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  1. Eddie_E

    What is the proper way to use swivel cam cleat?

    I have to wonder if you are using too big or too soft of a main sheet. I have the same cleat in the same spot and it's never an issue. If using a cheap 3/8 it could be an issue. I recommend trying some of the blue 5/16 Ozark Trail utility rope from Walmart. It only cost $3 and last more than a...
  2. Eddie_E

    3-Loop Bridle

    I'm not following the 3 loop setup. Are you guys saying you now rig with a traveler block like a Laser?
  3. Eddie_E

    Can someone identify this boat?

    A brand new race cut sail is only $125 from Intensity. If the Sunfish hull weighs less than 140 lbs buy them.
  4. Eddie_E

    Changing Rudder Pivot Point

    I have a few thoughts on that old thread. First is that trying to cover up bad trim should not be the goal, as mentioned by Bill. However, with proper trim, it has a nice benefit. The idea that it's too expensive to glue a dowel into a hole and re-drill is silly. If you can't afford a $1 dowel...
  5. Eddie_E

    Changing Rudder Pivot Point

    I have a nice piece of Sapele that will be a rudder by Spring time. My current plan is to reduce the rake another 8 degrees and increase the volume only 5% or so. I'm not going to the full 90* angle, just based on my experience with another boat. A small amount of rake keeps the tiller from...
  6. Eddie_E

    The C5: What we know so far

    Lasers will always have a good resale market. However, some may find they can no longer ask $4K for a 20 year old heavily used boat.
  7. Eddie_E

    The C5: What we know so far

    I've sailed both setups and I don't find the old setup too bad. I do suspect the broken or bent masts from releasing the vang too late could be avoided for newer people. Of course I'm referring to club and regional racing, not the Olympics. Only in 23 knots or higher is the old setup harder to...
  8. Eddie_E

    The C5: What we know so far

    The reason is that it's hard to bring new blood into a class when you tell a new sailor that they need to spend another $500 to updated the vang and rigging, while at the same time telling those who are serious about racing that they can't have any new sail technology. The former keeps new guys...
  9. Eddie_E

    The C5: What we know so far

    If you really want to stick with a classic Laser design, I'm in. As long as we start by limiting the Vang to the original 4:1 and remove all the outhaul controls from the deck. Otherwise I'm buying an 8M fathead sail.
  10. Eddie_E

    Changing Rudder Pivot Point

    I think these should work.
  11. Eddie_E

    Changing Rudder Pivot Point

    It's possible to notch the bottom leading edge of the rudder (in the cassette) to change the angle 10 degrees or so. You do have to plug and re-drill the hole for the tiller strap to get the angle back to normal. Drilling the hole isn't hard all you need to do is tighten the 2 rudder strap bolts...
  12. Eddie_E

    Q. for USA-based Laser sailors: what's USA's best area for (Laser) sailing?

    Boston is a terrible idea. There is an active sailing program run from the MIT boat house, but they mainly sail 420's in the Charles River. Most of the year, the river is narrow, dirty and cold. I work within bicycling distance of there and I won't sail my Laser there. Stick with the Southern...
  13. Eddie_E

    Boat design: question about increasing hull length

    I'm not a sailboat designer, but I noticed a trend while looking at boats from the 70's and 80's. The ones I looked at seem to have a max width for stability that doesn't increase with length as much as I expected. I saw 14' boats that were stable with a 6' beam and I saw boats at 17' and 19'...
  14. Eddie_E


    Unfortunatley, the only way to tell if it's the bailer tube is leaking is to unscrew it and seal between the tub and the hull and re assemble. You need two 1" open end wrenches or 1 super thin walled socket, and 2 people to unscrew it. LaLi's method of putting water in the hull is what I did to...
  15. Eddie_E


    There are many places. In high wind it could be the underside of the rail separating. In all winds it could be between the hulls from an over-tightened bailer tube. And the obvious place in the dagger board trunk. Bad O-ring on the drain plug?
  16. Eddie_E

    Power Washer damage

    The ratchet block on my Laser is mounted with 2 of those #8 stainless wood screws and it hasn't pulled out in 36 years and that has 10 times the load of a splash guard.
  17. Eddie_E

    Wind speed

    When lake sailing, we don't call it 20 knots until the waves have fully formed white caps on them. Somewhere between 23~25 the top will blow off the top of the white caps. The first sign of white caps we call 18 knots. This usually mirrors what the weather stations say in our area.
  18. Eddie_E

    How to apply epoxy inside the daggerboard trunk?

    I have an idea for this, but it has never been tried. If it goes badly, you would have a lot of hand sanding with sand paper around a dowel. What I would like to try is slopping the epoxy around the trunk as usual. Then take a balloon and wipe it gently with rag that has silicone on it. Drop...
  19. Eddie_E

    Replacement Bailer Balls

    Yes, an impact wrench is always a good first option. Unfortunately I live in New England and our corrosion is a whole level worse than most. I tried a 1/2" impact wrench, then a 2 foot long breaker bar with a 2 foot metal rod in the bailer cone before going to the abrasive wheel.
  20. Eddie_E

    Beyond the corner of the stern?

    I do use the same setting for Port tack, but I let out another 5~8 degrees rounding the marks or tacking to downshift for more power out of the hole and pull it back in once I reach hull speed. Obviously Starboard is more efficient, but we are all dealing with the same limits in a one design...