Recent content by glasky

  1. G

    Wind Breaks Radial vs Full

    Radial is not just smaller, it is a totally different trimming and sailing regime Top redial sailors point way low for speed to end up high very tweeked regime - not like the outa control standard rig for 55kg sailors in 25K +
  2. G

    Wind speed v temperature

    Warmer air is more turbulent
  3. G

    Wings on a Laser

    Easy to engineer without drilling holes Just secure wing tubing at mainsheet block point and toestrap eyes Then at Gunwhale use sort of roof rack clamps inverted to run under the lip and screw up tight Toe straps on the wings tiller extension might need mid extension flex join (stiff...
  4. G

    Windward Heel and Lightwind Sailing

    See Also Championship Laser Racing Glenn Bourke Fenhurst Books 1993 ISBN 0 906754 852 Page 62
  5. G

    Wooden Dagger & rudder repair

    In Australia u used to be able to buy $20 garden leaf rakes (Cyclone brand) with a plastic head and an aluminium (aluminum) handle of the same diameter and wall thickness and finish the Laser alum Tiller (Just rivet a flat bar of alum to it or buy a Laser nylon head fitting and u have a...
  6. G

    XD clew hook vs. tied block

    There was an XD info post showing a harken hook rigged fron the outhaul to the clew (instead of rigged with line around the boom and with outhaul attached separately) - if this is what u are doin asking for trouble
  7. G

    UK Stacking Trolley

    Stacker trolleys (Dolleys) used to be supplied by Nelson Bay Laser (Now taken over by Belmont based Hobie/Laser dealer) - See NSW Laser web for dealer listings (I dont work for them but Former owner Milsey gave good service)
  8. G

    Removing Rubber Universal

    Give the manufacturer a ring - but advice on Fatso Jnr used to be to heat it up with a hairdryer to weaken the epoxy so u could break it out
  9. G

    Rivet Question

    If u don't thru bolt - go Monel rivets (much less problems than stainless and stronger than alum)
  10. G

    Keeping the daggerboard down

    Listen to this guy " It sounds like I have the same setup as you, but I have a little piece of line, 1/8" or smaller, that is tied like a retainer between the deck blocks. When you have your bungee rigged through there, it prevents it from getting caught in the vang at the leeward mark. " Just...
  11. G

    JC strap (again...)

    I don't know why its needed in a Laser because the loose mast tube allows the rig to settle into a stable position very quickly when bearing away. On a Finn or Europe, where there is minimal 'slop' in mast tube at deck level, I can see the need (as do others) and it works brilliantly. With the...
  12. G

    Trailers and Hull Damage

    Hey Do yourself (and your back and hull) a favour. Get a triangular planform dolly/launching trolley that supports the hull clear by posts each side and at bow. Arrange itso you can drag the dolly with the boatattached onto whatever trailer u use. (triangular "A frame" dolley much better for...
  13. G

    Competitive Weight

    See Article " The Ideal Laser Body by John Dawson Edwards originally appeared in the ILCA N.A. District 5 web site maintained by the author at Body weights and sailor heights from the 2000 Olympics published...
  14. G

    New blocks... not quite pro???

    Could probably get the boom closer to the deck with the old G clip blocks by packing out the G??
  15. G

    Laser storage above water

    If you have a triangular plan form dolly with under bow and side post supports you can strap the hull securely to this and pull it up almost vertical sea walls (and lower it into deep water from the top of these and the whole thing will float as long as it is strapped securely together). Can...