2008 LP Racing Sunfish

Thread starter #1
Price $
3800
State
ALABAMA
This was an event boat sailed at the 2008 US Sailing C of Cs and O’Days.

Since then, it has been kept indoors and used randomly only at major USSCA regattas (less than once/year).

Boat is fast; it won 2009 & 2010 Midwinters, 2016 NAs, and just finished 3rd at NAs (3 points shy of winning) in Charleston SC. Additionally, Alonso Collantes used it to win 2018 Midwinters.

Comes with glass rudder, racing daggerboard, sail cover, bottom cover, Seitech dolly, and foil bag.
$3,800 OBO.
 

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Alan Glos

Active Member
#3
Hey, what part of Bama are you in? I'm in Bham. Do you happen to have any Sunfish parts besides the boat? Nice boat too!
What Sunfish parts are you looking for? I am pretty well stocked with used and NOS (new, old stock) Sunfish parts and gear, and I travel to
Birmingham each January to visit relatives and could deliver oversized items (spars, trim) at no extra charge. You can contact me directly at: aglos@colgate.edu

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
#4
Hi Alan, I just bought a model year 2000 Sunfish and I'm in the process of doing some minor restoration (mostly of the rigging), as the hull is in great shape but for a few gelcoat dings. I have a thread on it here: Thrift Store Sunfish!

It's missing several parts as indicated below:

  • Sail Tears/Rips - I ordered some sail patch tape from Amazon to fix these. Its what appears to be the original sail with the "North Sails" logo so I want to try to restore it as best I can.
  • Missing/broken sail clips - I ordered a pack of 30 from intensitysails.com
  • No daggerboard - (I'm looking for one, prefer composite white)
  • Rudder (wooden) in poor shape - There are no gouges but the wood needs refinishing badly. I'd like to ultimately replace with a composite white rudder and tiller.
  • No Trailer or Dolly - I'm considering dry docking the boat at the Birmingham Sailing Club on Logan Martin Lake. I'm also considering purchase of the Rollaboat Sunfish dolly.
  • Main sheet trim hardware - The boat only has the stock pulley hardware at the cockpit where the main sheet is trimmed. I've just ordered a Harken 57mm ratchet block to replace that but I'm also looking to add a cam cleat to this assembly or on the cockpit lip.
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Alan Glos

Active Member
#5
All noted. You got the Sunfish deal of the summer. Comments:

All the parts you have ordered are fine. I like the ratchet block/cockpit lip cleat rig and have it on my '85 "beach banger," see attached photo. I dub this the "Tag rig" after Tag here on the Forum.

I can sell you a very nice wood Barrington design daggerboard in like new condition for $90 + shipping (or I deliver in January) or, if you are not going to race in Sunfish Class sanctioned regattas, you can buy an aftermarket plastic board from Intensity. They also sell aftermarket rudder
blades to replace your beat-up wood blade. Avoid the no-brand aftermarket blades for sale - no warranty and, I have read, quality control issues.

I would recommend you not buy a daggerboard trunk dolly - too much stress on the hull and the wheels are too small for all but paved surfaces.
Consider a Dynamic dolly, just as good as a Seitech dolly, and a little less expensive. Kent Lewis (aka: Signal Charlie here on this Forum) is a dealer and can have one shipped to you.

Enjoy your fitting out project with this great find. I need to spend more time in thrift shops!

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 

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#7
I like the ratchet block/cockpit lip cleat rig and have it on my '85 "beach banger," see attached photo. I dub this the "Tag rig" after Tag here on the Forum.
That's what I'm thinking. For the cam cleat, I suppose you just drill pilot holes through the lip and use locking nuts on the other side?

I would recommend you not buy a daggerboard trunk dolly - too much stress on the hull and the wheels are too small for all but paved surfaces.
I've seen a few comments here to that effect, but also several folks that really like the dolly. I'm curious how the stress on the hull from mounting the dolly (the mounting/dismounting would seem to be the only high stress events - rolling it along would be next to nothing) compares to the stress on the daggerboard trunk from a close haul reach. It would seem to be not insignificant.

Enjoy your fitting out project with this great find. I need to spend more time in thrift shops!
Once you get started, its hard to stop. We have about 7 TS's within 15 minute drive. A few are what you might call "Mega Big Box" thrift stores. They have very good inventory turn and get some really interesting (and often valuable) items. I've found everything from Herman Miller Aeron chairs ($15 dollars and sold for $375) to $1500 fitness machines bought for less than $100 - not to mention this Sunfish find.

I mainly do fitness machines that I buy and sell on Facebook marketplace as a hobby. I'm a software engineer by trade and enjoy the ability to get out from behind the desk and interact with people. It has been a surprisingly rewarding and lucrative little side hustle.
 
#8
Also interested in what part of Alabama...?

Does this include spars/mast and sail? You mentioned the foil bag, but I don’t want to make assumptions.
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#9
Alan has more miles on a Sunfish than most of us have on our cars :) When you put a boat on a trunk dolly you put a point load of 130 pounds plus on one small area, especially the bottom part of the trunk. A vertical vector. The trunk is built to take horizontal loads, tied in to the keel and the deck, not to support the weight of the boat. And if you bounce it over anything you are just increasing the point load....

As for thrift shops, our 2003 flip came out of a junk shop in Foley, Alabama in 2013. Someone bought CIEL to keep at their beach house and used her a few times, just enough to bust the rudder. Not really their fault, the wood was very grainy. We paid $1200 for an immaculate boat and put a new ruder on her, sold for 2K. We put a Race sail on her for a bit and she moved along pretty good.


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#12
When you put a boat on a trunk dolly you put a point load of 130 pounds plus on one small area, especially the bottom part of the trunk. A vertical vector. The trunk is built to take horizontal loads, tied in to the keel and the deck, not to support the weight of the boat. And if you bounce it over anything you are just increasing the point load
Good points. I was under impression the Dolly’s arms were mainly holding the vertical point load and the trunk insert is just there to keep the boat from sliding off the back of the dolly when it’s being pulled.
 
#14
Eduardo Cordero is a great sailor. Of the many great sailors to ever sail in a Sunfish over the years, he's at, or very near, the top of that list so if he says things, listen. Also, Vestaviasott, there are a few Sunfish sailing on Wilson Lake at the Muscle Shoals Sailing Club. If you'd like to come up some weekend, I be happy to go out on the water with you and help you to get started. I'm retired; my schedule's very flexible; and, I love Sunfish!
 
#15
Also, Vestaviasott, there are a few Sunfish sailing on Wilson Lake at the Muscle Shoals Sailing Club. If you'd like to come up some weekend, I be happy to go out on the water with you and help you to get started. I'm retired; my schedule's very flexible; and, I love Sunfish!
Thanks! I'd love to do that. I still have a few more things to do before the boat is ready for water. I'm also looking for an affordable trailer (have alerts set up on CL for "Jet ski trailer").
 
#16
Just let me know when you're ready! Also, don't forget that jet ski trailers are designed for heavy jet skis and can do a lot of damage to a relatively lightweight sailboat. I recommend removing a trailer leaf or two from both sides and/or making sure that the Sunfish support frame has forgiving supports - such as "pool noodles." Many folks transport the 'Fish upside down. Will look forward to a visit from you at some time!
 
#18
Well, in the case of a Sunfish, the bottom is much more of a complicated shape whereas the top is, more or less, flat or gently domed towards the mid-line. I've always heard that a Sunfish is better transported upside down although I'm sure we have some competent structural engineers weigh in on this. My guess is that either way is fine but that it's easier to transport upside down because of the simple shape. In either case, the trailer supports need to have good contact with the surfaces and be well padded. In the long run, it's your choice but my days of carrying boats around on car-tops is long gone. I have an aluminum trailer which works well but is quite lightweight. If I had to do it over again, I go with a steel frame jet-ski trailer, too.
 
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