1982 Laser

flubber03

New Member
hey, I am very happy I just bought a Laser after 22 years.
I used to sail regattas and for many reasons we couldnt afford anymore the boats and the club.
I was 15....now I am 37 and I saw in a website a 1982 laser for USD800...standard rigging. I checked the hull and its firm....no soft places... so I bought it.
I believe there is a lick from the top...so I will rescrew everything. Should I use silicon?
Also the lines and blocks are not only old but everything looks a bit improvised.
I dont want to compete... just have fun... but some people in the club were very positive abt it... others made comments like "you cannot sail with that, you have to change everything".
That made me sad... but off course I want to upgrade somethings.... I know laser is a conpetition boat and competition oriented.....anyway... guess I am just looking for some support.
The little laser sails nicely. In the picture I couldnt figure out the lines I had so I know the cuningghan is incorrect...as the outhull. Today I will rigg it like in the 90s... because it looks like what I have is from those times....
The sails and number are original... they are even stamped with the 1980 Swiss Championship.... I dont think was a bad deal.... Need to make some fixing though... what do you think?
 

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I think you're doing alright :D

Your boat looks very fresh for its age! The sail number indicates that it was built in 1978. Is the number under the bow fitting the same? (If not, the number on the hull is the "real" one.) Was it built in Switzerland? A sticker or plaque on the aft wall of the cockpit should say this.

Of course you can use silicone for the screw holes, but if the boat really leaks, it's much more likely through the bailer, centreboard case, or the mast step. Test those places first.

Concerning the equipment, of course you don't have to change "everything". But a few small changes should make the boat easier and more fun to sail. Things that cost (next to) nothing:
  • outhaul: cleat the outhaul on the boom cleat (and lead the cunningham to the deck cleat). Make a double purchase at the clew, by tying the outhaul line to the fairlead instead of the sail. Lead the tail through the block at the gooseneck. Tie the clew tight to the boom (you may need a longer line for that).
  • sheet: thread it through the boom block becket the other way (aft to forward).
  • traveller: wrap lots of electrical tape around the hooks of the traveller blocks so they stay "straight". Tie the traveller line as tight as you can to make it easier to adjust; you want the "triangle" to be as small as possible.
Stuff that may cost something (but less than 100 francs!):
  • the sheet block in the cockpit looks... strange. Can you post a close-up picture of it? That is something you may want to change to a "normal" ratchet block.
  • how long is your tiller extension? If it's less than 107 cm (that's a standard length), you may want to switch to a longer one.
  • the vang really needs a a swivel between the cleat block and the mast to make it adjustable on the water.
We can talk about new lines and extra purchase on the systems later, if you want...

Beautiful sailing waters, by the way :)

_
 
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others made comments like "you cannot sail with that, you have to change everything".
Those who said that to you are complete morons, I would never listen to any of them ever again.

Congratulations on the new boat (with dolly it looks like), it looks stunning for its age, and you will have a blast sailing it. If what LaLi said is confusing, there are plenty of videos online about rigging, and there are plenty of chandleries that sell Laser specific equipment and accessories in the Europe. Shop around for the best price. I am not paid by anyone, but Southeast Sailboats in the UK has great prices. Oh what I would give to be able to sail on a clear Swiss lake like that! In your pic on the water, I can see the daggerboard and the entire length of the rudder! Best of luck, ask the forum questions, post pics. Prost!
 

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