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Yes, there's a small block there. I've used it this way a few years' ago, knowing it was not right. It would be quite a job to remove the wire - I wouldn't like to do it. I can see drawing the wire loop through the block and coming back up to attach to the hook, but how would I attach the cord to the wire loop to be able to draw it through?The halyard should run inside the mast, come out through the exit block, do a 180° and attach to the hook. It's the wire that's installed wrong, not the fittings.
What do you have at the top of the mast? Isn't there a similar exit block up there?
How so? If it's external, what's the trouble?It would be quite a job to remove the wire - I wouldn't like to do it.
By splicing or sewing. I think the original Laser 2 halyard tails were three-strand ropes (like your vang) spliced to the wires. What does your jib halyard look like?how would I attach the cord to the wire loop to be able to draw it through?
Here's the pic of the top of the mast. Yes, it's inside the mast. Sewing into the wire sounds like beyond my capabilities.More pictures please. Of the mast top, and how the halyard runs from there.
How so? If it's external, what's the trouble?
If with "removing" you mean threading it inside the mast (where it belongs), then yes, it is a little tricky, but not impossibly hard by any means. The two-part mast of the Laser 2 actually makes it easier.
By splicing or sewing. I think the original Laser 2 halyard tails were three-strand ropes (like your vang) spliced to the wires. What does your jib halyard look like?
Your current main halyard tail doesn't look very spliceable, so you'd probably have to sew it into a loop around the wire.
That's exactly how my 470 was set up. A small diameter line that was spliced to the small loop on one end of the wire. This made up the total of the jib halyard.I think the original Laser 2 halyard tails were three-strand ropes (like your vang) spliced to the wires.
The jib halyard wire is not in the mast. See my other inquiry for jib.That's exactly how my 470 was set up. A small diameter line that was spliced to the small loop on one end of the wire. This made up the total of the jib halyard.
When not rigged, what exited the sheave at the bottom of the mast was the small diameter line section of the jib halyard. When rigging the boat you attached the wired end of the halyard to the head of the jib and raised the jib by pulling the end of the halyard with the line on it from the bottom of the mast.
And right as the wire that ran through the leading edge of the jib became tight, the looped end of the wire section of the halyard would appear from the sheave at the bottom of the mast. Give a good tug upwards on the halyard and place that wire loop over a hook on a separate multi purchase device that allowed you to really tighten the wire running through the leading edge of the jib that was attached to the wire section of the halyard.
And, voila... you now had, in effect, a nice, tight "forestay" supporting your mast. As Lali has pointed out, there's no way the current set up will work on your boat. You need a small diameter line spliced to the loop on the end of the wire in your photo. So that it can pass through the small opening at the bottom of the sheave in the photo.
- Andy
I have, and I would NOT recommend it! The author just doesn't know very well how a Laser 2 (or any other boat of its type) works. There is some pretty crappy advice there.
Yes. I saw it, read it over and over, printed it, read it again and again and again. The problem with instructions like this is it is written by an expert, for experienced sailers! There's not enough pictures and detailed instructions written in non-technical English so the non-experienced laser owner can understand it. I don't need the trapeze and spinnaker instructions; I do need more pictures and details on the outhaul setup. I know you're not responsible for this guide; I'm just venting at all the authors of guides, whether for rigging, for computers, printers, etc., that don't write for their intended audience. I guess that's why there's so many of "The Dummy" books sold.
I suspected something like that, which is why I wanted the photographic evidence. Thanks for confirming it!the sheeve on the top of the mast is a bit offset to allow the halyard to enter the top of the lower mast section.
Now that we've determined that the halyard rigging is all wrong, and since I'm not about to undo everything and attempt to install it in the mast until late fall, what can I do with the wire loop as shown in my first post to secure the mainsail?I suspected something like that, which is why I wanted the photographic evidence. Thanks for confirming it!
These are my final pics with a last few questions:I've never seen a boat this old in the UK, my mast plug is rivetted in....
However getting rivets out is really easy, just use a 10mm drill to remove the heads and then drill through with the size the rivets are, or punch the remains out.
As a long time boat bimbler I have a pop rivet gun and a large selection of rivets, come in really handy!!
BTW, you do not have to put stainless steel rivets in, aluminium will do fine for the sheave box and you will not have eletrolysis problems.
I'd actually like to see how the traveller is rigged. That's the only thing I see is wrong with the original manual: it lists quite a few options, none of which does the job very well.Let me know if I'm missing any pictures.
This would be pretty much perfect: Harken 29mm Bullet Block for WireTo your point #1 above, what size block or type to get?
Thank you for all your assistance and advice. I'll let you know how everything works...Ok, that's rigged like a Laser traveller. In the Laser, you want the traveller block almost always to be as far outboard and as low as possible. The Laser 2, however, has a sloop rig which means the boom is sheeted on the centreline up to fully powered conditions, and even when overpowered, you use the mainsheet as the sideways adjustment by keeping the vang tight. This means you don't want the traveller block to "travel" sideways at all, and you want it to be as high as possible. Which is the opposite what yours is doing.
What you want is essentially this: http://laser2.est.org/rigging/Traveler.png
In short, the smaller traveller block is removed, the larger one is tied so that it's always on the centreline, and the tails of the line are taken through the same fairlead and tied together. If you can unscrew the hook from the larger block, fine, but you can keep it, too. If your existing line is too short, don't worry, just extend it with another piece.
This would be pretty much perfect: Harken 29mm Bullet Block for Wire
Here's the redone Traveller.Thank you for all your assistance and advice. I'll let you know how everything works...
Norm
Wrong picture.Here's the redone Traveller.
The rope is 3mm. Is bowline the smallest knot that can be used?Traveller: now you're halfway there - the block doesn't move along the line anymore, but the line itself will move from tack to tack. Just copy the setup that I linked to in post #25 and you'll be all set.
Halyard: it's about how thick your halyard tail is. Harken classic bullet blocks have an opening of about 10 mm, and if you want a bowline to go through, the rope can't be more than 3 mm thick (just tested). 4 mm is ok if you sew or splice it to the wire.
Several different knots that could be used for this are just about equally bulky, but the idea with the bowline is that you can make it into a long loop (in this case, at least 5 cm), so you wouldn't be pulling the knotted point in the line and the actual wire/rope joint through the block at the same time.Is bowline the smallest knot that can be used?
Not tied. Sewn or spliced.... how is the rope tied onto the wire loop in order to allow it to pass through the small block at the base of the mast?