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Good luck! I noticed some details in trying different trim positions (still learning..) - For me it seems the cunningham is more sensitive for trimming. If I trim cunningham a little too hard I notice quite a loss in power/pointing ability when going upwind. A "little too hard" is when the...

Have almost the same experience as you chrisfsi, sailed slow with too much outhaul and cunningham in medium wind - until a got the advice to losen both from an experienced sailor. I agree with all outhaul advices to chrisfsi, but don't forget the cunningham when de-powering. The cunningham...

Ok, after a second look I can see some tapering work on some pictures (not the first) I believe you got it right, I missed it on the pictures. When I did the same I grinded/tapered off more, maybe an inch or so. /Magnus

Nice work! Did the same on my foil too - A small advice if you want it to last longer;): Taper the area around the broken edge (both sides of the foil) until you get a "V"-shape. Doing this you get a much larger area for the polyester/glass-fibre to attach/glue on. The resulting repair can...

Me agin - did a quick measure and find that the "transoms round" must be the gunwale rounding at the middle of the transom. My boat/mast rake-measure is 150,4 inches. Seems ok according to Ben...

Hi, I have a -93 Laser hull which I repaired the mast step during the winter. I wonder about the "ideal" mast rake, because I might have altered the rake of the mast due to extra layer of epoxy/glassfibre inside the mast step. I read in Ben Ainslies book that Lasers are produced (one...

Hi, The rivets are 4,8 mm diameter, but I'm not sure about the length(s). The length is depending on the item you are mounting. Believe its 12mm length for vang plate and block lacing eyes, maybe ok for end plugs and cleat too. For the fairlead you need quite longer, maybe 16mm is ok. NOTE...

Chris, if using rivets, you should use monel type since they are less galvanic corrosive to the alu.tube. On the other hand, the vang steel plate is the biggest problem here anyway. I use bolts (M4 machine tread, 4,0 diam.) in A4 quality (stainless steel/acidproof) and M4 nuts with nylon...

Hi, I'm just curious how to practice, especially upwind. Do you just look at SOG (speed-over-ground) in upwind? Ideal scenario would be to somehow read the VMG (actual speed towards wind) but that kind of equipment is far-out for a Laser and aimed only for bigger keelboats. I have a small...

Hi, I also looked around a bit - finally bought a Casio W-753 and it works for fine me. Ok in price also. It has a "yacht-timer" - during countdown it beeps every minute plus 30sec left. The most important is the beeping each second during the final 10 seconds ending with longer tone on...

I've spoke to I guy here in Sweden - he's addicted to kites - quite advanced stuff. He built them with carbon tubes from Excel (made in Finland). These carbon rods are top quality made from high modulus carbon fibre, Excel also make other carbon tubes for floor hockey shafts etc. The Kite guy...

Ok, got it! Think this will work well as long the paddle shaft is solid. Why not turning the paddle 90 degrees (flat align the paddle blade)? Then you can skip the long side cutting of the shaft, which will weaken the shaft in all cases - the strength lies in the outer laminate. It doesnt...

Good suggestions! Achmed, I've also thought about moulding the hockey stick in place, but how to remove it after the epoxi has cured? Maybe have some thin oil or wax or something on the inside of the rudder so the epoxi doesnt glue it all together? If this is solved it must be the best way and...

Hi, I've just started my winter project - building a carbon tiller + extension. A fun thing to do and it saves me a bit of money too...if I succeed :) Perhaps someone else is interested or have some own experience to share. I think I've solved most 'how-to-do' details, but I have some wonders...

Well, I didn't meant to bring it to an higher scientific level, just to translate subjective attributes as soft, stiff etc. You have pointed out the buyer checkpoints and the document works fine as a buying guide and my comment about quantifying stiffness is maybe a little bit off topic for...

Nice work - very helpful indeed! Have some comments though: - I miss something about the weight - what is ok depending on the use (from cruising around to top level racing) - How to jugde if the boat is stiff or soft? The document describes finding soft spots on the deck by pushing by...

Hi, I'm about to buy some compass but havn't decided yet. What about the Silva 73R model? Its smaller but seems to be Ok to read anyway It has the same type of scale as Silva 103R. Take a look at...

I've now got some advises - thanks. Some of them advise me to remove the old putty/bond first, but this will be very difficult. The aft original putty joints are ok (bailer and aft corners) so I don't want to remove the brass bailer and break/bend the hull and cockpit apart - and I think I...

Hi, My new inspection hole continues to reveal the inner secrets of my Laser. I have discovered that the cockpit floor has separated from the center beam on the hull aft of centreboard trunk. The problem is the "putty" which is used to bond the beam and the cockpit floor together - it has...

Yes Al, I had the sleeve out of my boom these days - its no problem to slide it out at all after removing of rivets. The sleeve is a 45mm dia. alu.tube 600 mm long, simply a standard measure and not so mysterious "builder supplied". Its actually a quite loose fit into the boom - inner diameter...