Question: eyestrap for BLOCK okay? and Lateen Pointitude

Discussion in 'Sailing Talk' started by Petrel, Aug 27, 2009.

  1. Petrel

    Petrel Member

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    Hi folks,

    Yes, it was The Boathouse, that I went to in Falmouth, MAINE. Nice place and a very helpful fellow working there. Now I need the name of a place closer to North Central MASS. Also, any place that does Small sailboat (16 ft.) rigging and replairs/replacement/tweaking. I'm in MOTORBOAT HELL here <g>

    I got the Harken block (with the switch, not the automatic; but the light weight carbo block, not the stainless steel strapped one).
    I got a StandupGUY-SPRING and an EYESTRAP. On the back of the block blister pack it says to use the "cap" or whatever (mounting cap??) blah blah, but I didn't see any such t hing. I notice that some of the mounted blocks look as though they are mounted on on a clean looking dark-colored escutcheon. I hope a simple SS eyestrap with 1/2" plus washers and lock nuts is fine for mounting my new ratchet block on the lip of the tub. Initially I thought I'd get the auto-ratchet block but the fellow at the shop said he actually preferred to feel the free (whatever) with the switched block. They didn't carry the hexoratchet, it being a bit ?dated and heavier.

    So, drill ready, I guess I'll mount the thing tomorrow or over the weekend. I've no idea if I want t he axis of the eyestrap to go north to south or east to west. Along the axis of the lip or perpendicular to it? Does it matter is the block with shackle rotates. And, I am sure this is a very stupido questione, but, despite the cute arrows on the cheek, I've no idea which way to flip it or rope it. I'm not experienced in this. I guess, if wrong, I just undod the shackle pin and flip it around. ;)

    I repaired ?? the aluminum trim (I'm telling you, rain rain rain, hot-muggies and moving and going out of town to fix a place to sell will really eat into sailboat time). I used some West System epoxy. At first I used a filler. Mistake. Someone of your warned me but the thread was old. It tore out. Then I read my WS pamphlets and used just the straight epoxy with maybe some chopped up glass threads. After the first rivet attempt (DH's) my DH removed the soft epoxy with filler but took a bit more of the edge off. I built it up again, but silly me, forgot to put something over the pretty blue gelcoat at the aft end of the deck. It got epoxy gobbed onto it. NOT PRETTY. Any way to get this off without scraping the gelcoat?

    Next question: In "sailing" my "COOLER" (snark foam boat) I have to wonder. Why is it that lateen rigged boats seem to only want to sail on a reach? Sometimes in light winds I have to pinch like mad or get out the two piece plastic paddle. BTW, anyone tried the two-piece or telescoping paddle at sunfishsailboats? worth it? Looks like a nice thing.

    Sail on!
  2. Wayne

    Wayne Member Emeritus

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    My last stand-up spring purchase had the same note on the package. The store clerk had no idea what it was in reference to. I dug around on the Harken web site and found the cap to be a washer of sorts with about a 1/16" lip that goes on the top and bottom of the spring to prevent scratching the deck. I couldn't find these at a dealer anywhere so I emailed Harken customer service asking where they were available. They sent me 2 gratis.

    APS has them for $0.88 - p/n HSB2

    Swivel base, perhaps?

    Eyestrap to deck works just fine unless you're going to include a cam cleat.

    On a port/starboard line.

    I don't think your screws will be accessible from below the cockpit lip if you orient the mounting fore & aft. You'll at least suffer the same problem as trying to fit into your sister's jeans...

    The block pivots 360 so NP if you get it backwards at first. Here's how to do it by ear..., flip the switch so the sheave (pulley) ratchet clicks in one direction and is locked in the other. Feed the mainsheet through so the sheave spins and clicks as you pull the mainsheet to you.

    If the deck was waxed you may find the spill-over will peel up with help from a putty knife. If everything was acetone cleaned and sanded, nope, nothing short of sandpaper.

    Lateen rigs perform best on points of sail below a beam reach, however, they should also sail upwind all the way to the "no sail" zone, like any other boat.

    How well your boat will sail up wind depends on many factors..., sail condition, sail rigging, boat balance, but most of all, your knowledge of how to put the rest of the stuff to work for you.

    Here's a quick reference...

    A copy of, The Sunfish Bible by Will White is indispensable for any one who's a self starter in sailing.

    Check out your area for courses in small boat sailing if you're less inclined to slog up the steep side of the learning curve.

    ...these will all help you handle both your boats well.

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