TonyW
I agree that removing the base plug and forcing the top mast out with a piece of 38x38 brandering (timber) should do the trick. I strongly advise not to heat up the mast above 100 deg C (water boiling point) as the aluminium tube has been heat tempered to improve it's structural...
ILCA Rule 4.b states: "Sail numbers from 131000, sails purchased after 1st June 1993 and new sails stamped “New Numbers” shall have numbers that are clearly visible with the last four digits of the number in one dark, distinctive colour or black and any preceding numbers in a different...
I like the top-section sleeve idea ahead of a c/f top-section, mainly because it can be retro-fitted, also cheap & simple. It would need to be a purpose-made section to fit exactly into the top-section for it to be effective.
Will try sailing with a gybe-preventer bungee before commenting...
Here are some pics that I have been meaning to post of a trailer I built using info gleaned from various threads on this site; It started out as a single-boat trailer, hull up on gunwale supports; then (predictably) we bought a second laser and added the square hollow tube frames and wooden...
go to Rooster Sailing site at http://www.roostersailing.com/merchant2/videos/sidedeckcleats.swf for where & how to best attach side deck cleats.
Andrew
I have done 2 mast step repairs, both on pre-80's hulls. In both cases the mast had worn through the bottom of the mast tube, allowing water into the hull and saturating the plywood block. The block itself is not what holds the mast base in place alone, it's the glass & resin that does, together...
I'm sure you'll find this info elsewhere on this site, but since you asked, I just measured the full rig bottom section at 63.4mm (2.5") OD & 57.1mm (2.25") ID.
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