Fixed the cracked seam on the blue hull with some epoxy and fiberglass. Cleaned the seam, sandwiched some cloth, epoxied, and then clamped the seam.
Went sailing yesterday. No water in the hull afterwards ;)
Interesting. Maybe this sail was made during some sort of transition.
The yellow hull- Unknown age. Someone repaired the bow eye and moved it fwd or back. covering/destroying the serial. Currently attempting to date it using the Michigan registration number. It does have Stainless steel rudder...
I acquired two Lasers withing the last two weeks.
Yellow Laser ($400):
Mast step cracked at the bottom (leaks)
1" soft spot
Trailer included in sale
one wood/one composite dagger board
Blue Laser (Free)...
Have been busy for the past weeks. Sunfish is basically done. Once I install that one missing rivet in the coaming, and repair a small hole where the storage compartment meets the cockpit, it will go in the water. Should be a few pounds dryer by now. not too worried if it is 20 pounds over the...
Bow handle is as sturdy as can be. Happy with the outcome.
Installed the deck plates and the coaming. I found the solution to buying 13 rivets for 8 dollars + shipping. I used some 3/16"-1/4" grip po-rivets from my local hardware store. $2.00 for 12 rivets. Some when they say up to 1/4"...
This will not get rid of old scratches, but would prevent further scratches is you were to zip tie some pipe insulation to the tiller arm. Cheap and temporary fix. Any pictures?
Everbilt 1 in. x 6 ft. Foam Pipe Insulation-ORP11812 - The Home Depot
So I went ahead and cut an inspection port at the bow. Thankfully I was able to slide a mahogany backing block in with no issues. There was no goop in the way where they would have glued the backing block in place so I got lucky. Total time to cut the port and install a new block: 25...
Silicon sealer is definitely a no go. Had the salesman at west marine recommend that I use 5200 as the sealer for the split deck:rolleyes:...
Bought some 3m gelcoat restoring compound... Results of 30 seconds of buffing using an old rag (before and after):
Did a nose job using some filler...
Any idea what the dimensions are for the coaming rivets?
I'll consider the deck split. Does not seem like it would take more than an hour to split. When it comes to the deck split, epoxy is preferred over polyester resin? I know epoxy is a no no when it comes to adhesion with polyester (gelcoat).
Here we can see the aftermath of the deck coaming removal. All of the holes, except for one of ones you see in the picture, are within spec and were not damaged by the corroding rivnuts.
Are these cracks below the rub rail anything to be concerned about (found in several spots)...