2-piece Jib Halyard

Thread starter #1
So...I FINALLY got around to installing my new 2-piece jib halyard that I ordered to the handbook's dimenions. And I've only got one thing to say...What The Heck Is Up With That!?!?!?

Maybe I have it installed wrong. I hope I do. Although I don't see how I could have. It seems to me that in order for this arrangement to work, the jib halyard would have to be about half as long as it is. But if it was, then you couldn't lower the halyard low enough to be able to attach it to the jib.

Anyone know what gives with this?

Unless someone can give me a good reason for having a two piece arrangement in the first place, I think I'm going to got to a single jib halyard and be done with it.

Also, for what it's worth...the length called out in the manual for the centerboard control line is about half of what it really needs to be.....

Not sure regarding the Halyard..I have a furler.

Iknow that there may be different layouts for the Mod 1, Mod 2 and Mod 3 Center board control lines. I have a 1996 Mod 3. From memory mine is no more than 6 or 7 feet long.

On the floor near the CB on the port side my control line runs parrallel to the CB, throug a padeye, a cleat, to a small block near the front hiking strap, through the D-ring on the CB and then to a pad eye next to the Starboard hiking strap.

I have seen some pictures of some models that have blocks and padeyes mounted to the front of the seats (where the back of your shin would be). These are on both port and starboard seats.

I assume that this would allow you to control the CB from wither side, but would require about double the length of line.

Another items that I do not have on my 14.2 but I have seen on some others are front hiking strap lifters. these attach on the front of the seat (same place as above), and close to the cuddy cabin. Apparently these make it easier to slip your feet under the straps by lifting them off of the floor.
Thread starter #3
Yeah, mine's a Mod 1. The centerboard line runs down both sides of the cockpit to just forward of the barney post. I should have measured mine before I ordered a replacement. A new pretty green one is on it's way!

I do have the hiking strap lifter as well.

Ed Jones

Secretary/Vice Commodore
Jib halyard

Centerboard control lines for Mod 1s and 2s are much longer than Mod 3s, because the block arrangement for the Mod 3 was greatly simplified.

As for the jib halyard, take the end of the line, run it through the center hole in one of the cleats on the mast, back up through the becket block in the center of the halyard, then down through the jam cleat on the mast. This permits a 2:1 mech advantage on adjusting the jib luff tension underway. The halyard has one line longer than the other. I can't remember which half connects to the head of the jib. Try it both ways.
Thread starter #5

That's what I tried. I actually had the manual laying on the bow of the boat as I tried it.

I couldn't tighten up the jib at all. The beckett block was all the way down to the lower cleat on the mast before the jib even got tight. The jib halyard would have to be a lot shorter to allow any take-up in the lower section of the two-piece halyard.

There must be something different on a Model 1 that doesn't allow the use of the 2-piece jib halyard. Unless Sailnet got the length reversed. I'll have to check that.

I have a Mod 1 and the 2-piece jib halyard does work for me with one modification. I have the 13' line attached to the jib. Since the distance from the jib block to the jam cleat is about 13' 6", I have no problem with the becket block hitting the cleat before the jib is fully tight. However, the jib halyard w/ block line listed at 14' 8" in the Manual was too short for me. Mine is about 24'. Ed, perhaps you can verify my rigging: The line starts at the becket block, goes down and through the hole in the cleat, back up and around the becket block, and through the jam cleat. Since the line has to go up and down three times, the highest the becket block can go is about 8' from the cleats or about 5' 6" from the jib block. So now the jib halyard goes up the 5'6" and back down 8' (since it's only 13' long) and that's about what I need to reach it to attach the jib. So, is my rigging wrong, or should the manual show a longer line? By the way, other than a lot of line to coil and stow, this setup works great!
Thread starter #7

The more I think about it...I think Sailnet got the two lengths reversed. That would be the only thing I can imagine would keep it from working. If the jib halyard is too long, it puts the beckett block too close to the cleat on the mast. 1'-8" probably would be enough to shorten up the halyard to allow me to tighten up the jib leech before I run out of take-up in the bottom section of the jib halyard.

I'll measure them tonight when I get home.


Ed Jones

Secretary/Vice Commodore
Jib halyard

Rudy - You got the becket block methodology down just fine. I'll let you guys sort out which end uses the 13' line and which uses the 14'8" line. Let me know when you get it figured out. In my case, the becket block ends up just a foot or so above the jam cleat, which is OK. I use a scale taped on the mast as a reference to see how tight the jib luff tension is -- and I use the center of the becket roller as my reference point.

By the way, all three versions of the Capri 14.2 use the same jib halyard set-up.
Dave, Ed,
I finaly see the light! Please disregard my previous comment about the second line needing to be 24'. I had rigged it to have lines around the becket block when it was at the top of the mast. That's not necessary! We had a C14 rigging and sailing clinic at Tempe Town Lake (AZ) last Saturday and Dennis Martinelli showed us how it works. The 13' line attaches to the jib, goes over the block on the mast and to the becket block. The 14' 8" line attaches to the bottom of the becket block. As you pull on this line to raise the jib, you bring down the becket block to where you can complete the rigging as described in my last posting. Boy, do I feel dumb!

By the way, we had 5 C14.2s out for the clinic and 2 new people happened to also come out with their 14.2, so we had a small fleet really moving in 10-12 mph winds.

The only thing I would add to the jib halyard set up is that instead of just going through the hole in the lower cleat, tie it there so that with no tension the sail is set loose for downwind performance. Then go back up to the becket and down to the jam cleat which then becomes your upwind adjustment.

That way, your crew can simply release all tension in one quick motion for downwind and then re-apply tension for upwind according to a scale like Ed uses.
Thread starter #11
Well, the mystery is solved....finally. I Finally got around to measuring the new halyards for my jib. Sailnet made the jib halyard 15'-0" long. That would explain why I didn't have any take-up in the two-piece system. Sailnet was goodly enough to pay for the return shipping, correct the length, and add a becket block that I forgot to tell them to add to the lower part of the jib halyard.

I just got them back today and am headed out to the garage to re-rig. I'm sure it will be fine now though.

Thanks for all of the info.

Ed Jones

Secretary/Vice Commodore
Becket Block + AZ Fleet

Jack - Great suggestion about the becket block. I'm gonna try it tomorrow. BTW, did you ever get the right centerboard?

Rudy - Sounds like the AZ fleet is doing great! How about sending a few boats over to SD for the Nats?