Search results

Sorry to confuse anyone. I type cunningham, but I was referring to the "vang", which you tie with the tail of the halyard to hold the boom down. The cunningham is rigged along the luff, leading edge along the top (gaff) boom, of the sail. It requires a 2nd grommet and a cleat on the boom. Kevin.

If you are racing, then you want to have a few key grommets tied on instead of using sail rings. Looser at the halyard location, the gooseneck. Tied at the head, tack and clew to minimize stretch/give. I also think ties will slide under load better than the sail rings. You can McLube the...

Get some spectra 12-strand line for your halyard and it will slip through the top cap with no issues. You can go as small as you want (7/64" or 1/8"), but bigger (3/16") is easier on the hands. I'd also recommend a horn cleat on the mast, cheap and can be screwed to the mast. Raise the sail...

Sorry, iPhone typing while being too tired didn't work out so well. Aft block. 126" up is a pretty GOOD position. This is as far aft as you can go on the boom without interfering with the sail tie when the outhaul is at maximum easy. Since there is 4+ inches of range in the outhaul, to go on...

Because the gooseneck can be adjusted. And because adjusting it is desirable to effect the balance of the boat for different conditions and crew weight. There is no "exact point" where the blocks are directly over the bridle or the rachet block or hook (depending on what you have installed)...

Measure from the forward end of the spar, not the end cap. Forward block at 62", aft block at 126". 126" for the aft block is a pretty position. With a loose outhaul a sail grommet will be right over the eye strap rivet. White electrical tape one that is prudent. 62" for the forward block...

The splash guard (coming) serves a structural purpose to help support the curvature for the deck. I'd recommend against removing it. It can get cosy with 2 aboard. Especially on a light wind day when you want your weight forward. Kevin.

Setting up Tim to go sailing this spring.

Jim, Technically, I think both metals would work fine for this process. I have personal experience with stainless. It's a harder alloy then bronze. It has also generally replaced bronze as a go to corrosion resistant metal in most things boat, in particular 18-8 or 316 stainless for nuts and...

Option 3... a variation on 1 & 2. Bury nuts in epoxy filled with silica, wood flour or similar (high density is better than light weight in this case) and use machine screws instead of wood screws. I used this technique to mount a plate to the top of a keel on my i550. It was provided to me...

First, I would recommend a stopper knot in the tail of the halyard at the clove hitch on the gaff, or top boom. The spar will rotate under load and pull out. That's not a fun thing to have happen while on the water. Now for a little technical info that may be helpful, I'm assuming you are new...

I'd recommend that you move the eyestrap to the top of the boom and attach the block with a piece of line. That would spread the load of the mainsheet around the whole boom instead of it pulling on that failing rivet. Also allows the block to rotate around the boom instead of twisting the boom...

I'm about to make this very same change to a 76 as well. I'll be using a ronstan 55 orbit ratchet with a rubber boot instead of the spring. Mount the eye strap and cleat with screws, the largest washers that will fit on the back side and nylock nuts. Both should take #10 screws, but I like...