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  1. Webfoot1

    advice and guidance please

    Standard is one behind the splash rail center of boat and one about four inches forward from stern center of boat. Put a muffin fan over one hole before you install the ports and depending on foam saturation blow air through the boat for one to four months. There are some vids on Youtube...
  2. Webfoot1

    advice and guidance please

    If you just let the kids fart around with it you could leave as is but if you want the best performance and something that will not break you back trying to transport there is no other option than inspection ports. It's a 30 minute to one hour job to install them so I always go with that...
  3. Webfoot1

    How to repair cracked coaming?

    Splash Rail is structural, it keeps the hull from flexing. That's why the last two or screws on each end often pull out and the hull seams often pop in that area. If you want confirmation remove the three screws on each end and go sailing in chop. Watch what happens to the gap between the hull...
  4. Webfoot1

    How to repair cracked coaming?

    It's a structural repair for broken fiberglass so Marine-Tex will not work. You can get a Rivnut gun if needed for about $45 at Harbor Freight. If the Rivnuts are pulling out they need to be replaced anyway but removing the screws should not result in a problem 90 percent of the time.
  5. Webfoot1

    How to repair cracked coaming?

    Super easy job to remove and put some cloth and mat on the back. It's broken because the coaming ends are a major stress point that keeps the hull from flexing, (less).
  6. Webfoot1

    Thrift Store Sunfish!

    Epoxy can be used as a filler. First wet the wood and when it drys sand the fuzz off. Then put epoxy on and scrape off as much as you can with a card while wet. After the epoxy drys sand and and apply multiple coats of spar varnish. You'll be glad you put the extra effort into it later on.
  7. Webfoot1

    Old Style Rudder

    The bottom strap is meant to flex just enough to allow the rudder to kick in and out. This is tensioned by the spring plate and wing nut on top. Two things happen, the edges of the pocket in the lower strap wear out and the wood screw holding the bottom strap pulls out. You will get to the...
  8. Webfoot1

    Sealing mast and booms

    Yes it is unless you want a tippy boat that is harder to right when capsized. The mast full of water holds the volume of about 2 milk jugs.
  9. Webfoot1

    DIY daggerboard options

    Make a nice hardwood board then let your friends use it when they borrow the boat. I usually spend a total of $15 for a oak or mahogany plank at the local big box store. I also tend to have a affinity for wood shavings and spar varnish.
  10. Webfoot1

    Splitting the deck on a newer hull

    Gads, with the shape it's in you have nothing to lose trying to get the deck loose. The bow looks like a good candidate to be removed and have a replacement molded from another Sunfish. The missing part of the top deck definitely needs a replacement molded from another fish if you are going...
  11. Webfoot1

    Splitting the deck on a newer hull

    You may be on the cutting edge of later model Sunfish repair. Post pictures of your attempts as many will undoubtedly rely on your pioneering techniques. Even a patient left dead on the table can be a leaning experience.
  12. Webfoot1

    Lost older brass drain plug

    Standard pipe thread, you can find a brass drain plug at the hardware. Google Garboard Drain Plug and you'll find them plentiful. Cork will still be cheaper and easier on the foot when you step on it.
  13. Webfoot1

    Lost older brass drain plug

    Ebay every day if you are willing to spend $70. I'd put the $70 on good bottle of wine and use the wine cork for a plug.
  14. Webfoot1

    Free Sunfish... little wet

    You'll never get it on the dolly and if you did it would crush it. You can get it one third of the way onto the beach. Don't bother tying on to the bow handle and pulling with you car, the results are predictable. To get it further up the beach I would use a flat ribbon tow strap looped...
  15. Webfoot1

    Free Sunfish... little wet

    Take a battery powered drill and a large bit and a water pump, it will be too heavy to fully drag on shore.
  16. Webfoot1

    Free Sunfish... little wet

    Hell ya, I'd take it if I were on the east coast. Blue is my favorite, even if it looks like it got rammed and there is a v notch in the far side. If you're coming to Michigan feel free to dump it in my yard.
  17. Webfoot1

    Hull Repair Strategy

    I never use cardboard as a backing plate. I lay out a sheet of cloth on wax paper and when dry peel it off the wax paper and use it as backing. It's fairly flexible for the job. You could use the shoreline method for the keel but the large chunk missing is the problem. I would make a...
  18. Webfoot1

    Bottom of boat hole

    Use a tapered grinding stone to counter-sink the hole from the outside. Clean up the inside and apply a strip of glass matt and cloth. When dry apply fiberglass filler to the hole on the outside. Easier than when you next try to put the aluminum backing plate in. Due to excess epoxy and junk...
  19. Webfoot1

    Bottom of boat hole

    If you're going with a new style you will be installing a inspection port in the deck to mount the rudder bracket? Glassing over the hole from the inside using the inspection hole is usually standard.
  20. Webfoot1

    Sunfish newbie Questions repair/upgrade

    Not much too it really, put 'Sunfish Sailboat Foam Replacement' in You Tube. I usually do it to fix a crunched bow. Some smart person on this forum solved the large number of clamps needed by horizontally splitting small sections of PVC pipe. Sunfish Forum has really helped figure out better...
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