Recent content by Eddie_E

I have to wonder if you are using too big or too soft of a main sheet. I have the same cleat in the same spot and it's never an issue. If using a cheap 3/8 it could be an issue. I recommend trying some of the blue 5/16 Ozark Trail utility rope from Walmart. It only cost $3 and last more than a...

I'm not following the 3 loop setup. Are you guys saying you now rig with a traveler block like a Laser?

A brand new race cut sail is only $125 from Intensity. If the Sunfish hull weighs less than 140 lbs buy them.

I have a few thoughts on that old thread. First is that trying to cover up bad trim should not be the goal, as mentioned by Bill. However, with proper trim, it has a nice benefit. The idea that it's too expensive to glue a dowel into a hole and re-drill is silly. If you can't afford a $1 dowel...

I have a nice piece of Sapele that will be a rudder by Spring time. My current plan is to reduce the rake another 8 degrees and increase the volume only 5% or so. I'm not going to the full 90* angle, just based on my experience with another boat. A small amount of rake keeps the tiller from...

Lasers will always have a good resale market. However, some may find they can no longer ask $4K for a 20 year old heavily used boat.

I've sailed both setups and I don't find the old setup too bad. I do suspect the broken or bent masts from releasing the vang too late could be avoided for newer people. Of course I'm referring to club and regional racing, not the Olympics. Only in 23 knots or higher is the old setup harder to...

The reason is that it's hard to bring new blood into a class when you tell a new sailor that they need to spend another $500 to updated the vang and rigging, while at the same time telling those who are serious about racing that they can't have any new sail technology. The former keeps new guys...

If you really want to stick with a classic Laser design, I'm in. As long as we start by limiting the Vang to the original 4:1 and remove all the outhaul controls from the deck. Otherwise I'm buying an 8M fathead sail.

I think these should work.

It's possible to notch the bottom leading edge of the rudder (in the cassette) to change the angle 10 degrees or so. You do have to plug and re-drill the hole for the tiller strap to get the angle back to normal. Drilling the hole isn't hard all you need to do is tighten the 2 rudder strap bolts...

Boston is a terrible idea. There is an active sailing program run from the MIT boat house, but they mainly sail 420's in the Charles River. Most of the year, the river is narrow, dirty and cold. I work within bicycling distance of there and I won't sail my Laser there. Stick with the Southern...

I'm not a sailboat designer, but I noticed a trend while looking at boats from the 70's and 80's. The ones I looked at seem to have a max width for stability that doesn't increase with length as much as I expected. I saw 14' boats that were stable with a 6' beam and I saw boats at 17' and 19'...

Unfortunatley, the only way to tell if it's the bailer tube is leaking is to unscrew it and seal between the tub and the hull and re assemble. You need two 1" open end wrenches or 1 super thin walled socket, and 2 people to unscrew it. LaLi's method of putting water in the hull is what I did to...

There are many places. In high wind it could be the underside of the rail separating. In all winds it could be between the hulls from an over-tightened bailer tube. And the obvious place in the dagger board trunk. Bad O-ring on the drain plug?