Repair Help!

Discussion in 'Sunfish Talk' started by Garrett12, Jul 11, 2013.

  1. Garrett12

    Garrett12 Member

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    I have been surfing the forums the past month in preparation for my upcoming repairs. Last summer my fish took on a little more water than it probably should have. So, this summer (now that i have the funds) I am going to repair the boat, re gel-coat, install a new bailer, and install the new rudder assembly (hopefully before my weeks vacation in August :confused: ).

    So I have turned to here to gather more information. There are a few cosmetic cracks that need to be repaired, a few holes to be filled, and some more significant repairs. I'm sure some one on here has done this process before; is there anywhere I might be able to get a shopping list of materials and a detailed step by step instructions? From washing the boat after i get it on the sawhorses to dropping in the water in the end. Or maybe one of you would be willing to share your knowledge and wisdom with an amateur that wants to learn (and not spend $$$$$$$$$$ on having professionals do the repair).

    I have attached photos of the repair areas. and i'm sure i will be back with more questions.

    Thank you in advance for your help! it is GREATLY appreciated.
    Garrett
     

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  2. minifish2

    minifish2 Active Member

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    Most of your issues can be addressed with white MarineTex. Especially if you are looking for cheap, effective repair that will last. You can get it at West Marine or any of the on-line vendors who advertise on this site.

    Carefully scrape any loose fractured gelcoat from the around he areas to be repairs. Mix up a batch with careful attention to the instructions. When the mixture starts to feel like it is getting warm (when the catalysts starts setting), fill the areas, sparingly. If you don't mix it so it sets properly, and you apply it like that, it may never dry and is a mess to correct.

    To get a smooth, easy to sand finish, you might cover the filled area with a small smooth scap of waxed paper, and leave the wax paper sitting on it there until the MarineTex hardens. Once hardened the waxed paper will peel off easily and he result should look smooth.

    If you must smooth some small spots with your fingerer, wet it first. Don't just fill the holes with dabs of the stuff thinking you will sand it smooth later, as the MarineTex is a bear to get smooth once it has hardened. An ounce of care initiallly is orth more than a pound of work later.

    That should get you 90 percent there.
     
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  3. signal charlie

    signal charlie Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    That Marine Tx will match the gelcoat pretty well also...
     
  4. Garrett12

    Garrett12 Member

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    How far will 2oz get me you think?
     
  5. signal charlie

    signal charlie Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    should do the repairs you showed!
    kb
     
  6. Garrett12

    Garrett12 Member

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    So you would recommend doing all of them with it over fiber glassing them?
     
  7. signal charlie

    signal charlie Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    yep, we've done a lot like that. you are just replacing top layer gelcoat, fiberglass underneath looks ok. Check inside the daggerboard well and mast step for chipped epoxy and cover those also.
     
  8. Garrett12

    Garrett12 Member

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    Any recommendation on applying it to the daggerboard well? I know there are a few spots in there that will need it. Do you think the bow, the circle in the middle of the boat, and the hole in the back (old drain plug) will need fiberglass? I'm not expert but the fiberglass does look a bit damaged in those spots. Can you fill holes with the marine tex? or what is the best method of going about that.

    Thanks for your help!
     
  9. signal charlie

    signal charlie Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    you are welcome
     
  10. Garrett12

    Garrett12 Member

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    If I remove the aluminum trim the boat wont separate correct?

    Any best place to buy Marine Tex?
     
  11. danpal

    danpal Active Member

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    The trim only protects the edge. It doesn't hold the boat together. The deck and the hull are epoxied together and the trim added afterwards to protect the edge of the boat.
     
  12. signal charlie

    signal charlie Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Marine Tex: check local marine store or order on Amazon.com
     
  13. Garrett12

    Garrett12 Member

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    What kind of wood is this? I am refinishing my daggerboard and need to know what kind of finish is generally used.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. signal charlie

    signal charlie Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Pics didn't show but actors boards are mahogany
     
  15. signal charlie

    signal charlie Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    ...factory boards usually mahogany...
     
  16. Kevin Mc

    Kevin Mc Member

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    Patch any gouges, etc. (Bondo works well - not pretty, but effective). Sand smooth all over and finish with 3+ coats of spar varnish.
     
  17. Garrett12

    Garrett12 Member

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    So the daggerboard is almost refinished, just needs 1 more coat!

    So the next question is, what is the best method to repair a daggerboard trunk? It looks like someone had done a sloppy repair job on it in the past. My plan is to sand all that out, but what is the best thing to fill the cracks with and the method of doing so?

    Garrett
     
  18. signal charlie

    signal charlie Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Marine tex. use a paint stir stick or Popsicle stick to reach. Then file down
     
  19. Garrett12

    Garrett12 Member

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    Much appreciated! I plan to get most of the work done this week!
     
  20. Garrett12

    Garrett12 Member

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    I am preparing all the spots for repair. I was working on the daggerboard trunk and saw this "U" shaped thing that runs the length of the trunk on 1 side. Is this suppose to be there or is it a "fix"
     

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