Which Mainsheet Block?? Orbit? Carbo?

BJ, have you tried it in the auto-ratchet mode? That's what I use, and it's hard for me to imagine a reason why not to? I have gotten used to it with Harken auto's.

Al
 
I didn't think this block HAD an auto-ratchet mode. I thought it was ratchet-on or ratchet-off. This might well explain why I was having trouble. Obviously, I need to read the directions again.

PS: your rudder blade is all boxed up, I just have to drop it off at UPS.
 
I didn't think this block HAD an auto-ratchet mode. I thought it was ratchet-on or ratchet-off. This might well explain why I was having trouble. Obviously, I need to read the directions again.

PS: your rudder blade is all boxed up, I just have to drop it off at UPS.
ROFLOL yeah its got auto and manual! Let us know how that auto works out for yah
 
The directions are a bit confusing. (you could just read my long boring post above, lol). The Auto setting involves sliding both red buttons to lock in the ratchet on-off lever in place. It's twice as hard to do on the water, so forget that idea.

After you try that, you may want to go back to the 7mm rooster, to reduce the fricton on the blocks, etc. I actually use a 1/4 Yale light, because it floats. I have just ordered another non-absorbing sheet, in anticipation of wear, basically so I don't care if it wears, as I want the friction to save the grip tendons, etc.

Al

p.s. glad you got the new rudder figured out.
 
I used the block in auto-ratchet mode last night.

Once it was set, I pretty much didn't think about the mainsheet or the mainsheet block all night. That's good. It means it's working as designed. Final word: Two sailing-gloved-thumbs up.
 
what was your old block moose? the old ronstan/freddie?

how does it compare to your old block? do you notice more holding power? arms less tired?
 
Old worn out harken ratchet block (the old kind, not the new carbo-ratchamatic)

After I took it off, I noticed the nubs/gnurls that are designed to bite into the sheet were noticeably worn down.

So yeah, I'd say I'm holding the (new fatter) mainsheet now with less than half the effort it used to require. My hands and wrists are not in pain at the end of the night.
 
What were the conditions on the water? How much breeze?
It's shoreline lake in Mountain View and it was a pretty typical night. Let's say 15 avg, lulls to 10, big lulls to 5 or less, gusts to 20.

It's a small lake with no fetch, so the water's *very* flat even when the breeze is up.
 
I bought the orbit after all and it works really well for me.

The switch on the thing really isnt that complicated and I might consider making an adjustment on the water during a race. It's a little harder when you just use one hand but its alright.

I like how, with the stand up boot it sits straight up facing backwards all the time. The boot is a little big to be used on a laser, but thats OK. The metal eyelet that came with the block is too big to use on the laser, so you have to use the stock one thats alread on there. Make sure you bend the edges because its really sharp and will cut the dyneema link. No big deal. Do that and file the edges down.

The block rotates about 110 degrees to each side, It won't spin around all the way because of the link.

The autoratchet works well.

In heavy wind the block grips really well on my 7mm black and red rooster sheet.
 
Just an update on the Ronstan Orbit - Mine stopped functioning about a week ago, I wish I could tell you exactly how many hours of use, a rough guess is somewhere between 150-200 hours. I used the block only in auto-ratchet mode.

It started with the ratchet not engaging, just freewheeling. Naturally this was happening with the wind blowing 20+ With less load, it was occasionally working correctly, but then completely stop functioning after another 2 hours of use...
 
I find using the ratchet function on the main sheet block extremely inconvenient. I was sailing in puffy wind the other day and I had the ratchet on and because I couldn't disengage the ratchet in time i capsized. I know others have different opinions but, I prefer main sheet cleats they are so much more convenient and you can adjust the main so much easier, and if the wind gets puffy you can sheet out with a ratchet you probably wouldn't have enough time to disengage it. So to me it makes more sense to use main sheet cleats.
 
you always use ratchet, if you need to let out the main, you just let it out
 
Just an update on the Ronstan Orbit - Mine stopped functioning about a week ago, I wish I could tell you exactly how many hours of use, a rough guess is somewhere between 150-200 hours. I used the block only in auto-ratchet mode.

It started with the ratchet not engaging, just freewheeling. Naturally this was happening with the wind blowing 20+ With less load, it was occasionally working correctly, but then completely stop functioning after another 2 hours of use...

THE SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME! Now I use the block that came with my boat. The Ronstan block was AMAZING while it worked but seriously guys if it happened to both of us there must be something wrong with the block. I have used mine for 700-900 hours.

The day before a regatta when i was out practicing it just started locking up entirely and i would have to wiggle it around in order for it to start rolling again. I do not believe that any of this is due to bad maintenance.

I didnt know what i was getting myself into when i started this thread :p
 
Thanks for the update, I was just about to order an Orbit now I have second thoughts - what is a good autoratchet alternative that will help me keep my grip on the main in 15-20 kts during a regatta!

thanks
 
Normally when stuff breaks after just a year, I just blow it off and buy another.

But with a newly introduced product like this, you might want to go the extra step of sending the broken ones off to Ronstan so they can figure out what's up and make improvements. If the thing isn't up to the job, they should get a fair crack at fixing it.
 
I had this Orbit block for about 15 races (two regattas), at least 10 of which were in 20+ knots.
Long story short - I did not like the block and got rid of it and returned to the standard Harken ratchet.

1. This thing caused substantial wear on my new main sheet. I estimated that new rooster 7mm? line that comes with new boats would hold about 25-35 good races at most with this block.
2. I did not like the automatic mode since it changed feel on the mainsheet in a rather unpredictable manner. So I tried to set the block to manual ratchet-on mode and many times this setting somehow would switch itself to no-ratchet or auto mode during a race, which infintly pissed me off.

The reason for buying the block was its holding power, and it really holds well.
But this benefit comes with high price of sheet wear and the moronic switch design.
Instead I bought second sheet for heavy weather, 9mm, almost twice cheaper than the block. So far very happy.
 
I am using a 6 yr old Rooster 7mm sheet with the Orbit - I don't see any accellerated wear on mine after approx 200 hours racing.
 
I am using a 6 yr old Rooster 7mm sheet with the Orbit - I don't see any accellerated wear on mine after approx 200 hours racing.

May be old rooster lines were tougher :rolleyes:
Here is the worn segment of my sheet after 3 weeks of racing:
 

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Normally when stuff breaks after just a year, I just blow it off and buy another.

But with a newly introduced product like this, you might want to go the extra step of sending the broken ones off to Ronstan so they can figure out what's up and make improvements. If the thing isn't up to the job, they should get a fair crack at fixing it.

Good point! If you return the block, maybe you will get a new one for free (if you ask nicely).
 
I used the Orbit for about two races and had to stop as the spectra strop had almost worn through, and I was afraid it would break without notice, and I had filed down my eyestrap a bit. For those of you that have used it for extended periods of time, what did you do to prevent the wear on the spectra strop?
 
you can either use the Ronstan supplied eye (you have to work it a bit to match up the hole spacing) or you need to remove the edges on the OEM Laser eye strap until have nice rounded radius on top and bottom almost right down to the screwholes. I also wrapped mine with some reinforced packing tape.
 
Normally when stuff breaks after just a year, I just blow it off and buy another.

But with a newly introduced product like this, you might want to go the extra step of sending the broken ones off to Ronstan so they can figure out what's up and make improvements. If the thing isn't up to the job, they should get a fair crack at fixing it.

Ronstan was/is aware of the design issues with the ratchet mechanism. They have already changed a spring inside which should address the type of failure I saw, and they will be changing the switch design later this year so it's less prone to accidentally changing modes.
 
Not a big fan of auto mode. When I round the leeward mark, the block will let out, and ratchet in. I want it to not let out, and ratchet in. That little stopper is pretty cool though...
 
I have not had the Ronstan block freewheel when sheeting in at leeward marks. If you are pulling fast enough, that's more then enough load to keep the ratchet engaged.
 
Its the most logical thing to do you don't have to go all crazy. Keep it in free wheel and use the cleats ratchet is pointless!:):):):):):)
 
Exactly. Why even buy a ratchet block? Think of all the money you can save by just installing a plain ball bearing block! It's like 1975 all over again!

Anybody have an answer for the original question to help out sk8ing?
 

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