the thing is, when youre sailing by the lee, your'e no actually letting your sail out past 90, you do however need to let the kicker off loads.
The rolling is becaue with the sail past 90 degrees, the tipping force acts to windward, not to leeward (the sail is pushed back towards the boat)...
Huh? From what I gather, youre talking about a stopper that stops the centerboard sliding out the bottom of the boat, yes?
Well in that case, you must do things differently in america, because in the UK instead we have funny plastic clip-thingy that is in two parts and clips through a hole in...
I would recomend the "Inside out" line to anyone having problems with twisting mainsheets. As Long as your organised and get rid of all the twists before you go sailing, It works like a dream and doesnt twist nearly as much as "traditional" mainsheets.
I'm not sure, however I think you can...
When traveling directly downwind, sometimes you may be traveling on a course where the sail can even be considered to be on the wrong side of the boat, if the sail is let out too far, you can reach a situation where the predominant force is rolling the boat to windward, not to leeward (as is...
Sail controls is a really big subject, however you can most probably find a load of really useful guides on the internet (Im too tired atm to find some for you right now, however I will have a look and post some when I have a chance).
Having found a read some guides on where to have your sail...
I have mini-cleats on my boat, and although I would never remove them, (they are useful in certain situations, but never usualy in normal racing that goes to plan!), cleats are still a pain, and also a temptation!
Because I have the mini-cleats, its a load more comfortable than the big uns...
certainly the best solution is prevention however,
There are various positions to sit in to make sure you can move your weight about the boat, one has already been mentioned, however I would say that if your going to death roll, simply moving your weight in isnt going to do loads, as there is...
Its also reccomended that you put some silicone sealant around the hole where the screw goes btw, because otherwise your hull will leak.
I suppose that counts as glue.
It depends on the system you use... If you use blocks and which blocks you use, being that the rules and therefore the rigging system people use has recently changed.
I dont sail in that cold water... but I find that the Gill "dry" gloves work really well. I used to get really cold hands, tried these and I was much much warmer.
They arent actually dry, but for some reason the fur lining seems to work very well anyway, much better than normal gloves.
Hmm, it does depend on how serious you are...
Brand new boats have a perfect finish and will be completely dry, wheras used boats (no matter how old they are) will have been sailed and so will probably have some sort of markings / something on the surface that will affect performance.
In...
hmm, probably the best related thing here would be the london boat show (or the southhampton boat show but that has less dingy sailing). Im not sure how much laser had there (I didnt sail laser the last time I went), but they had a laser simulator which was kinda cool :) i think ben ainslie had...
but ropes break at the points where they are being compressed - if you dead-end your control lines then thats reducing the strength at that point, and i wrap my lines around the kicker connection to the mast which wears the ropes
If your rigging is good enough - yes, if not, well my cuninghap needed a bit of repair on the sunday and a batten popped out - since then ive replaced my traveler and one of my cuningham ropes! :)
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