Buying Used Sunfish - Questions

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William Carwile

New Member
Hello All!

I am new to the forum and hopefully soon to boat owning. When i was young I had a sunfish and now in my later years i'm thinking of getting a new one.

I looked today at a used sunfish for $600 but I was unsure if the damage i saw would be a problem and was hoping to get some input.

The hull number was 100739

1. the bottom of the boat had a lot of flex in it. The top was very solid
2. There was cracking in the hull almost like a cracked eggshell. Nothing that penetrated through the boat as far as i could tell.
3. It weight 150lbs when i put the hull on a scale. (my understanding is it should be around 120)
4. There was a chuck missing in the daggerboard slot that i thought could be concerning.
e1YU5d
IMG 4789
5. the autobailer seemed like it was corroded shut. but I had a different type on my sunfish as a kid so im not sure how it was supposed to work.

I would love to get some input. Please let me know!
 
Ouch; I would stay away from that one. The daggerboard slot issue isn't minor and the hull has picked up significant water.

Even with a trailer, $600 is too much money for a 70s Sunfish that needs work.

(Quote)
Hello All!

I am new to the forum and hopefully soon to boat owning. When i was young I had a sunfish and now in my later years i'm thinking of getting a new one.

I looked today at a used sunfish for $600 but I was unsure if the damage i saw would be a problem and was hoping to get some input.

The hull number was 100739

1. the bottom of the boat had a lot of flex in it. The top was very solid

I put "The Ultimate Inspection Port" in the cockpit bulkhead. While sailing, significant flexing of the bottom can be seen. I'd stored my paddle in there, and it moved up and down even in light air. The deck seems reasonably solid in all of my six Sunfish.

2. There was cracking in the hull almost like a cracked eggshell. Nothing that penetrated through the boat as far as i could tell.

Those areas, which are in each of my Sunfish, feel soft when pushed. Leaks are unlikely there.

3. It weighs 150lbs when i put the hull on a scale. (my understanding is it should be around 120)

4. There was a chunk missing in the daggerboard slot that i thought could be concerning.
e1YU5d
IMG 4789

Yeah, it's taken a "hit" in a complex location, and needs a careful repair.

5. the autobailer seemed like it was corroded shut. but I had a different type on my sunfish as a kid so im not sure how it was supposed to work.

If it's aluminum, it's the old De Persia bailer. If it's not leaking, you can leave it in place until the tools are gathered for a gentle disassembly during the off-season. Restoring Metal DePersia Bailer with Plastic Bailer Parts | SailingForums.com

If you don't sell the recovered De Persia bailer on eBay, odd parts have to be located to put it back in operation. Most complain it's too small for adequate bailing anyway, and replace it with the newer plastic bailer. (But plastic is not immune to its own issues, which can be researched here). In my regularly-sailed Sunfish, bailers are all replaced with $6 automobile rubber "freeze plugs".

I would love to get some input. Please let me know!

There are good Sunfish mouldering all over the US. Put a Craigslist, "Wanted: Sunfish" ad in, with a $250 offer. I haven't paid more than $250 for any of my six Sunfish—and got one with a trailer, which I sold. (Making my daily Sunfish-sailer a $200 buy). :cool:

 
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