The skipper moves in the same way as with a crew. Of course, in lighter air the movement starts closer to the centreline, and ends there as well on the new tack, so you play part of the crew's role then.
I'm sure it's not - if you feel you need to grab something, try something more rigid, like...
You don't need to remove it for a national level regatta, unless the Notice Of Race says so. You don't even have to have the "right" (or any) national letters; all you need is the sail number to be that of the hull, or another hull that you own.
Purely technically, acetone works.
Isn't this a bit trivial? The builders supply only aluminium booms. It can't be "home-built" of another material, and it doesn't help at all if that material comes from another part of the boat.
Haven't tried it, but I wouldn't be surprised if it turned out to be a lot of work. It depends on...
Alan, do you know if anyone has actually measured how much the boom bends, short vs. long sleeve? (Of course I could go to the club and test it any day, but it would be nice to hear someone else's data, too.)
Ok, so like myself, you have the short (65 cm) sleeve. The longer 90 cm version, which extends aft of the forward sheet block position was introduced around 1997. Like Emilio just said, just changing to that should be enough for a safe reinstallment of the sheet block in the original place...
Sounds easy! I have used in the past talcum powder with windscreen washer fluid; the resulting mix (with the glue) is reasonably easy to scrape off with a dull knife.
My local sailmaker uses acetone, and they say it shouldn't do any measurable harm to the sailcloth.
A 1994 boom should already have the sleeve, but of course that boom could be much older than the hull (the amount of corrosion would indicate that, too).
Is that the aft or forward block position in the picture?
Had a nice day on the water today... thirteen degrees (as predicted), alternating sun and haze, light to full hiking conditions, gusty with big shifts though.
1) my hiking boots don't fit under the grabrails,
2) you'd have to come in from a hiking position for your feet to...
:eek: Oh wow... we'll have about 13° today, but it's still warmer than average for this time of the year. Going to sail the Laser in a few hours, it's been a really long time since the last time... have to test the technique of this thread immediately :D
The text doesn't explicitly make that comparison, but I assume it's that you get a more solid contact to the boat through the rail than the strap, which always has some lateral play. It makes sense in conditions when you're not fully hiking, and your feet are close to the leeward rail anyway...
We're talking about the monopoly within the Laser class. Or rather, it's a set of regional monopolies, but the individual consumer is limited to one choice nevertheless. I have personally tried buying certain Australian parts (which at the time were fundamentally different to the European...
Sand that patch flush with the original gelcoat surface with a medium to fine paper, remove any loose material with a knife, cover all bare fibreglass with gelcoat filler (this should be the right colour), and sand flush again. Finish with very fine wet paper, and polish if you want.