It would be nice if we all experienced such good luck. Mine corroded and broke. It cost me about 80 cents to print a replacement, including filament and electricity. To each his own. :)
I've seen people show videos of recycling waste filament into new filament. I just don't generate enough waste for that so I let the city's contractor do it. :)
I guess no one understands why I put the STL file on there. It's for you to make your own and do your own testing to your requirements. :) Just sand it down and make it smoother. If your hand can't handle that, it can't handle the stock handle either. ;)
It's a prototype. That's why I shared the STL file. :) Also, the connection to the parts that screw to the hull are stronger this way. And if you try to get fancy with compound curves you're going to spend a lot of time removing supports unless you have a two-extruder printer and print the...
First bow handle in ABS. Still a prototype. Screw holes are intentionally undersize, you need to gently drill them out to fit your screws. STL file is here in case anyone else wants to be a guinea pig. :)
I would think that for this it would make more sense to use a wood carving duplicator with a rotating mount, like the ones used to duplicate gunstocks. A heck of a lot faster and true to the original.
The pictures and details don't load but you can still download the file. As I suspected, it is HUGE, most likely for use on a CNC carver and not a 3D printer. Thanks!
But now I *am* getting more results for parts!
I agree with *all* of this. PLA is ok for prototyping but no way you can use it on a boat. One day you'll go look for it and all that's left is goo. :) It is also possible to convert 3D printers into CNC machines, but most people use it for low Z-axis engraving, at least from what I have seen.
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