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I built a cradle for my hull to replace the bunks that came with the trailer. Each rib in the cradle is fit to the cross-section of the hull, with a pool "noodle" over it and carpet wrapped around that. You can see the gap down the middle for the chine to rest in.

I roll the sail on itself, then slide the spars/sail/mast into a spar bag (bungees are spaced down the length to keep it from fluttering while going down the road). The cradle in the pic supports the front, the rear rests on a boat cushion placed just aft of the cockpit. The cradle is made of...

So that's what a poop deck looks like...

Houston, TX @ 7:00 this morning

Good idea! I've wanted to find a way to put a stretchy cargo net across the rear compartment so that stuff doesn't wander out.

I always assumed the chatter is due to a non-symmetrical shape (or asymmetrical drag, or too much play between the board and the slot). Pulling the board up shortens the amount in the water so there's less of the board exposed to whichever's causing it , plus the shorter length is less likely...

Do a search on 'water shoes'. These are available all over (Academy, Wal-mart, etc.).

I'm a wimp (and have no dry suit) - I wait for about 75 degrees F or higher.

You could notch the upper side of the tiller's end to accommodate the extension's mount. You may want to widen the end by gluing on some pieces of wood to match the width of the universal mount.

That is a beautiful boat.

Since I almost always go out with a friend for crew, I won't head for the water unless it's a minimum of 15 mph, and anything up to mid-20's is just fine. Past that it gets a little too sporty and I worry about the equipment holding together. If you have a slippery tiller handle then wrap...

Good idea to carry zip ties. And kudos to making such a repair "at sea"!

Assuming the height of the lower spar is maintained constant, varying the length of the mast moves the entire sail forward for a longer mast and aft for a shorter one. I doubt a one foot difference makes much, if any difference, but I'm curious as to how the sailing qualities would change if...

+1 on always wearing a PFD. A technique taught by the space shuttle crew trainers to the astronauts in the event they parachuted into water and the chute covered them was to "climb" or "crawl" out from under the chute. The same technique should work with a sail; i.e., facing up, act like...

Yep - loop the mainsheet under the hook and hang on. It won't take long before you're vowing to get a block or cleat before heading out again... ;)

That hook mounted at the front lip of the cockpit was all the stock Sunfish came with (maybe still the case).

Some are making an assumption that the water is clear enough to see an approaching hazard which is not always the case. Where I sail I'm lucky to be able to see a more than a few inches below the surface.

I'd be afraid to put that much of a shear load on the gudgeon. In the picture it appear slightly bent at the bottom and there are spider cracks in the gel coat near the top to either side, but those are maybe not related. Then again, maybe I'm extra gun-shy since I almost had the...

That looks familiar! I had a very similar crack on the hull I bought used a few years ago - see the attached photo. I cut out the bad area, removing as little as possible, and beveled the edge around the hole. I used a little spray foam to provide some support behind the patch. If the...

I applied a few coats of spar varnish followed by periodic waxing. A weak point in the wooden rudder are the holes through which the pivot bolt and spring pin pass - water can get access to the end grain and soak in. Make sure the sides of the holes get a good coating of whatever you use.