Wow. I was impatient and started the repair before I saw either of your posts. I may have to repair again in a couple of seasons, but for now I sanded back a bit more and applied fiberglass. Guess I'll see how that works.
So I figured out why the sunfish was getting so much water when I sailed. Huge cracking on underside of bow. Question, do i need to keep sanding or have I gone far enough? The very front seems to be in good enough shape. Or do I need to sand it out and remove it? And do I just put new fiberglass...
I am getting ready to replace my old rope traveller with a wire one, I think both the plain wire and the one with the loop are class legal. Does anyone have a preference for one or the other, and why?
Try the first option. I did that with my boat last winter, with just two inspection ports, one up near the splashguard and one behind the cockpit. Like yours, I'm not sure what it weighed, but since two of us had trouble carrying it, 300 sounds about right. It's amazing how much lighter it is...
the video also talks about "patch booster" for thinning gelcoat and "dry guide" or "dry glide" for help in sanding. any idea where they have this? I've tried checking on the internet, but no luck on the patch booster, and since I don't know if it's glide or guide - no luck there...
thanks Wayne, that makes perfect sense and if all else fails I can try the inspection port, but I am trying to avoid cutting yet another inspection port into the boat.
I do have another question though, I've seen that gel coat repair video, and at one point it says that the top layer of gelcoat...
Finally took some photos of the problem.
I've got these two holes, next to each other. There are still some spider cracks I need to sand down, and a friend has suggested I just make it one big repair. That gray area is either a former repair, or the edge of the cockpit.
The photos from...
"flex" might not be the right word, but there is certainly a lot of "give" when I press down on the hull, on both sides of the boat. Just worried that if part of the repair actually hits the bottom of the cockpit and part of it doesn't, it would crack again.
Finally have the sunfish dried out and ready to attempt repairs. Found two holes in the hull, both of them seem to start at the edge of the cockpit, and spread out from there. Looks like there is plenty of room between the outside of the hull and foam block, except for where it butts up against...
hull weight, I don't know. Right now it's upside down with two inspection ports cut, light bulb and fan, drying out. Been taking on water for the two season's I've had it - time to fix it. Given the condition, I don't think it was well taken care of.
Yes, we have to title them here, and register them every year - which I guess is why they came up with a tax commission number - maybe I should just attach that number to the hull somewhere.
thanks for all the input.
the number, OTCF259840, is either a made-up number, or a some variation of the original number.
OTC would be Oklahoma Tax Commission, don't know where the F or the numbers came from.
Rudder hardware is either stainless or aluminum, not brass.
The size of the "clean...
wondering if anyone here can help me determine the age of my sunfish and/or locate the serial number.
The title says it is a 1973 AMF Alcort Sunfish.
unfortunately, the number on the title seems to be a state tax commision number, (OTCF259840 - on the title, not actually anywhere on the boat)...