Adding mast cleat (and other retrofits to an old fish)

K

kebwi

Member
I recently acquired a very old Sunfish:
  • Old style spoon rudder/tiller with old-style mount
  • Spoon daggerboard
  • No mast cleat
  • Halyard fairlead is a pulley, not a bullseye, that the halyard only fits through once, preventing the "double-pass-through" rigging method.
  • Absent the more modern mast cleat, I'm unsure how to rig to the deck cleat twice. Most riggings lock-off twice, first for the uphaul and again for the vang against the gooseneck, but I find the deck cleat to be too small to double up on. How was this *ever* done without a mast cleat? I don't get it. I took her out once so far and successfully double-cleat to the deck, but it looked really over-loaded. I was constantly worried it would fly off.
  • No mainsheet block or cam cleat, just the "hook".
  • No sail window (almost certainly not a racing sail, although I'm not sure I would know the difference at a glance, but I think all "colorful" sails are rec).
  • No outhaul or cunningham boom cleats.
  • No mainsheet boom retainers (I just about hanged myself tacking this weekend. HA!).
  • No mainsheet stern traveler, just a steel-cable 3-loop bridle and a clip for the sheet. Does the Sunfish sail better if the stern mainsheet connection can travel to the leeward gunnel or does it sail just as well permanently pulled to the center?
  • No deck eye just in front of the daggerboard (I'm unsure what it's used for anyway, but I don't have it). I bungied the daggerboard to the mast, but is there a better way?
  • It could use some fiberglass repair. I'm worried it might be taking on water from the bottom in some thin spots.
  • No hiking strap.
I bought parts for the mainsheet block (I didn't bother getting a cam cleat, I'm a pretty "engaged" sailer anyway, and I'm not confident I would let off in a gust fast enough otherwise). So, I'll add the block soon.

I'm not sure about adding a mast cleat. I bought a nylon cleat and I know about using SS screws or aluminum rivets. I can't decide between the two. What is the practical reality of SS and aluminum corroding? As with others, I'm astounding that mere machine screws are sufficient, even in shear. But are aluminum rivets really strong enough? Thoughts appreciated.

Should I put the rear mainsheet connection on a traveler or leave it on the center bridle?

I'm not keen on the rudder retrofit, but I suppose I might get around to it at some point. I didn't even realize the old rudder could flip up, but I think I understand how that mechanism and the associated wingnut work now. Now that I have discovered that feature, it's less clear what the newer rudder style offers.

I've researched how to add a window to a sail, and I suppose I might attempt it given that I don't feel like buying a new sail for $200-$300. It looks like the offbrand sails are closer to $130 and even include the racing style and windows. I suppose in that price range I might not bother with the project of adding a window to my current sail. I'd like to try out the racing sail anyway. It's too bad they don't come in nice colors though.

I made a very nifty PVC dolly in a couple of hours, very similar to numerous examples shown online. It worked incredibly well. What a simple and easy little hack. Why pay $300 for something like that. Sheesh!

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
No need for those newfangled modifications (Cunningham, vang, cleats on the mast and boom, etc.) on a classic boat.
If your (elephant ear) rudder works OK for you, there's no need to change to the newer style; a changeover would require putting a hole in the deck.
A block is nice, of course, and so are two hangers for the main sheet. Almost anything will do for the latter.
 
Thank you. I agree that my wishlist was on the comprehensive side. I don't consider every item a must-have. However, as per the thread subject, I am most concerned about the lack of a mast cleat (and relatedly the lack of a bullseye or larger pulley fairlead and the deck cleat that feels too small for a double tie-down).

How do you rig if you can only utilize the fairlead a single time (the small pulley I mentioned, that doesn't accept the halyard for a second pass)? And how do you confidently tie-down twice on the deck cleat, once for the uphaul and once for the vang?

I'll probably just use a velcro or duct-tape loop for the mainsheet retainer. I wasn't going to overthink that one too much.

Thanks.
 
Wavedancer said:
No need for those newfangled modifications (Cunningham, vang, cleats on the mast and boom, etc.) on a classic boat.
If your (elephant ear) rudder works OK for you, there's no need to change to the newer style; a changeover would require putting a hole in the deck.
A block is nice, of course, and so are two hangers for the main sheet. Almost anything will do for the latter.
Click to expand...

I'm a little surprised you consider the vang to be newfangled or optional. I thought pulling the gooseneck down was standard rigging. Am I using the terminology incorrectly? Does merely pulling the gooseneck down not qualify as a full vang (which I admit would traditionally involve an extra line attaching to the boom behind the mast). I wasn't implying adding full vang, I was just referring to the gooseneck pull-down. But I can't figure out how to confidently do that off a single deck cleat, much less with a fairlead that I can't pass the halyard through twice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top