Recent content by Eddie_E

It's very easy to do, just remember it will expand to 3 times the volume you put down. Moisture helps the expansion while curing. I wouldn't add any water in a Sunfish though. The damp air in most Sunfish hulls is more than enough moisture to expand and cure the glue. in addition to using this...

yes , Gorilla glue is one brand. They make a lot of different adhesives now though.

The brown polyurethane wood glue that looks like pancake syrup will hold it if you put a few beads of glue on the foam block and close it up overnight. The dampness in the foam will make the glue setup and fill the voids.

One other thing to check is that you didn't end up with a boat that somebody tried to use a 3/8 main sheet(rope). The biggest that slides through the Sunfish blocks without binding on the boom is 5/16 or 8mm. A main sheet that binds in the blocks will do all sorts of strange things. A Sunfish...

The white composite boards should weather fine. Wooden Sunfish daggers will cup so bad they won't fit in the slot ever again. Of course we only get 6 weeks of Summer here and then it's Winter again where I live. Florida might be different.

The sun will degrade the sail cloth in a few years. If you use the Intensity $130 sail and replace it every 4 years it will be fine.

The Harken 144 is too tall to release properly on a Sunfish. Stick to the Harken 240 for deck mounting on a Sunfish. If you run a 7mm or 5/16 main sheet, it releases fine when needed. I sail in up to 30 mph winds and I rarely have a capsize from cleating. I would recommend testing the fit of the...

It takes around 6 ounces of Flex seal before the solvent dries, so maybe 4 ounces when dry.

I use to dremel and gel coat the tub cracks. That works but it's expensive and sometimes fails with repeated flexing. Paint has the odd issue of following the small cracks. My new method works much better. I tape 3" up from the bottom of the tub all the way around the perimeter. Remove the...

The reality is that most local club racing that doesn't have trophys is done with a mix of North and Intensity race sails. In fact I have been to a few clubs where the Intensity race sail is the "normal" sail. Neither has any advantage except the Intensity being a $150 race sail that lasts 5...

My wooden dolly is the A-frame design and I put a cross brace around half way to the wheels. I step on that brace with one foot to sink it while I yank the bow handle forward to load. It works well, but the next time I build one, I will leave off the cradle strap and cut a shallow V in a 2x6 and...

I have exactly the same Laser except mine is a 82' model. From what I could find with my serial number, I believe mine was made in Canada. It's possible to paint the hull, I sure did. Keep an eye on the seam between the top deck and bottom. The good news is those boats have a strong mast step...

I also forgot to mention the Bondo short strand reinforced fiberglass is thick enough to use on the matching crack at the bottom rear of the dagger board slot in your hull, even if you grind through a hair at the back where it's thin.

I used to do those repairs like the video. Now I just use short strand reinforced fiberglass that is pre-mixed. It's much easier to work with than it sounds. I like the Bondo brand, but it's NOT the body filler. It's a proper structural fiberglass. It shapes easily after 40 minutes with 60 grit...

For those of you who want a deep rich shine with a cheap paint, I found it. Majic Tractor paint is amazing when thinned 5% with xylene and rolled with a tight grained foam enamel roller or brushed. I used the bright red for a waterline stripe on my Flying Scot and it was better to work with...