Used a spring loaded hole set to mark new hole locations before pre-drilling rivet holes through cured West System 407 “putty” and fiberglass tape repair/renforcement.
I was concerned that the spring loaded hole set may stress crack fiberglass or gel coat, but it was nice and solid with the one...
The spray coaming that came with this boat (not mounted) had ingrained “schmutz”.
Found that the 3M adhesive cleaner cleaned it up the best .... with a little elbow grease.
Used a heat gun to heat the old sealant on the concave underside and scraped off with a wood chisel.
Have studied images and diagrams online...and I understand the order of the parts.
I’m going to give it a shot tonight or tomorrow.
I’ve relinquished enough sacrifices to Neptune, so may switch to the drilled pintle in the future.
I am embarking on re-assembling of my pintle assembly.
I have the circlip designed pintle without a hole drilled.
Any tips on how to get that circlip in?
It looks like you must know the ins and outs of assembling rudders with all those for sale… :D
Think I’m going to have to compress...
Google found a photo of the backside of the clamp.
It appears there’s a stainless nut.
I’ve got an email out to Wolftooth in regard to the length of the bolt.
Will post that information as soon as I get it.
I’m trying to establish whether or not it has a nut on the other side or whether it threads into the other half of the clamp,
i’m not sure yet.... but either way I think I’m going to get it due to the stainless construction and the bronze Cam saddle.
Made in Minneapolis, looks like a neat team...
This boom clamp is a little bit pricey, but the bushing is bronze and the “bolt” is stainless steel.
Currently $36.95 including shipping. On eBay
So far it is the only one I can find with a stainless “bolt”. Many colors!! :rolleyes:
Still need to measure the length I need to order, I haven’t...
Nice work!!! Nice paint job! :cool:
Great Pics, they always help!
I see a roll of butyl tape did you use it to seal the heads of the rivets?
I think I’m going to use 4200 for my sealant/adhesive, I have a partial tube hanging out.
Yep, I think I will have been able to build a boat out of...
Yes, that does sounds easier.
I haven’t shifted to the premixed tubes.... Yet ....... but it interests me.
Does the cloth wet out thoroughly?
Sounds like you can buy extra tips and it doesn’t separate in the tube or harden in the tube.
I figured if I ever built a...
Spray Coaming repair today using fiberglass tape To finish the layup on deck:
Placed the glass tape just shy of the masking tape.
Poured on the resin and squeegeed out the resin to evenly saturate the cloth.
Used a small metal glass roller to level the...
Yeah, LV&W you are right.
I’m going to do a very light lay up on the top.
Starting on it soon I’m not sure if I’m going to do circles or glass tape the entire length.
Taping entire length would give me an even/level and stronger coaming install on the top I think....
Think I forgot to...
Reinforcing and repairing the deck and reattaching the coaming:
I’ve opted to use West System epoxy with the 407 filler and either fiberglass tape or cloth..
The 407 filler is much easier to sand than the other harder structural fillers and since I’ll be using fiberglass cloth in addition it...
If you look at the previous posts you’ll see that the person that posted it acquired the Sunfish with the holes for the access ports already cut in place.
Could also see that it’s likely a jigsaw was used to cut the holes, see all the crazing.
If you do have a Roto zip, it cuts the...