Mine broke/ripped off. I have no inspection port. I see wood beneath, but can't really assess the condition. I really would like a place to lift on the boat that's sturdy. Guessing that the only solution is to cut a port in the bow and throughbolt the handle (or install a beefier cleat or something) but was hoping there's a more creative solution out there that I haven't thought of yet.
Attaching front handle?
- Thread starter Nola Mike
- Start date
Alan S. Glos
Well-Known Member
If the wood backer block is still there and if the wood under the screw holes is not rotted (frankly not likely) try to reattach the handle with longer screws with coarser threads. If it is rotted, fill the screw holes with the filler of your choice, MarineTex is best, then reposition the bow handle fore or aft about an inch or less and screw into non-rotted wood - maybe dip the screws into epoxy reasin for extra hold. If you are lucky, it will last for years and no inspection port needed. Hint: Drill a small pilot hole for the new screrws and sere if you are into sound, not rotted wood. If yes, proceed. If not, go for a 4" port and replace the rotted block - a scrap of teak is the best - rot resistent.
Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
mixmkr
Well-Known Member
I made a hole in the bottom, put in an aluminum backer plate and now I lift by the handle with zero fears of it pulling out. My preference was to patch a hole basically no one would ever see...including myself and my '69 fish still remains "port-less" on its' topsides.
Btw...did the same for the rest of the deck hardware. I epoxied the aluminum plate, should I for any reason I wanted to change the hardware which might have a new hole pattern, etc.
I believe the new fish have done away with wood and now using aluminum plates as well.
Btw...did the same for the rest of the deck hardware. I epoxied the aluminum plate, should I for any reason I wanted to change the hardware which might have a new hole pattern, etc.
I believe the new fish have done away with wood and now using aluminum plates as well.
You can straighter a paperclip and poe around inside the hole to see if there is solid wood around the old screw holes. While good screws and good wood will handle the weight, the question is, will the bow handle? The new ones are made out of crumbly metal and we see a lot of broken ones where the area around the screw hole is what failed.
Some folks use a Harken Hoister, I like that the straps can be placed in better locations than the bow and stern.
Some folks use a Harken Hoister, I like that the straps can be placed in better locations than the bow and stern.
You made a hole in the bottom of the hull so that you could get to the underside of the top? No thanks ...
Yeah, mine was a combination failure. I wonder if enlarging the holes a bit and threading some wire /strapping through them would work. It would put the stress on the fiberglass/backer board instead of relying on screw threads. Haven't seen the hoister I'll Google it
Edit: I need the handle to lift it over my sea wall and generally moving it around, didn't look like the hoister is what I need
That makes sense when you consider an inspection port (topside) won't help the fiberglass strength near the bow handle--where you want it. Would you rest a knee there? Also, there's not much room inside for both hands.
I've installed two new bow handles in recent years: both installed using a cut made through the side. The wood block was OK in the first--missing in the second. Both were bolted, with consideration made for future replacement.
White MarineTex was used to replace the cutouts, but I learned that MarineTex will eventually "yellow" from the sun.
On the second, I tried a replacement block of polypropylene cutting board, but the Nylocks I'd installed (recessed) needed more "bite" than today's cutting boards would allow.
I used to think mixmkr was crazy for his "go through the bottom" approach, but his approach leaves the deck pristine. He also saves the cutout and reinstalling it, which results in only a thin line of resin to gelcoat or paint. Who cares what the bottom looks like as long as it is smooth?
We had to drag it out of mixmkr, but he is a Pro who ran a marina and boatyard for decades, and now does high end work for marina customers, when not messing about on his beautiful Fish.
We had to drag it out of mixmkr, but he is a Pro who ran a marina and boatyard for decades, and now does high end work for marina customers, when not messing about on his beautiful Fish.
Nicholson58
I’d Rather Be Sailing My Tornado
My preference especially on older hulls is a port. Aluminum backer set in epoxy soaked mat.
Find a port made of ABS or anything but polyethylene or polypropylene. Glue it in place using Marine Tex so that the port is both integral with the hull and flat. (Not distorted). I don’t bother with screws. Fill the holes, sand flat and paint.
Find a port made of ABS or anything but polyethylene or polypropylene. Glue it in place using Marine Tex so that the port is both integral with the hull and flat. (Not distorted). I don’t bother with screws. Fill the holes, sand flat and paint.