1963 Alcort Wooden Sunfish CHIP Restoration

signal charlie

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Thread starter #22
Primed the cockpit, easier to paint it now, before the bottom goes on.

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Repaired the stem with THIXO.

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Repaired errant cuts with THIXO, the cockpit bulkheads need to be watertight. We found out that there are High Thrust caulk guns recently, 18:1 ratio makes it a breeze to dispense thick materials. Bought our from Jamestown Distributors.

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Made paper patterns for the fore and aft bottom panels.

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signal charlie

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Thread starter #23
Marked the patterns with the stringer locations.

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Hoping to use a good section of the old hull for the floorboards.

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Brushed on a coat of TotalBoat WetEdge Oyster White. We're hoping it's close enough to the BluGlo White that we don't have to order more paint.

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L&VW

Well-Known Member
#24
Just like the Minimax and Minimost, designed to take advantage
of 4 x 8 plywood sheets. Anyone care to list any
additional '4 X 8' boats kits? I believe the original glue that
was used at the time was powered Weldwood.

These things would be perfect for a laser cut kit if you had
the hardware on hand. Thanks to the 2 inch mast hole they
will never go metric
.
Two inches works out to 50mm. (Close enough). ;)

I built two Minimax hydroplanes, when I should have been studying in High School. :oops: In the second example, I had designed new added features that mimicked a "tunnel-hull" design—whose designs were coming out about the same time. :)

Instead of ending the two sponsons just ahead of the driver, if I had continued the sponsons forward, I'd have had the great "lift" that made tunnel-hulls famous. (Or infamous for flipping over backwards) :eek:. Instead, I designed insufficient "down-vents" that would occasionally reverse direction and spray a fine mist across my glasses. :confused:

Weldwood powder is described as a "resorcinol glue"—and is still being sold.

Invented in the UK, resorcinol glue was used to build the molded-plywood "Mosquito medium bomber" in WWII—nicknamed "the balsa bomber".

As for the use of 4'x8' plywood sheets, I still have Mechanix Illustrated (paper) plans for a "Mustang" 10-foot runabout. Could that be an Evinrude 3.3-HP outboard? :confused:

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signal charlie

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Staff member
Thread starter #25
Fastening the panels with THIXO and silicone bronze ring shank nails.

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SIlicone bronze screws for the keel strip.

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Trimmed the bottom panels.

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Filled the grain and screw holes, covered nail holes with TotalFair.

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Ready for sanding.

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L&VW

Well-Known Member
#26
Repaired errant cuts with THIXO, the cockpit bulkheads need to be watertight. We found out that there are High Thrust caulk guns recently, 18:1 ratio makes it a breeze to dispense thick materials. Bought our from Jamestown Distributors.
West© Systems makes a 6-TEN© epoxy in a 10-oz tube (which sounds similar to THIXO©), available at West Marine© stores. Of the clever 2-part mixing devices that attach to the 10-oz tubes, one comes with it, and are available separately, too.

If you're in real hurry, $100 dispensers are available that are air-powered. Caulking Guns

.
 

signal charlie

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Thread starter #27
As for material dispensers, I've seen Snake Mountain Boatworks use the air gun to dispense 5200. I can't imagine what the material cost is to use the many tubes necessary for a No Soak bottom on a Chris Craft or Century restoration. It takes about one tube of THIXO or Pettit Flexpoxy for each one of the 4 panels on a Sunfish bottom, we put a double bead on the side plank edge and a double bead on the panel, plus the material needed for the keel strip and bulkheads.

The Flexpoxy we have bought from West Marine or Jamestown Distributors, it runs several dollars more at WM. JD also carries the six10 also, not sure about the gflex. As for cost, the THIXO is the lowest cost, and TotalBoat ships free Domestic US. There might be a small HazMat fee added, but that is the same for all of those products. We order enough stuff from JD that we pay $50 for the VIP membership each year, and get free shipping. We also are Ambassadors for the TotalBoat line, and get free stuff and a discount. If anyone wants to try the TotalBoat products, send us a private message and we can pass along our 20% discount code.

Looking at the pictures above of a green hull reminded me, we have used Pettit EZFair in the past, it mixes up light gray vs green, and covered just a bit easier with follow on painting in mind. If the next thing going on is primer it really doesn't mater the color of the fairing compound. It also came in the 2 part caulk tubes, which were GREAT for small projects, dispense a small amount without messy stir sticks, then put the cap back on. It stores well. We used quite a few tubes fairing the seams on the 1880s rowboat BARBASHELA's restoration, since it is a softer fairing material we thought it was a good substitute for seam compound and much easier to work with.

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signal charlie

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Thread starter #28
Sanded with 40 grit, 2 coats TotalBoat Topside Primer. First coats of TotalBoat Wet Edge BluGlo White and Interlux Brightside Largo Blue, thinned 10 percent and brushed on.

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signal charlie

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Thread starter #32
Yep, 40 grit. The Lowes Gator paper I buy is economy grade, it wears out quick to 200 grit. For final finishing I'll got to 120 with just enough pressure to give the previous coat some tooth.
 

signal charlie

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Thread starter #33
We have day sailed Brightside, EZPoxy, Rustoleum Topsides and WetEdge for several hours at a time and had no issues. Brightsides stayed in the water for a week on our Day Sailer.

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mixmkr

Active Member
#34
and do you have carpet on trailer bunks or is the bottom of the boat able to stay dry, once out of the water? I have another day sailor that I'd like to paint...with wrap around stripes going underwater...similar to what you've done...and Brightside has been an inexpensive solution for me. But I've read of the paint blistering...especially on trailer bunks.
 

signal charlie

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Thread starter #35
Carpet on bunks, yes. Boat also lives on a strap lift part of the year. No blistering. The last coat of Brightside lasted 19 years in the Florida sun.

From what I know blistering would be a product of incompatible primer/fairing compound/paint, important to stay with the same product family. Or improper prep, something like using bondo vs a marine grade fairing compound. IOW, the bunk didn't cause the issue, the skimpy prep work did.

Here she is before paint touchup 2019.

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After paint.

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mixmkr

Active Member
#36
Great...ive got a couple of colors of brightside laying around. Should there be an issue...no biggie. Working on boats for 35 yrs or so... I've only used bottom paint, VC offshore or epoxy or resin with a gelcoat exterior. Just wanted to get "fancy" with a fun day sailor/racer
 

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signal charlie

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Thread starter #38
Primed with TotalBoat Topside Primer, mixed gray and white together because that's what I had. Sanded lightly with 120. Laid out the stripes and swoosh.

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TotalBoat Halcyon for the daggerboard. Love the Pour Pack! And no sanding between coats. Clean up with soap and water. I only put on a couple of coats so I don't know how it looks if you are one of the 6-8 coat people.

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Two coats of Interlux Brightside Largo Blue and TotalBoat WetEdge BluGlo White. I laid down one thinned coat with a brush then hot coated the second coat, filling grain along the way. I had planned to put a skim coat of fairing over the entire deck but ended up just filling screw and nail holes instead, and a few deep gouges, that way we can still enjoy the wood grain pattern up close.

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signal charlie

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Thread starter #40
Fit the rudder assembly to the hull, had to trim the last inch or so of the keel strip so that the latch plate fits over it.


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Rudder and tiller with 2 coats of TotalBoat Halcyon Rugged Amber Gloss Varnish. The Pour Pack is very handy, and the soap and water cleanup was nice. We have been getting soft satin finishes with a couple of coats, and have not put on a lot of coats to build layers to see if it gets a deep gloss like Epifanes or Pettit, so not sure how it will perform if you want a deep gloss. Recoat in one hour, no sanding between coats.

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Fitting the rub strip. Screw heads will be puttied over and it will be painted to match.

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The "Moaning Chair" is described by Howard Chappelle as an essential tool to have, the place where you sit and ponder what you have either just screwed up or are about to screw up with all of your other tools. Moaning chairs come in all shapes and sizes and can be found next to favorite beverages. Moaning chairs should be available for all of the "usual visitors" as well so they can point out any mistakes the builder might have missed.


We always have 2 projects going, a primary boat and we have what we call a moaning chair "boat", the boat we work on while we contemplate issues with the first boat or just take a break from it for a bit to appreciate it. Our Moaning Chair boat today was SCOUT, our 1960s Grumman 17 double ended canoe. We have toyed with the idea of a sail rig for a while, and pulled together some bits for a 41 sf gaff rig. Old mast that Alan brought us, it is a bit longer than a Sunfish mast so not sure what it goes to. Then we went to Lowes for closet rods for boom and gaff, some 1x8 pine for a mast step, painter's drop cloth and some clear RustOleum to seal up the cloth weave. The Grumman is nice because it already has fittings in the bilge for a gunter rig and sheet block, plus predrilled holes in the gunwale for a thwart, that took the guesswork out of where to put the rig. We went simple with control boards, she will steer with the paddle, like the Seminoles used to do.

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Got enough bits together for a test sail to check balance and controllability.

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