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Here's the pix

Before I bought the Sunfish I raced a Laser. It was too physical for me. To make it plane upwind I was suppose to hike flat out parallel with the water. Yeah, right, when I was 20 years old. At 60 it ain't gonna happen. I do give up some speed due to my weight, 190lbs, but am trying...

OK, so I broke out the mast step. Pix below, but it seems like there should be a repair kit like there is for Lasers. I'm not finding a kit for Sunfish. Have you done this repair? I've looked at some info on the Sunfish Forum, they talk about adding an inspection port and working thru it...

First do a leak test. Then turn the trailer into something that will not damage your Fish, add springs and full supporting bunks of some kind. Then go sailing. Great buy, enjoy.

Just measured, from the bottom of the well to the top of the deck is 9 1/8". Wonder if it has been "fixed" before. Could be interesting trying to cut some off and lower it. We'll see, I have a guy coming by this AM to look at it. Cheers, Winever.

Thanks Kevin, good info, I'll go check. Tag, yeah, gotta fix it, it's my boat...and I'm missing it, LOL. Cheers, Winever.

Here's an additional pix from the top.

Sailing 2 weeks ago and my mast well broke loose top and bottom. When I looked inside the hull (have some ports in already) it looked like a piece was still there and it had split in the middle. Then to night I look a little closer and see the well doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the...

BTW, a couple of things to add, the 4 feet class limit on cleat height is from the end of the aluminum pole, not the deck. Saw a guy this weekend that made that mistake and corrected it. Also be sure you mount it "high enough" because if you adjust the tie on the upper spar for deck clearance...

Here's what I use for sailing and kayaking. Works fine, especially when sailing the Fish while sitting on the cockpit sole. You want a jacket that is long enough in back to cushion the edge of the cockpit, more comfort. It adjusts at the sides and I like the flexibility of the body instead of...

Zane Grey, all good advice here. One other thing you may want to do is trip the boat on either side to be sure the foam blocks are still attached and not banging a round loose inside the hull. That fix is a bit more difficult and I would pass on a boat like that....except I already bought it...

Clem if you do us a backer, you might want to be sure it won't sponge up water. Cheers, Win ever.

WD, thanks for the info, this old body needs help ducking, LOL. BTW, when you say 16" on the gooseneck, are you talking from the tip, or just the aluminum section of the spar. Sorry to ask so bacis a question but I need to know. Thanks, Win ever.

Rick, thanks for taking time to write all this, BIG help for me. I too am pushing 200 lbs and need power. This is great info. I also am putting together another whole rig for the wife's boat, but want the rig to fit me too for recreational sailing. I was worried about moving the standard...

Here's how my boat was rigged when I bought it, works for me. I like having the blocks next to me if I have to cleat them, which is rare. Also here's a pix of the deck guard for the tiller. FYI, Win ever.

Oh, OK, so they are legal to eace class sanctioned events even thought they may not be the racing cut. Learned something new, thanks. I did measure the and the racing sail is 2 and half inches longer on the spars. Thanks, Win ever.

I have three different sails with the pictured sailmakers patch. I know the one sail is a racing sail because I bought it that way. The other 2 came with boats and I assumed they are both recreational. OK, but why the "Class"designation on them? Anyone have the story? Thanks, Win ever.

Tag, yeah, I saw that Intensity Sails adjuster, glad to know it works well. I finally just drilled out the bolt so the adjuster will be ordered next. If anyone is in the same fix I might mention some things. When I drilled it out I added a drop of oil now and again, it helped the bit get a...

Tag, BIG THANKS, great info, I appreciate it. We'll see how it goes. Best, Win ever.

To keep the mast attached to the hull during a capsize, simply lead the halyard (after tying off at the cleat) thru the bullseye and tie off at the deck cleat. Or you can go thru the eye, then over the gooseneck for a vang effect, back down thru the eye and then to the deck cleat. Win ever.