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"Straight" epoxy? No catalyst/hardener? :confused: Epoxy straight-up? :eek:

2). Lay the boom to the port side of the mast. (Port side is left when looking at the bow). :oops: Isn't it the "other" left? :confused: Port side is right when looking from the bow... Port side is left when looking from the stern...

I've been using the two interchangably in wood repairs. (Like repairing splits in wood rudders and daggerboards). Now I'm thinking that's not such a good idea! :(

We're supposed to sail our Sunfish flat... ;)

Expect to die! :eek:

The Allen key approach is good for boats with "cores" made of balsa wood, nomex, Styrofoam, etc., but the Styrofoam in older Sunfish isn't structural in the same sense. (Not by a 1/2-inch). There's plenty of clearance for riv-nuts as you intend to afix them, but assure clearance under the...

Aluminum, as a metal, is subject to "metal-fatigue". Any flexing especially affects aluminum. Take a metal coat hanger, bend it back and forth, then it will heat up and fracture. That's "fatigue" in a ferrous metal. The "fix" is to learn aluminum welding --which is called MIG welding...

With the $5500 package, you'd get your dolly, decent sails, and can recoup some expense by selling one trailer. If $5500 is the "going rate", re-sale shouldn't be a problem. Stateside purchases risk having fiberglass repairs ahead, (although easy and fun) sound like some "work" you'd like...

That might work, but there's not much room between the big Styrofoam blocks and the end-three rivets in the underside of the deck. :oops: Now I see you mean to attach the assembly ON TOP of the deck :rolleyes: . I'd measure twice, do one side then the other, but that's a great suggestion IMHO...

"Regular" aluminum pop-rivets are easy to drill out, so use drill bits to determine the correct size to reinforce/expand the existing (three?) riv-nuts. If that doesn't work, drill out the "try" pop-rivet(s), clamp or weight the splashguard, apply a minimal layer of petroleum jelly underneath...

As dry as possible. I'd use a hair dryer (if you have electricity there). Canvas or leather gloves will reduce the heat experienced. :eek: Does anyone recognize the old patching material as Bondo? (They make a marine filler). Just how reactive/friendly Bondo is to epoxy (or polyester) resin is...

Good idea! :) I'd suggest a cardboard model to make sure the rudder swings through a full/adequate turn. (Left/Right). Maybe loçate a narrow stainless "U" bolt with long legs that can be bent/hammered to a right angle. (Put nuts on it, clamp in a vise, and bend to fit). Saving in welding...

No one can weld it because the casting is made of zinc and not aluminum? Aluminum is easily heliarced, but may cost $75--UP! Thinking back, this may be a problem with Scorpions. Sunfish to the rescue! :cool: https://sailingforums.com/threads/old-vs-new-rudder-question.30959/#post-142097 Can...

1) No advantage? There's one moored Sunfish I see every summer, with the sail fully raised! :eek: Swim out to the mooring, release the mooring buoy, climb aboard--and go sailing. :) 'Course, it helps if you're in a protected cove. :rolleyes: 2) You could use the loose end of the halyard...

1) Your bubble test will be better with the Sunfish on its edge. 2) Find a 12- or 10-inch board and glue (or epoxy) sheets of 45-grit sandpaper to both sides. Add blister-packaging to raise the sandpaper to fit the trunk almost snugly. Have a friend operate the other end and "saw the high...

https://sailingforums.com/threads/hydra-sail-sailboat-anyone-know.14952/

"Swan" didn't work. Could this boat already have been discussed here--and you bought it? Meant for sailing in heavy surf? That the builder moved the halyard directly behind mast, and relocated the mainsheet block aft tells me this has a tall rig or a lot of sail area. That the rear deck is...

"Los Angeles" and "Swan" are is more clues to these mysterious boats. There have been two others mentioned here in the last two years. I'll have to put on my thinking cap to recall what guesses to run here at "Search".

Sometimes, when a good sanding takes off the oxidized surface, there's beautiful wood underneath. Varnish will bring out the grain. I've used epoxy, followed by varnish. Untreated, someone at eBay (or here) will be glad to have them.

Lee Montes finds a cutaway bow. The locations, toughness, and structure of supportive Styrofoam are shown.