2 Block Cunningham Suggestions

L

laseradial174279

New Member
Should I get new blocks than the standard with only 2 pully system?

EX: down up down through blocks..

Anna Tunnecliffe told me do this, as did Brad funk But i'm unsure which blocks to use....

Also are new traveler blocks good?/worth it
 
laseradial174279 said:
Should I get new blocks than the standard with only 2 pully system?

EX: down up down through blocks..

Anna Tunnecliffe told me do this, as did Brad funk But i'm unsure which blocks to use....

Also are new traveler blocks good?/worth it
Click to expand...

Use micro air blocks and racing lines, There are many combinations you can use, you'll probably want the two double beckets to take advantage of the max amount of purchase you can.

The new traveler/boom blocks are worth it because they have ball bearings and make sheeting easier/smoother. Also the traveler block now comes as one block so you don't need to tape it, put a spring or rig any other contraption to keep it together. I don't have them yet, but I have tried them and there is a difference so I plan on upgrading soon.
 
how does everyone like the new blocks? i dont think they are worth the money, but i have them ready to install. just curious how well the are working
 
132711 said:
how does everyone like the new blocks? i dont think they are worth the money, but i have them ready to install. just curious how well the are working
Click to expand...

Definitely worth the money. Makes it really easy to let the mainsheet out rounding marks. They don't show as much wear as the others and you don't have to go through all the taping and stuff for the traveler block.
 
Eric_R said:
Definitely worth the money. Makes it really easy to let the mainsheet out rounding marks. They don't show as much wear as the others and you don't have to go through all the taping and stuff for the traveler block.
Click to expand...

sounds great, but to be honest with you, i cant see how they would flow that much smoother to make a difference. And I taped my hooks up with gorilla tape, and have never had a problem. Maybe i am just a little pessamistic (alot), but still the improvements do not seem that great.
 
132711 said:
sounds great, but to be honest with you, i cant see how they would flow that much smoother to make a difference. And I taped my hooks up with gorilla tape, and have never had a problem. Maybe i am just a little pessamistic (alot), but still the improvements do not seem that great.
Click to expand...

with ball bearings vs no ball bearings, there is a huge difference. I noticed it the second I let the mainsheet out going downwind.

go find a local boat that has a set and give it a try.
 
i have the set but i have two problems
1. boat tucked away in garage
2. blocks not attached
3. its REALLY cold water out there!:)

oh, i cant wait till spring
 
laserxd said:
Use micro air blocks and racing lines, ...
The new traveler/boom blocks are worth ....
Click to expand...

Correct. For the Cunningham use a "1:6 ratio", higher ratio than 1:6 means more friction in the system and more line to pull. Only beginners use 1:10 ratio. So, a simple 2 block control system for the Cunningham makes sense.
"Down up down" for the second control line is correct, f.e. as shown on my handmade sketch below. (red: diameter 3 mm, Samson Spectron; green: 4mm, dyneema)

I found out, even a Cunningham control system of 1:4 ratio with only one control line works decent up to force 4 (independent, if you have the xd kit plates on the deck or not, as you see on my photo).

Have Fun
LooserLu
 

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Re: 2 Block Cunningham Suggestions, Trav Blocks

The new traveler blocks are definitely worth it. The biggest advantage is that the mainsheet goes out much quicker during the windward mark rounding, it feels like an entirely different boat off the wind in lighter air, you can play the main better and get better feel of pressure on the sheet. I would never go back to the old blocks.

As far as cunningham purchase, when you get older, you will learn the value of more purchase. Back in 1978 I used to put my feet against the front of the cockpit and pull with all my strength to set the cunningham in heavy air. When I started sailing lasers again about 10 years ago, I tried the same and crushed a nerve in my hand. More purchase lets you adjust the cunningham (and outhaul) fully hiked from the windward rail in heavy air. I go for the legal max on mechanical advantage on both cunningham and outhaul.

I misplaced my cunningham blocks and jury rigged less purchase for one regatta and regretted the difference.

The standard upgrade package doesn't have enough mechanical advantage in my opinion.
 
LooserLu said:
Correct. For the Cunningham use a "1:6 ratio", higher ratio than 1:6 means more friction in the system and more line to pull. Only beginners use 1:10 ratio. So, a simple 2 block control system for the Cunningham makes sense.
"Down up down" for the second control line is correct, f.e. as shown on my handmade sketch below. (red: diameter 3 mm, Samson Spectron; green: 4mm, dyneema)

I found out, even a Cunningham control system of 1:4 ratio with only one control line works decent up to force 4 (independent, if you have the xd kit plates on the deck or not, as you see on my photo).

Have Fun
LooserLu
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I am currently using but I find that when I sail the 8.1 this system just does not have the required grunt so I am going to move the single block and beckett to the bottom and put a double block at the top. This is how I have rigged the club boats and it seems to work pretty well. That and now the club boats have XD kickers they are being used an awful lot!
 
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