Rigging the outhaul for the new Boom Sleeve/Clew Hook

SFBayLaser

Member
John Christianson, inventor of the now legal boom sleeve/clew hook, has sent to me his version of how he thinks the outhaul should be rigged. During the voting period we had a rather lively discussion about how the outhaul was rigged in the photos of the boom sleeve and yesterday, with no wind here this time of the year, turned out to be a good time to get some pictures of his system so people could comment.

Two things I could mention: first is that he did not include any mention of a shock cord inhaul. I never use one either (even with a strap or spectra tie down line) so can't make any comments on that. Second is that the routing of the line from the fairlead, through the block on the sail, back to the fairlead and then forward is exactly as he defines in his very detailed instructions. I have the impression that this routing is important to insure optimal operation of the fitting. I guess one can also note his attention to detail in making this outhaul, perhaps that is the mark of an engineer at work?

As it goes with these things, I'm sure lots of people will have ideas on how to rig the outhaul but I thought it would be useful for everyone to see what the designer of the fitting thought.

ILCA is currently updating the Class Rules (with very slight wording changes mandated by ISAF) and the fitting will be legal as of December 1. The last I have heard (last month) the fitting is supposed to be available to dealers by the end of this month.
 

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So it's important to have the outhaul blocks on top of the boom? My run along the side right now. What does the set up look like at the mast?
 
Is that 2 or 3 pieces of line? I can't quite tell from the photos.

Also, do you have suggested lengths of the line used? This setup looks pretty slick. I can't wait to get mine.
 
Not certain if teh following is true because I cannot see enough detail in the photos...

John also sent nme detailed instructions wheh I had his test sleeve a few eyars back. Please note: I accidentally used the hook backwards.

Otherwise, I THINK the photos here show the same pulley systrem as Tracy's photos. if not...somebody correct me.
Yes..it is time for new photos on the fredrig site...Has been out of date for years
http://www.schrothfiberglass.com/RiggingforLaser.htm
Fred
 
Hi,

I used the sleeve all Summer. Tracy and Fred's rigs are fine for starters, someone will tweak them, I'm sure.

But, I don't think you can tie off the dead end around the boom, as Fred did in his old pics. I've found you need the full travel, all the way to the outhaul fitting. That's with a decent red-dot North.

Also, I tried the sleeve without any bungee inhaul at all, and it worked great in any air, except in 0-1 apparent, I might have to ease vang, and rock/pump a tiny bit to get it to move. I have my handle knotted at max ease, so at the weather mark I'd just uncleat it and forget about it. I think the bungee inhaul may be worth it for light air-instant changes, but not imperative. If you're in SF Bay, or even Buzzards, I'd forget about it.

The hook on last Summer's prototypes is totally different than all the other hooks you've seen, longer, better angles, and more captive by the sleeve ears. So I'd forget about all the un-hooking nightmare stories you've heard. Start over and give this a try.

It actually takes a kinda strong thumb to release the sail's clew when needed, but it is easy, and then poof it's gone. Nice, safe, etc. if you have to land at a dock or beach downwind.

I think this is kinda like the new Vang. When we are all done futzing and putzing, and griping about the bucks, the new rigged boats will be even closer to "one-design" than ever before.

My thanks to JC, by the way.

JMHO

Al Russell 182797
 
Apologies if this is answered elsewhere, but how do you get the sleeve ON the boom in the first place? Does it come in two half-round parts, does it have a hinge at the bottom, or do you have to prise it apart the first time to get it on and then tighten it up? Isn't there a danger that when you close it for the first time, it doesn't close up exactly circular and starts to snag? Or are you supposed to take the boom end fairlead and the block fitting off, slide the sleeve on and replace them?

Looks very interesting - and am keen to try it.
 
chrisfsi said:
Apologies if this is answered elsewhere, but how do you get the sleeve ON the boom in the first place? Does it come in two half-round parts, does it have a hinge at the bottom, or do you have to prise it apart the first time to get it on and then tighten it up? Isn't there a danger that when you close it for the first time, it doesn't close up exactly circular and starts to snag? Or are you supposed to take the boom end fairlead and the block fitting off, slide the sleeve on and replace them?

Looks very interesting - and am keen to try it.

It slides on from the mast end without any prying and you turn it this way, then that, to get it around the fittings. No snagging. It's a beautiful thing!
 
Very cunning - thanks. Look forward to getting hold on one - hopefully someone will post when they're available. Will form part of my quest for speed - it may even help me move up from generally last, to well, more than likely, still generally last, but at least I will be comforted in my last-ness by knowing that no stone has been left unturned....:)
 
Wait so does your purchase system have to be the same as in the photos cause that looks like its going to take alot longer to rig.
 
i think you can rig it how ever the hell you want, and calm down, as long as its within the rules...
 
do you have to buy a whole new boom or can you buy the sleeve and it clips around the boom somehow? do you know when and if this is going to be able in Aussie.
cheers
 
ARE YOU KIDDING ME!!!!!??? you just buy the sleeve, and read the above posts, it tells you how to put it on.....
 
Merrily said:
So it's important to have the outhaul blocks on top of the boom? My run along the side right now. What does the set up look like at the mast?

I don't think it is important so much as that is where they end up with this scheme (which is only one of many you could think of). I didn't take a picture, but the line going forward goes to a block tied around the mast, then down to the deck and to the cleat. Very simple.

I tried to zoom in a bit more on a couple of pictures to help answer other points, questions, etc.
 

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sailor327 said:
how much longer does it take to rig or do some of the lines stay on the boom

No need to unrig the boom, all you need do is put the boom on, run the outhaul line through the mast block to the deck and cleat, hook the sail in and go sailing.
 
dubaisailer186065 said:
alrite i didnt read it, calm down it was jsut a question :S


im sorry, but the stupidity on this forum gets to me at times, half of the questions asked are common sense, and i mean seriously, its a laser, not brain surgery for crien out loud. think for yourselves people
 
chillax salsa, people come to this forum so they dont get flamed for the "stupid" questions that they may have cause they are new or dont quite understand. Im not saying TLF is like a sanctuary or anything its just a place where people can ask questions without criticism.
 
It looks to me that it doesn't get the sail close enough to the boom(ie not as much leech tension as a vecro clew strap or by just tying). Is this correct or is it just the photo? Think I will wait to see overall performance, results and a good real cloe up of one rigged before I rush out and buy one.
 
looks fine to me, the block might be in a different position, but it all seems ok
 
SFBayLaser said:
I don't think it is important so much as that is where they end up with this scheme (which is only one of many you could think of). I didn't take a picture, but the line going forward goes to a block tied around the mast, then down to the deck and to the cleat. Very simple.

I tried to zoom in a bit more on a couple of pictures to help answer other points, questions, etc.

Hi Merrily:

I just put an order for the new Boom Sleeve. Thanks for the pictures. I couldn't figure out how the line is looped through the cleat on the boom. It seems that the "block" is tied off and then led through the block coming from the clew line, fed through the cleat and then back through the "block" - ie it is the same line to comply with the rules? Do you have a close up picture of the cleat? How long a line do you need to make this work?

Thanks


Phil Minnion
 
Photos a bit of a dissapointment (not because they are bad photos - just because the clew is not as close to the boom as expected).

Recently switched from a non-legal (so it was suggested by one member of this forum) plastic tube (plastic cut from a chamois tube) version of the sleeve with Harken Hook to a Rooster strap without hook. While rigging was incredibly tedious compared to the hook, the end result was a clew right down on the boom and the same easy glide I got from the plastic sleeve. Actual difference was quite dramatic.

I understand the hook has been re-designed to hold the clew lower - but compared to what the rather tedious strap can produce it is still way higher off the boom. Can the hook be replaced with a simple 'push-pin' (the type of pin used to secure shrouds with a spring (safety) loaded turn toggle- or is the hole too low for this to pass thru the clew eye?

If everyone used this standard fitting it probably would not matter much - but it looks as though the strap will still permit the clew to be secured markedly closer to the boom alieviating the need for expensive low-profile tillers. (but if you have both you it looks as though you will have maybe a further inch or so before you get block to block.

May not be such an issue for radials - but has anyone checked this out?

The Harken hook is so much user friendly when rigging and unrigging - would be good to see it work without sacrificing clew distance from the boom.

What do you think??
 
Put this question on another thread also - but would like advice.

Does the clew of the sail rig outside the port sleve flange? (i.e. so the whole sleeve is a few degrees rotated to starboard when viewed from the outboard end of the boom). Photos don't show this clearly even at 400% zoom.

Also the instructions on mine said emphatically to rig the split-pin (opened 3mm) to starboard. (phptos show it rigged to port - same side as the open hook??) Only reason for questioning this is that the starboard rotation of the sleeve from vertical I get with the clew outside the port sleeve flange means that the split-pin thru the cotterpin is very close to snagging the outhaul line running forward on the starboard side.

Photos show the sleeve almost 'vertical' (i.e. the gap in the sleeve almost centres on the top centreline of the boom - in my setup this is probably 10 degrees off centre.

Advise appreciated
 
Being a new Laser sailor, what's the deal with the distance of the clew vs. the boom. Does the small difference really make much a difference in the shape of the sail?
 
I just wanted to add to this thread.

I've been using the new sleeve, rigged as shown in the diagram for a few outings now. I was having real trouble because the system always stuck when I released the outhaul; it seemed there was too much friction in the system. I thought I was going to need to put a bungie inhaul back on.

But last night, I sprayed the end of the boom and the outhaul line at the outhaul attachment point with "McLube" following the directions on the can. I was liberal with it and added a couple coats. HUGE DIFFERENCE! Every ease of the outhaul caused an immediate difference in sailtrim, and if I blew the outhaul completely, the sail quickly pulled it all the way out the stop knot, even at the shown 8-1 cascading advantage.

I conclude that if you use the new sleeve, YOU NEED A CAN of MCLUBE to go with it.
 
Just got one today - and my first impression is that the tube edges should ideally have had a slight flange on them. That way there should be no chance of it catching/scoring the boom and there should be no need to use lubricant - a potential future mod? Anyway, racing tomorrow in light air so here's hoping it works fine and I'm worrying over nothing.
 
Update: I'm one of the guys who's been using the clew sleeve successfully. But after a little more than a year of the use of the clew sleeve, I have to abandon it.

As noted above, my initial impression was that you just needed to lube it for it to work right.

But under about a year of normal "Laser" usage mine has now decided that it won't release under any load at all, even when properly lubed up. I inspected it carefully and I see that it has acquired a tiny bit of a twist/bend in one of its flanges, so small you'd never notice if you weren't looking for it. I assume this is the cause of the problem.

Rather than order a replacement, I'm now going to get a harken clew hook and rooster clew strap.
 

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