Backing plate under eyestraps that holds bridle

Bus Mosbacher

New Member
Broke my bridle on my 1989 Sunfish. To loosen eyestraps to remove broken bridle had to loosen screws. One screw, different from all the rest (probably the wrong size and forced in by the original owner) broke off in the hole. Tried to drill out the hole with no luck. Tried to drill a new hole alongside. No luck. It seems as though the backing plate is metal and was likely pre-threaded, which is why the three good screws are machine screws. I need some ideas. It appears I will likely have to cut a round hole in the deck to install an access port to remove the backing plate. I have heard that it will just fall if you take out both screws. Is it attached to the underside of the deck via fiberglass? I think I need to cut a hole to get in there to remove the existing plate and perhaps install a new one (teak?). Does anyone out there have any experience with this sort of job? I need some ideas. Thanks!
 
Hi, the inspection port is probably needed for access. A little-known fact is that on Stars and Stripes we used thick plastic cutting boards as backers. They might be good for your need too.
 
...oh...those 89s...;)

I like member Mixmkr's idea of cutting an access hole in the bottom. Drill a new hole for the eye strap (while the metal plate is supported), go up a size, and use nuts and bolts. Seal and sail. :)

:confused: Oops...Dennis came through while I was typing. Dennis has been a New Member since...um...Noah.

Yeah, cutting boards are easy backing plates. :cool:
 
You could investigate stainless thread cutting screws, aka self tapping, I read recently that is what was used on the rolled edge boats. I have never used them but there is a company called Fastenal that has tech support, you might call them as ask what screw would be good. I assume you drill an undersize pilot hole then install the screw.
Your boat is not that old so there is a real good chance the backer will not fall off, and that area usually has extra foam that holds the backers as well.

For folks with the older boats, only once have we found a good eyestrap backer that fell off, but we have found lots of remnants of rotted partial blocks. Usually the expanding foam holds them pretty good.

Cheers
Kent
 
For those not wanting to mess with eyestrap screws, and not racing, switch to a line bridle. Or cut the old bridle off and use a small shackle on each end of new wire bridle.

Trivia: What is the secondary purpose of the bridle?

Here is VIPER running around with the Geezer Rig and a line bridle. She seemed to do just fine.

 
For those not wanting to mess with eyestrap screws, and not racing, switch to a line bridle. Or cut the old bridle off and use a small shackle on each end of new wire bridle. Trivia: What is the secondary purpose of the bridle? Here is VIPER running around with the Geezer Rig and a line bridle. She seemed to do just fine.

Not sure, but the third loop limits the sail's clew from dragging in the water under strong wind conditions. (A capsizing deterrent). It also keeps the tiller from stressing the rudder's pintle and gudgeon at its (occasional) extreme positions.

☕️ Another thought, although access (and epoxy) is still needed:

Take an extended ¼-inch drill bit ($7), drill through the deck (at the old eyestrap location) and continue through the hull's bottom. Enlarge the bottom hole to ⅜-inch diameter. Feed a straightened coat hanger through the deck, and through the bottom hole. Glue a length of Dyneema line to the coat hanger, and pull it through the deck. Drill the same holes on the other side. Pull the Dyneema line through again. Tie a "stop-knot" at the bitter end, and pull it back 'til it stops. Ditto the other side.

Attach mainsheet. Check for length, cut, put Duck-Tape® over the holes and go sailing. ;)

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