Outhaul/Downhaul console screw-holes stripped

0dylan

0dylan

...
Hi.

The center 2 cleat area that cleats off the outhaul and downhaul is secured by two holes fore and aft. I took off the cleat console (is there another name?) the other day to see why, whenever I tightened the screws, the console would still wiggle. I unscrewed the screws and I cleaned out some saw-dust like debris from the holes, and they were as smooth as a water slide.

So, I know that the main pressure on the cleats is forward, and not up, because of the forkhead blocks by the mast. I rarely ever stand up and pull at 90 degrees to get on downhaul. However, it concerns me that the cleat console is just literally sitting there. My question is how might I go about fixing this problem? I have two ideas so far....
1. Fill up the holes... somehow... with epoxy resin and hope it doesn't drip right through and solidify in my hull. One way I suppose I could do this is to fill it chock full of filler, but that would weaken it....
2. Leave the holes, and drill new holes further back to support the cleat console. My major concern on this one would be the structural damage to the hull, having two holes next to each other. This could rip a big chunk of deck out of the hull in big wind, right?

It'd be great if you could provide advice on another more viable solution, or improve on #1. #2 is not a good solution, but I can't see how I can make #1 work cleanly. Also, if you know nothing of this topic, just advise which one sounds better to you.

Thanks,
Dylan
 
Mine is through-bolted, but of course you'll need an inspection port for that.

If your current screws are #8 guage or #10 gauge, can you switch to 12 or 14 gauge? Might have to grind the heads to fit in the console countersinks, but is easy fix and could work.

the other option is to find a stainless steel ramset/hilti hollow wall plug, one suitable for the thickness of deck in that area and one that opens up like an umbrella under the deck. They seem to make one for every purpose and material. Could be worth looking into.
 
0dylan said:
1. Fill up the holes... somehow... with epoxy resin and hope it doesn't drip right through and solidify in my hull. One way I suppose I could do this is to fill it chock full of filler, but that would weaken it...
Click to expand...
The right filler will actually strengthen the epoxy. I'm a fan of WEST System, so I'd use a mixture of High Density 404 (for strength) and a bit of Colloidal Silica 406 (to increase the mixture viscosity).

A non-epoxy alternative is to simply glue a dowel into the hole.

If you decide to go the epoxy route, I'd mix one-pump of epoxy and set aside about half of it. Then add High-Density filler to double or triple the volume (it's amazing how much 404 you can mix in without adding too much viscosity). Then I'd add just enough Colloidal Silica to stiffen the mixture so it won't drip (probably just a half-teaspoon or so for a single pump of epoxy - a little goes a long way).

I'd start by working some of the un-thickened epoxy into the hole to try and saturate the wood fibers. Obviously you'll want to be careful not let too much drip down into the hull, but a disposable brush should let you get enough down there. Next I'd force some of the thickened mixture into the hole. When you think there's enough to fill the volume, add a bit of a mound on top (so there's extra in case gravity does cause some drippage).

When the epoxy hardens, redrill the hole and you're "good to go".

If you happen to have an inspection port nearby, then you can avoid all the concern with dripping by sticking a piece of tape over the bottom of the holes (in that case I'd skip adding the colloidal silica to the thickening mix, and start by filling the hole up completely with un-thickened epoxy, wait for awhile to let it soak into the wood, and suck the excess back out with a syringe - then fill with the thickened mix).

Cheers,

Geoff S.
 
Thanks for the responses! What we thought was to put the epoxy in with a syringe like the past poster said and then quickly flip the boat over, and tape the holes. This way, it won't drip. My dad has really thought it through. Thanks for your help so far.
Any extra solutions would help as well.
 
I agree these particular screws can easily be stripped. Mine failed on my '05 last year, so I patched those, and my new '08 as well before they stripped.

I use a dremel to widen the holes quite a bit. Then I have a port nearby, so I tape under the holes, and fill with WEST, and redrill after it hardens. Geoffs' advice above is very good. This is kind of standard on a wood cored boat such as my J24, so I consider this normal maintenence.

Al Russell
 
What is wrong with a little epoxy dripping down onto the inside of the hull ? You won't see it and it's weight will be negligible
 
martyn said:
What is wrong with a little epoxy dripping down onto the inside of the hull ? You won't see it and it's weight will be negligible
Click to expand...

Nothing, except that if all the epoxy drips out of the hole before it sets, it negates your goal of filling that hole.
 
I'm having the same problem, but the epoxy jobs aren't holding. Would the plates ever get too old/moist? I dried it the last time for three days in the sun. Somehow still pulling it out.

What's the solution for the through bolting proccess? where are you putting the inspection port?
 
I'm having the same problem, but the epoxy jobs aren't holding. Would the plates ever get too old/moist? I dried it the last time for three days in the sun. Somehow still pulling it out.
Click to expand...
If the plywood is wet, it is not going to hold. While I am a big fan of West System, I prefer a mechanical joint for things like blocks and the Cunningham/outhaul cleats. Below find a link to the product I used. Model "BAS" is for marine applications as it has a stainless steel toggle. You will most likely have to order the stainless ones, but they are well worth the wait.

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php
 
what I did on both my boats is to put a small piece of plywood on the inside of the boat through the inspection port, put silicon in and around the holes to keep the deck from leaking, if you go to home depot you can get a small scrap piece of plywood free since they just throw them out
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top