Search results

Forgot about the hiking strap install.

Dad enjoying his restored Sunfish for the first time. We sailed almost twelve miles. Great day.

The finished project. We capped it off with a new replica FRP daggerboard from Intensity to replace the wood daggerboard that wasn't correctly sized and in bad shape.

Re-painting the original brown and orange stripes and splash guard.

After painting with four coats of VC Performance Epoxy and wet sanding with 320 grit, 400 and 800. We kept on with 1000, 1500 and finished with 2000. This is the hardest coating I've ever dealt with that wasn't DLC or Kashima.

These are after a ton of epoxy and gelcoat work was finished. I then sanded the entire hull with 80 grit and cleaned with Interlux Fiberglass Wash to remove all wax from the gelcoat process. I reconstructed and reshaped the ends of the splash guard. Had to seal the joint between the cockpit...

My father bought a 1980 Sunfish without really doing his homework. Right off the bat, we had to order a new rudder assembly as the previous owner had removed the original gudgeon bracket and mounted a homemade adapter for a flimsy rudder I've never seen before. We also upgraded all the lines...

Try the aDP Ultimate Rivets. See my post on them here: http://sailingforums.com/threads/rivet-question.23282/#post-109930 They're holding up great so far.

Thanks for a good laugh!

Laser FAQ: http://sailingforums.com/threads/faq-about-lasers-please-read-before-posting.16355/ Buyers Guide is first on the list. Very helpful.

Turns out, it just needed a little more influence. I laid down some bench cookies to keep the daggerboard steady and got out the 3 lb. hammer. Worked like a charm and I didn't have to hit it hard at all. Just needed the extra impact over the claw hammer and it popped loose perfectly.

I'm trying to remove my daggerboard stop to do some repairs. I tried using a socket extension for a 1/4" drive and a hammer but, I'm afraid to hit it much harder. Any tips or advice? Can it be re-used once apart?

I am considering the purchase of an Acme Black Diamond tiller and Fatso Jr. extension. I was trying to go back to their site to review the directions for replacing the universal (I like to know what I'm getting into before I'm in it...) and can't get my old bookmarks to load. I even tried typing...

Last pic.

My remaining challenges: - Find a roller that will better guide the center beam of the dolly. The first time I tested it, the beam of the dolly rolled off onto the trailer and bent as the weight of the boat came down on it. - Re-wire the lights Thanks to all those who previously posted info...

Here's the final product. Had to move the trailer bow support rearward to meet the bow support of the dolly. Didn't seem to adversely affect tongue weight. I used a Trailer Axle Plate kit from eBay to secure the front channel. The kit contained: (4) 2 1/16" wide X 5 1/4" long X 1/2" diameter...

Here's a few pics of the initial concept testing and fitting. I didn't have the tools to cut down a 4x4 (at least not w/ clean edges) for the center of the front channel. Luckily, a nice Lowe's Hardware lumber employee came up w/ the great idea of using a pallet strap block. It measured 40" L...

There are a few examples of this here already. Just figured I'd offer my interpretation of a trailer/dolly combo. Maybe this will help someone, some day. I'll start w/ pics of the trailer as I purchased it w/ the boat. I had already removed the rear bunk that was bolted to the back of the...

Thanks Tag! I've used this several times over the years. The next step would have been to heat the insert w/ a heat gun or soldering iron, then put the ice back on the screw.

This is a 1980 model. I just measured the board and I'm now thinking it was a home-made daggerboard... It's too thin, too short (front to back @ the top and bottom) and a little too long. Might just see if Dad wants to pony up for a replica blade from Intensity. Would likely help the boat...