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Clamping the wing nut all the way down does not solve the pop up problem. You need the plastic tube to solve the problem. The problem is the carriage bolt and plate on the bottom of the boat wiggle from side to side without the tube, allowing the rudder to pop up. Fortunately the tube is...

Just run a bead of silicone around the edge of the bailer, stick it to the hull, and tighten the part in the cockpit. You won’t need the oring at all. It’s what all the racers do.

What vote are we supposed to be voting in?

You need the tube - it is essential. Once the rudder is down it prevents the piece on the bottom of the hull from moving side to side. That prevents the rudder from popping up under way ina breeze.

The rudder is designed to be flipped down and it will snap in place.

Just tie the dyneema or whatever to the eyestraps if you'd like.

You can split the hull and deck at the bow and bend it back to the mast tube. In the stern you can bend the deck back to the cockpit. But if you disconnect the mast tube, daggerboard trunk, etc you will never get the boat back together. Not sure you need to split it anyway, but if you do...

The boat in the middle is the “Gulfstream” color scheme. It was very popular around 1980 or so. Do you have the original sail? A pic of it is here if you scroll down a bit. 1979 AMF AlCort Sunfish with trailer

Btw that dowel came from the factory. I think I’d buy new - either from Intensity or Joe C. Someone else may have a used one for sale too.

Yes, that’s a 1972 I believe.

All GRP rudders need the sticker. There have been stickers on parts since there were only wood rudders available.

It used to be that there were a lot of Sunfish dealers around and you’d pay for the boat and be done. The current Sunfish manufacturer has a lot of odd business practices, and they have helped to eliminate a lot of the dealer network. I’d assume that there is a fairly significant cost to ship a...

I’d look to sell the daggerboard online and use the proceeds to replace it with a new foil shaped board. You will go upwind better and come out of tacks better. If you are going to race you should get a class-legal board from Laser Performance. If you won’t race, save some money and get one...

320 is pretty harsh. Certainly it removed some gelcoat. Next steps should be to wet sand with 600, 800 and potentially all the way to 2000. You should get a pretty decent finish.

Gluing rubber to the outside of the hull would seem prone to failure and likely to let water into the hull.

So for dings #1 and #2, I guess that means punching or cutting through that soft material all the way into the empty space inside the the hull? Yes - you need to get into the hull for the patch. The soft material needs to be cut or ground out - all of it. The you’ll sand the area around the...

Yes. The inspection port method would work too but is probably unnecessarily complex for the problems at hand.

Minifish are fiberglass. As you have now found out, fiberglass is a lot more fragile than plastic or aluminum. The damage is pretty serious - well beyond a quick Thixo repair. The “soft stuff” you are seeing is damaged fiberglass - you’ll need to remove that as part of the fix. Take a look...

It’s one of the mutations of the Sunrise sail that has been made over the years. Based on the red edges it’s probably a class legal sail. Someone installed the window is a rather bizarre location - it’s too far back. Here is an original Sunrise as it looked in the 80s when all the sails had 5...

That is a Sunfish and a recent one - 2015 or so. I didn’t realize the hulls were that pointy - I’ll have to look at mine - it’s in winter hibernation off site.