1963 Alcort Wooden Sunfish CHIP Restoration

signal charlie

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Staff member
Thread starter #3
We'll have fun and get her back on the water. Yes, we published The Sunfish Owners Manual in 2013, thanks for the feedback and glad you are enjoying it. Some of the contrasts are startling, and there is satisfaction in putting these 3D puzzles back together.

Just had our 1953 wooden Sunfish and 1950s Standard Sailfish out a few days ago.







Our buddy Alan cartopped the Sailfish down to us.







Our goal is to publish The Alcort Restoration Manual in 2018 with information on how to restore these classics. So stay tuned!

Cheers
Kent and Audrey
 

signal charlie

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Thread starter #4
Picked up the 1/4 inch marine grade plywood for the bottom and the THIXO arrived. No excuses now, except I want frame patterns first.

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Pulled a stem pattern too.

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#9
I am sure you are keeping track.....it would be nice, when you are done, to let us know how much time you spent, and how much $$ in materials. Interesting to then compare it to the cost of buying a new one way back.

Thanks for all the cool updates......

Mike
 

signal charlie

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Thread starter #10
Well you can help out by adding up the price of all of the hardware, bow handle, rudder fittings, blades, sail, spars etc. I did a few years ago and it was close to $2500, without bare hull, before shipping. 5 sheets of marine ply, fasteners, epoxy, primer, paint....

Time spent I can't figure out, because I tend to do things 3 times to get it mostly right once. It would not be a hard boat to build, the deck is flat and other curves are not too fancy, defined by the frames. What I think will take the most time is building daggerboard trunk, mast step and stem. ANd beveling the keel and chine.

The Stations numbers are inches back from the bow. Traced and cut the transom and frame just forward of it. Transom is 16 inches wide.

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And then there is time spent watching this...

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#11
So probably $3,500 today plus another $1,500 in plywood, paint, glue etc......

More or less the same price (not including labor!), that you'd pay for a new boat today. The new boat's easier to maintain, care for and takes the abuse better, your boat looks a lot cooler!

And you can't calculate the cost/price/value of that sunset!!!!!

Thanks

Mike
 

signal charlie

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Staff member
Thread starter #12
Let's see, marine grade doug fir ply running $75 a sheet x 5 = 375
16 foot blank Planks, longerons, stem, transom, trunk, step. SYP or oak or cypress = 125
Other various bits = 100
THIXO 8 tubes x 25 = 200
Primer = 75
Paint = 75

so approaching $1000 plus shipping, brushes, rollers etc...$1500 is a good guess.

Pulled 2 more patterns today from the cockpit bulkheads. Compared the paper-tape-stick pattern to the table of offsets, they matched up pretty well. The frames don't touch, the cleats that attach the longerons, sides and stringers are really what is used to fair the lines. That and beveling.

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Time to cut these out, 1 to go.

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signal charlie

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Staff member
Thread starter #16
8 tubes of THIXO would be about right for a new build, 3+ for deck seam, 3+ for bottom seam and leftovers for trunk, step and rub rail. It took 4 tubes to do the bottom seam, rub rail, toe rail, inner step and inner trunk on the Super Sailfish. I put a double bead on the side plank and a double bead on the plywood panel, by my math there is about 30+ feet of seam on the top and another 30 feet on the bottom seam. The other option is to use a different type of waterproof adhesive, or mix everything up. I didn't want to spend that long mixing epoxy and adding structural filler batch by batch.

In other news I bought a different caulk gun, it is a heavy duty gun with an 18:1 ratio that is supposed to make it easier to dispense high viscosity materials. Haven't validated that claim yet, it was recommended by Andy at Boatworks today, he has been using a lot of THIXO. We'll let you know if it works as advertised.
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#17
I've built many wooden airplane models—and three wooden powerboats—but had used "Weldwood" resorcinol glue. 'Superior to epoxy in many ways, but is not a gap filler.

On fiberglass, I'm currently using a West System epoxy adhesive, sold as "Six-10". Although I have chosen not to use it yet, the tube comes with a plastic screw-on "mixer". (One use throw-away).
 

signal charlie

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Staff member
Thread starter #18
Flipped her over to get measurements, profile and breadths.

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Something amiss here, what is it?

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It's fun how she is just under 4 feet wide, 2 sheets of plywood for the deck.

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1/4 inch A/B marine grade Doug Fir. Stacked the sheets and cut 2 panels at a time.

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Barrier coat for the inner face.

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Webfoot1

Active Member
#20
Just like the Minimax and Minimost, designed to take advantage
of 4 x 8 plywood sheets. Anyone care to list any
additional '4 X 8' boats kits? I believe the original glue that
was used at the time was powered Weldwood.

These things would be perfect for a laser cut kit if you had
the hardware on hand. Thanks to the 2 inch mast hole they
will never go metric.
 
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