what is this thing?
- Thread starter preston
- Start date
Strumy
Member
hey, this little brass things purpose is to put the main sheet under the hook to provide some leverage on it. i would HIGHLY suggest that you unscew it and install a mainsheet block. its a fairly simple job that involves few parts or expertise, and your knees will thank you in the months to come!
mike4947
Member
I agree whole heartly. I can show you the 3 inch scar on my knee from that %#%^% hook.
mike4947
Member
019 Harken Hexaratchet, mounting is an eye strap, spring and two stainless bolts/nuts/lockwashers. Holes are drill in the leading edge of the deck over the cockpit.
As an addition you can add either clam cleats or cam cleats to the outboard edge of the cockpit lip to hold the mainsheet. Angled blocks and riser blocks are available so the mainsheet and cleats are at the correct angle with each other.
As an addition you can add either clam cleats or cam cleats to the outboard edge of the cockpit lip to hold the mainsheet. Angled blocks and riser blocks are available so the mainsheet and cleats are at the correct angle with each other.
mike4947
Member
The eye strap is mounted on the deck over the area that is exposed to the cockpit. The coil spring sits on top of the eye strap and keep the block vertical when there isn't any load on it.
As for the block you mention, remember the Harken isn't just a block. It has a ratchet built in and a textured sheave that grips the mainsheet.
Even the $^%^ hook is actually better than a straight block. The hook provides some friction between the mainsheet and it, to take a little strain off your arm. The ratchet block, when on, takes almost all the strain. A regular block with it's free spinning sheave means your arm has to provide ALL the force all the time.
As for the block you mention, remember the Harken isn't just a block. It has a ratchet built in and a textured sheave that grips the mainsheet.
Even the $^%^ hook is actually better than a straight block. The hook provides some friction between the mainsheet and it, to take a little strain off your arm. The ratchet block, when on, takes almost all the strain. A regular block with it's free spinning sheave means your arm has to provide ALL the force all the time.
Amen to the mike4947 post. The spring is called a "stand up spring."
As Mike said, the block gives a lot of one-way friction resistance to the main sheet when the sheet is pulling out, but none when you want to pull it in. The resistance (ratchet) can also be turned on and off with a little slide switch on the block. Look at the block in the store or the Harken catalog.
Fred
As Mike said, the block gives a lot of one-way friction resistance to the main sheet when the sheet is pulling out, but none when you want to pull it in. The resistance (ratchet) can also be turned on and off with a little slide switch on the block. Look at the block in the store or the Harken catalog.
Fred
imported_Scott
Member
Instead of the washers underneath, you can use a block of hardwood or a stainless steel plate. I think this distributes the load more evenly. The Harken Hexaratchet has a 10:1 holding ratio. It also has a swith to turn it "off" so it spins freely. Worth every penny! I ripped up my knees for almost 30 years with that *^$*^%$* hook.
Scott
Scott
supercub
Member
Preston,
Go to the APS website (http://www.apsltd.com/Home.asp), look under One Design Parts, Sunfish and check out the Sunfish Photo Album, specifically pictures 5, 6, and 18. The block shown is not a Harken Hex Ratchet (009 or 019), but is similar and the pictures do shown the mounting location of the eye strap. The spring mentioned sits on the eye strap screws and pushes up against the bottom of the block, (the block is attached to the eye strap through the spring), holding it upright so it does not flop around on the deck.
One additional note about the Photo Album. Picture 25 is sideways and needs to be rotated 90 degrees to the left to be correct. The cap with eye is on the boom (lower spar) in picture 3.
I also agree with Mike Fred and Scott on backing up the bottom side for the bolts. I have used stainless steel fender washers on one boat and a stainless steel plate on another, I like the plate better. The Harken Hexratchet block come in 2 sizes, 019 at 2-1/4" (most popular and a little less expensive) and the 009 at 3". Some recomend the 009 for heavy winds and the 019 for lighter winds, but changing them out is a pain (plus double the cost). I have used the 019 in all conditions and have not had a problem.
Go to the APS website (http://www.apsltd.com/Home.asp), look under One Design Parts, Sunfish and check out the Sunfish Photo Album, specifically pictures 5, 6, and 18. The block shown is not a Harken Hex Ratchet (009 or 019), but is similar and the pictures do shown the mounting location of the eye strap. The spring mentioned sits on the eye strap screws and pushes up against the bottom of the block, (the block is attached to the eye strap through the spring), holding it upright so it does not flop around on the deck.
One additional note about the Photo Album. Picture 25 is sideways and needs to be rotated 90 degrees to the left to be correct. The cap with eye is on the boom (lower spar) in picture 3.
I also agree with Mike Fred and Scott on backing up the bottom side for the bolts. I have used stainless steel fender washers on one boat and a stainless steel plate on another, I like the plate better. The Harken Hexratchet block come in 2 sizes, 019 at 2-1/4" (most popular and a little less expensive) and the 009 at 3". Some recomend the 009 for heavy winds and the 019 for lighter winds, but changing them out is a pain (plus double the cost). I have used the 019 in all conditions and have not had a problem.