“...but you're probably looking at $5-$10 if you have to order it.”
This is why I’m sure to support my local hardware store when ever possible, a good hardware store is getting as hard to find as a drive in movie.
Well yes extra parts and a couple boats,
As for the daggerboard, it is the intensity board and I ordered the rubber stop separately. In the previous post it is just sitting in the hole to keep the parts together.
Any insight on how to install the stop?
I have a few ideas, I’m just surprised it...
Be sure to have the cap screwed in the port hole while you install. This will keep it from bending and conforming to the deck. As signal Charlie say be sure to screw and unscrew during the process to check that it is not bending during the install.
My plans for the summer included overnighting on our Oday mariner with the littles on the Great South Bay, and taking part in the 51st annual sunfish race around Shelter Island.
Sadly none of this will happen due to slicing the EHL tendon in my foot right requiring surgery and 3 month recovery...
The bolt is a clever work around to keep you sailing until you replace the pintle.
If I was to use the bolt I’d put the wing nut on the bottom, this way if the nut works itself loose the bolt doesn’t drop to the bottom of the lake. A reason for an extra nut and bolt onboard is just incase you...
I just got a response from add:
“Do you have any pictures of the red/white/blue sail shown in the add?”
You mean pictures of the sail that is pictured in the add?
I guess 3 wasn’t enough.
Can’t wait to meet them.
I’m not familiar with this bar, what is its purpose?
I’ve only been repairing sunfish for a few years now, and have had only a dozen or so of them, but I have never seen this before.
Is it used in place of a deck block?
My reading comprehension or lack there of strikes again.
L&VW that sounds like another very strong repair. Unfortunately in this case I don’t think the “hybrid” would be viable option due to the fact the repair is right above/below the tub. As it happens when I used the shoreline method it was on the stern side of the daggerboard trunk. Half of the...
Probably a little late, but I used this technique from shoreline and It worked out great. Getting the shape correct and fairing the repair was much easier, plus the patch is probably strong than the original hull.
Who could say no? Great score.
Biggest issue I’d have is the honey do list gets a few items added each time I bring home a new boat. That haul would be like a whole page!!
Bright side is I get the boats, and the motivation to finish the projects around the house.
I would try to just clean up any of that old repair, then put a wedge in the split to open it up.
Apply generous amounts of tite bond 3. Then clamp overnight. Sand and refinish. I’ve done this repair and it’s holding up fine.