Recent content by LaLi

Honestly, I don't know. It's been occasionally mentioned, but it could be a myth, too. Haven't looked down into other people's mast steps :D but might do that next time at the club... _

In my experience, not a "challenge", but just plain impossible :confused: I once tried to tow a trolley (floating tyres and a very light construction) a short distance to a sailing club on an island with no bridge connection. It became quite quickly clear it was not working... the load on the...

What Rob said. Once you've built up the bottom of the step to the original level (if you can't measure that from another boat, you might turn to PSA again), get a protection disc and drop it into the step. (Its material is free, and I'm not sure if stainless would or wouldn't cause more...

The one on the left is pressed, and the other is forged. The screws you'd use would have a different shaped head as well. The forged one would be better for a line or strap attachment, but since the block (presumably) is attached with a swiveling shackle, it doesn't matter. I would choose the...

Five digits? Wasn't it supposed to be from 1992...? (Would explain the design of the vang key fitting though.) Please post more pictures (not just of the number) :) _

In one word, no. The Australian and Japanese builders could still use the "Laser" trademark in their respective areas, but they've decided to market their boats globally under the "ILCA" trademark like the six new builders. LaserPerformance presumably continues building "Lasers", with...

Speculation: that measurement was left ”nominal” because it changes with the thickness of the sheet, which in turn is not restricted. Also, there’s no advantage to be gained going much shorter or longer. _

About that tiller: it's the "roller" model by Rooster. It wasn't on the market for a very long time, obviously because it doesn't work the way it was intended! (I have tested it myself.) The way the roller is attached makes it jam under load, so the coarse outer surface (it's made with a male...

There are built-in (=they won't fall off) wooden backing plates behind all fittings on the deck. As said, the cunningham and outhaul block and cleat plates are interchangeable with the cunningham fairlead and Clamcleat using the same fasteners. Have never heard of any pulling out. The block...

It's a traveller if there's any travelling involved, controlled or not :rolleyes: A bridle can be adjustable, too. _

On a single-sail boat, you want to set the boom at a non-zero angle to the centreline in order to gain maximum VMG (best speed/height compromise) upwind. Also, you don't need very much twist (difference in angle between top and bottom of the sail) going upwind, so you want the sheet to pull...

I've seen people do it like that, too. However, it misses the point that the line is actually unnecessary in holding the blade down (sufficient tension on the pivot bolt does that), but is good for keeping the tiller tightly in the head. To better do that, the 3:1 should be along the tiller...

A "skinny" (as opposed to "Gorilla" :rolleyes: ) aluminium tiller with an asymmetric horn cleat would be typical for 1984... If the cleat is forward of the traveller, then a 3:1 like Rob mentioned is easy to rig, just tie a small bowline (to act like a block) to the line close to the rudder...

The one whose deck is visible is from the early or mid-1970s. Hard to judge the blue boat when you don't see more of it, but it's probably from the 70s or 80s. The one in between could be a lot newer. I'd take that one if I had to :D Please take and post more pictures if you're serious about...

I don't find the extra "sloshing" of the Radial section a plausible explanation for the extra wear (which, in light of the numbers, has been considerable). That is, I don't see how the friction would increase by having slightly more space on the opposite side. Also it looks like the mast is...