about 1mm below the line of the hull. As there is only one screw in the middle of the assembly, tightening the screw seems to flex the bailer, and cause the leading edge to drop more. Having it less tightened causes a slight improvement but not enough to cause the unit to be flush.

The reason this is an issue is that we launch off a sandy/shingle beach, and dragging the boat can cause stones/sand to get wedged between the hull and the leading edge of the bailer. One time just before I launched last year I noticed that the leading edge of the bailer was protruding around 3/8" below the line of the hull due to stones getting trapped..

I know the ideal solution is to have a tame lauching party who help you lift the boat into/out of the water, and hold it while I take take the launch trolley up the beach, but I can't afford this every week!

Any suggestions? Or is this not something I should be worrying about? Is it legal to put a bit of tape over the front edge of the bailer? (Although I'm not sure how long the tape would last..)

Thanks..
 
It's not legal to put tape over the on top of the bailer , but clear packing tape will last all summer :)

The legal way is to put a bead of silicone adhesive on the inside perimeter of the bailer. I've had decent success then just laying the bailer in so that all edges are flush w/o the screw in place and letting the silicone cure. Then I put in the screw, not tightening it so much that it wants to try to flex the bailer.
 
Has your boat ever been painted? If so, then the recess in the hull into which the flat plate of your bailer sits might be smaller than it would be on a factory boat (by the thickness of the paint) and so the bailer doesn't go all the way in.

It's not just that the depth of the recess is smaller, it's also that the length and width are both shorter, which, given the beveled edge of the bailer plate, forces the bailer to stand a bit proud of the hull surface.

The flat plate of the bailer needs to fit into the recess on the hull. If it doesn't, you need to either make the bailer plate smaller (preserving the bevel), or grind out the excess paint and restore the hull recess to its proper size.

The latter is 100% legal because you are restoring the recess to factory dimensions. I don't know about the legality of the former.
 
I'm pretty sure it hasn't been painted. When you hold the bailer up to the recess by hand it fits fine, it's only when you are doing up the screw that it seems to pull it slightly out of alignment. In fact when you start doing up the screw it fits fine, it's only when you tighten it that it pulls out of line. Maybe I'm over tightening it...

49208 seems to have a good suggestion with using the silicone adhesive to fix into position, then just using the screw to make fully secure. Will try this and see how I get on.

Only drawback with this is that the rubber rings/springs seem to only last about 4-5 months before they break, so not sure how easy it would be to get the bailer off after it had been glued in....

Thanks Chris123 and 49208...
 
chrisfsi said:
Only drawback with this is that the rubber rings/springs seem to only last about 4-5 months before they break, so not sure how easy it would be to get the bailer off after it had been glued in....
Click to expand...

Use silicone sealant and not silicone adhesive and you should be all set. Especially don't use 5250, it sticks really well and really permanently.
 
chrisfsi said:
Only drawback with this is that the rubber rings/springs seem to only last about 4-5 months before they break, so not sure how easy it would be to get the bailer off after it had been glued in....
Click to expand...

Use silicone sealant and not silicone adhesive and you should be all set. Especially don't use 5250, it sticks really well and really permanently.
 
sometimes if you leave your bailer upside down on the dash of your car and let the sun heat it up it will sag down a bit and make that lip fit flush with the boat.
 
I agree and practice what 49208 does also. Go with the silicone sealant route.... Apply a thin bead silicone around the edge of the bailer. Press the bailer into it's proper (flush w/hull) place wipe the excess off and let cure. Then apply silicone into the screw hole and on the threads of the screw, screw in the screw until it just snugs up. and your good to go.
Fishingmickey
150087/181157
 
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