Who is right?

Discussion in 'Sunfish Talk' started by MUDSUX, Mar 25, 2015.

  1. MUDSUX

    MUDSUX New Member

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    IMAG0712.jpg IMAG0714.jpg IMAG0715.jpg IMAG0716.jpg IMAG0720.jpg I just bought a Sunfish and the previous owner tells me it is a '68. I tell him I don't think so but he is convinced from the serial number it is a '68. I think the boat has been repainted so not sure the stripes is of any help. I told him it couldn't be that old since it has the newer rudder setup and a compartment aft of the cockpit. Did I get lucky and got a newer sunfish?
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2015
  2. danpal

    danpal Active Member

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    Well, based on the serial number it's definitely newer than a '68. There seem to be some characters missing from the end of the serial number since there should be a year and letter after the "M", similar to AMF12345M73A. My guess is it's a '75 or '76 especially since it has the storage compartment and the newer rudder.
     
  3. cnovark

    cnovark Member

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    Cockpit storage means 72 or newer I believe. I can't make out the serial number very well.
     
  4. beldar boathead

    beldar boathead Well-Known Member

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    That boat originally had a yellow deck and I believe an orange hull, but it could have been white. Based on that color scheme it is a '75 or '76 I think (memory is fading.)
     
  5. MUDSUX

    MUDSUX New Member

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    There are some scrapes on the bottom of the hull and it is indeed orange, same as the cockpit. Whoever repainted it did a terrible job with the pin striping. It's not even straight on the sides. Now I have to google what the original Sunfish color scheme looked like as I would like to restore to original. I think there is a loose foam block in the full. I hear something rattling around in there and one side of the hull is softer than the other. Not sure why they put a port on the starboard side, I didn't see anything wrong or loose looking inside. Wished they did it behind the coaming.

    I wonder why the serial numbers are missing? Maybe it's covered in white paint. Anyway what's the best way to strip and what paint should I get? I have been trying to read all the posts on here the last few weeks before making the purchase. There is so much information. Good news is that the hull only weighs 135 lbs.
     
  6. jimcameron

    jimcameron Member

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    It looks good. I wouldn't angst about restoring it to "original". I'd be inclined to just go sailing.
     
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  7. sailcraftri

    sailcraftri Well-Known Member

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    Probably orange hull and cockpit, yellow deck with orange stripes. I can post a photo of one I owned later.
     
  8. MUDSUX

    MUDSUX New Member

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    I want to too! I have been staring at it for days in my back yard. I have an order in for a new sail, the RWB one that's on sale from Intensity Sails, and a 2 loop bridle. I am afraid if I sail it with a loose block it will damage the hull.
     
  9. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    It is a mid 70s boat like BB said. Pre 71 boats did not have storage compartments and there is no old style rudder fitting cutout on the stern where the bronze deck plate would have sat. Hull ID numbers started in the earlier 70s.

    Model Year "M" Format was typically used for Sunfish during the 70s: AMF12345M73A= AMF (Manufacturer ID), 1235 (Hull Number), M (Model Year Format), 73 (Model Year), A (Month of production).
    (10th & 11th digits are year). You are missing a number and the letter for production month).

    That port is probably there so they could get to backer blocks on the halyard fairlead and cleat.

    You could sand a test area with 120 grit on a DA sander, maybe the stern, and see if the orange gelcoat looks good underneath it. Then maybe along the chine. Those areas blend back in well if you repaint vs sanding the entire deck or hull. If you like what you see, keep sanding ALL of the paint off and wet sand the old gelcoat back into shape. If you start turning up different color repaired areas, you'll either need to find a gelcoat pro who can match the original color or prime and repaint.

    I will say that you will not damage the hull by sailing with a loose block, but it may be a little noisier bumping across the wave tops. Which side feels softer?

    And if your hull is 135 that is a great hull. Good thick fiberglass but not too much expanding foam inside which could hold water.

    Go sailing and save the big projects for the Winter.
    k
     
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  10. MUDSUX

    MUDSUX New Member

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    I looked inside that starboard port, the previous owner placed it outward of the foam block. There is no way to reach the halyard fairlead and cleat. The block is in the way. Still can't figure out why he put it there.

    I installed a 6" port behind the coaming yesterday. The wooden block for the halyard cleat and fairlead has rotted and fallen off. There was nothing holding the them on. I put aluminum backing plates for the cleat and fairlead so that should hold up for a while.

    Looking in there further this is what I find:
    DSCN5560.JPG

    The foam blocks are loose. The left block is only held in place by the expanding foam on top. There is none on the bottom. The block moves freely so that is why my hull is soft. Will place an order for the 4 lbs foam from US composite soon. Just not sure why the bottoms where not done.

    Oh and I fell out of the boat twice today during a tack :D Didn't turtle it thank goodness.
     
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  11. tag

    tag my2fish

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    That is odd to see no foam on the bottom... perhaps just an oversight that day at the Sunfish factory?
    I did the foam repair a couple years ago for my late 1960's Sunfish - it wasn't too bad, and definitely helped stiffen things up.
    https://my2fish.wordpress.com/2010/08/16/foam-block-reset/

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. MUDSUX

    MUDSUX New Member

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    Thanks Tag. I have read through a few post about resetting the blocks but have not seen yours. I just ordered the foam from US Composites yesterday. Shipping to my house costs half as much as the product, and they are only a few hours drive away from me! :eek: I am hoping the smallest bottles are enough.
     
  13. MUDSUX

    MUDSUX New Member

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    Would it be easier to use paint stripper or will that damage the fiberglass or gelcoat?
     
  14. Steve523

    Steve523 New Member

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    Paint stripper over glass or plastic requires special chemistry, the wrong stuff may wreak havoc. Automotive paint suppliers sell stripper designed to work on Corvettes and plastic trim.
     

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