What size inspection port?

Merrily

Administrator
I'm going to put a port in for the storage and to make sure my boat is dry. I don't want freezing water to damage the fiberglass. I see that it is legal to use up to a 6 inch inspection port. Is that the BEST size?

Also, in the 6 inch, there is a "cat bag" and a "fat bag" available. What's the diff?
 
Merrily. 6" is HUGE.

most common is 4", I recommend 5" ports.

That way you can fit your arm AND elbow inside, where a 4" is pretty tight.


Never even seen a 6" hole saw, so maybe you'd just use a 'Sawz All" to cut the hole? 5" hole saws are expensive enough as is.
 
WestCoast said:
Never even seen a 6" hole saw, so maybe you'd just use a 'Sawz All" to cut the hole? 5" hole saws are expensive enough as is.

George,
I planned to let my husband loose with a drill and saber saw, so that is not an issue.
 
Merrily said:
George,
I planned to let my husband loose with a drill and saber saw, so that is not an issue.

I have been corrected. We'll be using a 5 inch hole saw. This is going to be perfect.
 
We have 5" inspection ports on the forward starboard (angled) area of the cockpit on our practice and competition hulls, next to the centerboard trunk. You can use a sabre saw, or a 5" hole saw if you have one. Don't use rivets. Just apply 5200 or other marine adhesive/sealant all the way around the port collar, press in place until the adhesive squeezes out from all around, and allow to cure. We've never had a problem with leaks.

The "fat bag" has a 5" ring that fits into the inspection port seat, then the bag expands to a "fatter" closed end for more volume. Its outrageously expensive (about $30) but I can fit three water bottles plus my power bars and other energy items, sunscreen, etc. no problem. My wife somehow even manages to fit her spray top in there :)

Those of us without coach or support boats find them essential for long practices and all day on the water regattas.

Mike S
121384
 
Ok, so I've gone to APS to order and they have a 5 inch port, fat bag, and "O" ring for sale. The first two things I understand--what is the "O" for? Is it a replacement item that I don't need right now?
 
Merrily-

The 'O' ring will fit around the inspection port lid/cover. the idea is when you screw the lid down into the threads, the 'o' ring will seal up, helping to prevent leaks.

They stretch out and get lost more often than you think, but when you cut holes in the boat, you want to work hard to keep water OUT. So if it's a couple cents of the purchase price, go ahead and get one.
 
WestCoast said:
Merrily-

The 'O' ring will fit around the inspection port lid/cover. the idea is when you screw the lid down into the threads, the 'o' ring will seal up, helping to prevent leaks.

They stretch out and get lost more often than you think, but when you cut holes in the boat, you want to work hard to keep water OUT. So if it's a couple cents of the purchase price, go ahead and get one.

So one is not included with the port?
 
I use Viking 5", and fat bag, but NOT next to the centerboard, as that bashes your knee. I put it on the right of the compass, half way to the mast.

I cut with a drill, then power jig saw. I tape the bottom of the saw with something, so it doesn't mark the deck. Lots of 5200, no rivets or bolts.

The bag must be the same brand as the port, to work well. Viking comes out easier than RKO, which I like as I store the boat with port open, bag out. I use white, but Paige uses a bold black.

Al Russell 182797 (and occasionally other numbers, like 166188)
 
The good thing about Al's suggestion for placement location is that it enables you to reinforce the mast step if necesssary but more importantly by taking it away from the centerboard area you don't drive your knee through the inspection port cover which is NOT available as a separate part - you have to buy the complete assembly just to get another cover.
 
Yes. I get 1/4 inch aircraft ply (model airplane supplies) and make a segmented ring to epoxy under the deck and give the screws something to grab (more secure than just the fiberglass). Coat the plywood with more epoxy to waterproof it.
 
Do you use screws to hold the inspection port in place?
Yes, but only as a mounting help really. It's the silicone (or whatever sealant you're using) that does the job, after it's cured. See also halibut's and vtgent's posts above.
I get 1/4 inch aircraft ply (model airplane supplies) and make a segmented ring to epoxy under the deck and give the screws something to grab (more secure than just the fiberglass). Coat the plywood with more epoxy to waterproof it.
This would be complete overkill and a lot of useless work. An inspection port is not a loaded fitting.
 
"Inspection ports not exceeding 153 mm internal diameter may be installed on the deck or in the cockpit to provide access to the hull cavity, provided that any inspection port is fitted with watertight threaded covers (any bayonet mounted parts are deemed to be not threaded). Storage receptacles are permitted underneath hatch covers." (Section 20 part 3 of the laser Class rules)

153 is 5" hatch so 6" would be out of class, I can't understand why only 5"?

6"would be so much easier to do repairs through, and as Lali says there is little load on them unless placed too close to the mast hole which no one is really likely to do.
 

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