split centerboard

Allatoona

Member
I split my centerboard on the beach. I beached the boat, and forgot to lock the centerboard up. A wave hit and turned the boat slightly, just enough to pick it up and allow the centerboard to drop and get pinched sideways. It is still pretty stable and I sailed it as-is several more times.

I have a friend that will check and see how easily it can be repaired. Hopefully, it isn't too bad off. The split is about 12" or so.

-Robert
1989 Catalina Capri 14.2 Mod II
1984 Catalina 22'
 

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Ouch. Tough damage to the depthfinder. Does the crack go all the way through? Does anyone know what is inside of the CB. Someone had a post about making a new one with a sheet of steel in the center, If mine had to be rebuilt, I think I would try adding as much weight as I could.
 
It is split on both sides, but I can not see through the split. I could see some metal inside. Even though it is split it is still strong. I used it for two days after I cracked it.

I use the boat for fun and racing so I want the boat light. If I need more weight I can hike out and extend the tiller extension. I am not worried too much about capsizing, so adding more weight to the centerboard would not be something I would consider. I have stood the boat up on the rail many times and had water come over the seat several times without capsizing-- the boat loses all it's speed when this happens so I try to avoid this. I have had my share of capsizing and a turtle once.

I am taking it to a friend this weekend, I'm sure it won't be too difficult to fill and fix with some fiberglass repair.
 
board repair

I have repaired my board. It has a foam core, and there are some vertical reinforcing wires, at least near the top.
My 2 cents:
Drill a 1/4" hole thru the board just past the end of the crack to make sure it propogates no further. Make sure the foam is dry. Also make sure the crack is wide enough to accept some liguid epoxy. Bevel both faces of the crack about 3/8" deep and 3/4" wide at the top.
A dremel tool with grind wheel makes very quick work. Use 105 West System epoxy and coat the foam all the way thru. Then add a little 407 filler to thicken the epoxy and fill the bevels. Tape a piece of stiff plastic bond release over the smoothed out epoxy putty (both sides). Clamp the repair front to back. Cures solid in 6 or 7 hours. You may need a second pass to fill any low spots. Wash with soap and water before second application. Sand with 60 then 120 then 400 then 600 then paint. Cure final coat 24 hours before sailing.
If you have never used Epoxy, go to: West System.com for user manual.
West System G Flex Epoxy will also work well. It is a little more flixible but not quite as strong and is sold in smaller quantities.
Good luck!
 
Board repair 2

The split you show should not affect the lateral board stiffness much as long as the core is not degraded.
If the board is stiff, the G flex or the 105 or also West System six/10 will work well.
Six/10 comes in a tube for caulking gun. If the board is flexible at all, then the G flex will tolerate the bending best. If it's very flexible, you may want a new board!
Carefull masking, screeding and application of the plastic or mylar surface forming, bond break will minimize the sanding needed. The finished repair needs to be very smooth but be careful not to thin down the board thickness.
 
board fix correction

Sorry, I was too quick on the recommended thickening filler.
I think Micro fiber 403 or high density 404 would be the preferred filler for this fix.
(not low density 407).
 
centerboard fixes

Ross, thank you for the very detailed instructions, this is exactly what I was hoping for.

The centerboard is still very sturdy, even though split. So I am expecting it to be an easy repair... I just didn't know how to do the repair.

I usually sail off a boat ramp or dock, and don't take the beating of waves on the beach... lesson learned - must remember to cleat the centerboard in the up position to avoid future breaks.

-Robert
 
Ross has detailed the repair well , I would do a few things a little differently .

#1 - use an epoxy that doesnt blush , I don't use West systems ( nothing against it , I use what I am familiar with ) I use System 3's laminating resin and dont have to worry about amine blush and washing between coats .

2 - I would make the groove shallower , you dont need to go much deeper than the fiberglass skin , you want to tie into that surface more .

3 -. Do get straight (unfilled ) epoxy into that crack , I work from top to bottom forcing it through with a gloved finger .

3a. - let that cure without clamping . the board is at state of released tension , clamping together will only want to pull the foam apart internally. if the board is twisted or otherwise un-aligned , clamp from the sides .

4 - Your split is small enough that Marine tex would work as a filler. I personally like milled glass fibers and micro (glass microspheres) mixed with epoxy .

Wax paper and plastic wrap are inexpensive release films, lay some on your work bench and your CB wont stick to it . Keeps clamps from sticking too.

Epoxy is messy stuff and you want to plan ahead , wear gloves when applying and a respirator when sanding .

Go get 'em !

Rob
 
repaired centerboard

I finished up my centerboard repairs last week. A friend has some marine epoxy and it only took a small amount to do the repairs.

I sanded down the problem areas, then I drilled holes across the split. I taped across one side of the split to keep the epoxy from dripping through, then spread out the epoxy and filled the split and new holes. I added some silica to the epoxy and built up the leading edge that was worn away. I used a wood rasp to knock down the thick stuck, lots of sanding, and another coat of epoxy. More rasp and sanding, and finally a coat of paint. It performed very well last Sunday.

Today, I'm heading back out for more sailing. There are storms approaching tonight and plenty of wind forecast today on the lake.

-Robert
 

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