My Laser hull restoration review

Discussion in 'Laser Talk' started by tsameti, May 15, 2014.

  1. tsameti

    tsameti New Member

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    Yeah I did roll and tip 2 pack and I had enough time to paint the boat in one go. I was expecting to use 500ml on the first coat and have 800ml left for the last coat but only used about 350ml so Im guessing I will have 2 more coats and sand it lightly between coats. I hope it turns out well.

    Has anyone had waterline done on Laser? Whats the easiest way to paint it?
     
  2. Voodoo 158546

    Voodoo 158546 Hard hiking at the end of a 3hr race, killer

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    I recently re painted voodoo, used toplac and roller but first coat was 20 % toplac / 80 % thinners - used syringes for accuracy 120ml per mix which did the whole hull...left to set then wet sanded.
    Once with 800 in one direction then 1000 at right angle then finally with 2000 bow to stern.
    Next coat was 50/50 and again left then wet sanded as above. 120ml. Rolled and tipped.
    Final coat was 80% paint 20% thinners.
    Wet sanded as above but this time went further still and went over with 2500 g paper, wiped clean and buffed with a machine with wool bonnet with plain old t cut....like black glass !

    What I'm getting at here is the process was laborious but thorough and I reckon there's only about 200ml of actual paint on the hull.

    Meant to add earlier but it's too late for you now - better for you to use a squeegee or old bank card to apply gelcoat rather than brush - no lines, no mountains to sand back.
    Using power tools is great n all but it's so easy to strike through, wet sanding by hand is the way to go ( neighbours won't hate you ) and you really do get to know every inch of your boat.

    Well done though, nice effort, no more beach rash
     
  3. Jakeee

    Jakeee Member

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    That looks great, I didn't paint mine, the presvious owner did, but I've a few touch usp to do and won't be using undercoat
     
  4. Jakeee

    Jakeee Member

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    're gunnels- you need something that dries solid and bonds to the existing material, I'd use some sort of epoxy/fibreglass filler, hold the two sides together with a clamp with cardboard against the boat to protect it and distribute the force a bit
     
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  5. tsameti

    tsameti New Member

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    Yesterday I've applied second coat of the 2 pack polyurethane but beforehand I called manufacturer as paint was dry to touch but not dry enough to sand it. He said its fine to apply another coat unless its been 48 hour gap. Now I will need to wait till tomorrow to be able to sand it and only than apply third coat. On my question if I should sand it before I polish it, his reply was: You shouldnt sand it, just polish it.
    To me it seems a bit weird but, he should know better than me. I cleaned my garage today to make sure theres minimum dust flying in the air tomorrow.
    [​IMG]
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    I will probably hold on for some time before I fix gunnels, as I desperately want to sail. Plus my car gets really jealous for not being parked inside the garage.


    Thanks for the support and good advices.
     
  6. Martz

    Martz Member

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    You might wanna cover the rear cross member on your dolly so that your nice new paint job doesn't get scratched up first time out... Take a trip to Clark Rubber...
     
  7. Martz

    Martz Member

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    Also wanted to recommend http://laserdirect.com.au/store/

    these guys are in SA, (Im in Sydney) but I buy all my genuine Laser stuff through them. PSA, (who would have built your boat) are in NSW, but their online shop is crappy - cant do freight at time of checkout. Defeats the purpose I think...

    anyways, Andrew at Laser Direct is very helpful....
     
  8. tsameti

    tsameti New Member

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    Which part exactly are you talking about and do you know what should I ask for at Clark Rubber?

    Gunnels used to be resting on the dolly but after they split I decided to modify my dolly and installed Ratchet strap so now laser is laying on the strap. I also installed trolley wheels at the rear section in case the boat accidentally touches the dolly while pulling it up from the water. Timber plank on the dolly helps support the middle part of laser.
     
  9. Martz

    Martz Member

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    I was referring to the rear cross member, and was just suggesting some black tube rubber. Cut it down the centre and slip it on. Looking at the pic again, now I see the trolley wheels you mention - Are they attached to the trailer or the dolley?
     
  10. Voodoo 158546

    Voodoo 158546 Hard hiking at the end of a 3hr race, killer

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    The 2 pack will form its own gloss yeah, but if you are left with orange peel ( dimples, hills and valleys ) and it's not quite cutting the mustard for ya, the only way is patient wet sanding....
    Has it come out beautifully flat ?
     
  11. tsameti

    tsameti New Member

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    I went to Reece today but they had nothing, will go tomorrow to Clark's rubber. Wheels are attached to the dolley and a carpet piece to protect from bare aluminium touching the hull.

    It's not top notch surface yet but hoping that sanding and third layer of PU will make it glass like. I will take close ups when done and you can tell me what do you think, as distance shoots hide all the imperfections.
     
  12. Voodoo 158546

    Voodoo 158546 Hard hiking at the end of a 3hr race, killer

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    Cool beans....
    don't mean to sound obvious but when mixing the blend, are you mixing slow and steady and allowing time for air bubbles to rise before rollering ?
    It's a right bastard when you've done a decent job bar the odd crater from bubble pop.
     
  13. tsameti

    tsameti New Member

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    So that's why it was written in the instruction to let it settle for 10 minutes so bubbles can arise to the top, thankfully I followed what was written.

    Voodoo do you fix boats for a job? Your knowledge about all this stuff is impressive.

    I regret I didn't call up flowcoat supplier before painting it could have saved me a week of my trouble and money and it would be much better surface protection but I guess you learn mainly from your mistakes.
     
  14. Voodoo 158546

    Voodoo 158546 Hard hiking at the end of a 3hr race, killer

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    Try and be philosophical about it all =).
    Well you now have double protection - the gelcoat and the poly paint.
    You also have broadened your experience - can't baulk at that !
    The time you spent on your hull you will be rewarded for - karma an all that.

    If you have access to a buffer ( rather than a machine polisher - very aggressive ) I'd still recommend going over your final coat with either talc or t cut or meguires or G3 on the bonnet. But if you were to, I'd leave it for several days to really let that final coat harden and breathe, go sail her, do it next week kind of thing.

    Once again good on yer for the rejuve....
     
  15. tsameti

    tsameti New Member

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    After almost 2 weeks of trouble and spending most of my free time in the garage, its finanaly done.
    Third layer of the paint was applied last night after I got home from work. I had my garage heating on plus one more electric heater and a power lamp to make sure RH is below 75% and temperature more than 20C.
    I was a bit worried that PU paint might set off quickly so I had to devided in two batches.
    Its not perfect but for the time being it should be enough, I will give paint a month to dry and give it a good polish afterwards.
    To cut it short, heres the result.
    [​IMG]
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    Btw Voodoo, I was looking at the polishing things you recomended and accidentaly found these ones in suggestions
    After almost 2 weeks of trouble and spending most of my free time in the garage, its finanaly done.
    Third layer of the paint was applied last night after I got home from work. I had my garage heating on plus one more electric heater and a power lamp to make sure RH is below 75% and temperature more than 20C.
    I was a bit worried that PU paint might set off quickly so I had to devided in two batches.
    Its not perfect but for the time being it should be enough, I will give paint a month to dry and give it a good polish afterwards.
    To cut it short, heres the result.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Btw Voodoo, I was looking at the polishing things you recomended and accidentaly found this one in suggestions on Ebay

    Farecla Marine

    Do you think car polish would be better?
     
  16. Voodoo 158546

    Voodoo 158546 Hard hiking at the end of a 3hr race, killer

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    What a job !
    It's a million miles away from that beach rashed bit of plastic it was last week..
    You happy with the finish ?
    Don't wanna piss on your bonfire but in the last pic, the reflection of the trailer shows orange peel.
    You could leave it at that, sail her and be happy.
    You could also do the final stages that will last for another bunch of years.

    In the world of perfecto, if you wanted to keep going it'll take five more wet sanding sessions, then the buffing process to bring back the mirror gloss.
    It's just a matter of flattening the paint with the successive grits, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500.
    It's daunting when you have a half decent job and are just about to take a bit of sandpaper to it, understandable - but keep in mind the mirror finish after the buff with talc or cutting paste later

    The link to the farecla - well, the rubbing compound is the same (same company, google farecla g3) and is a great compound which will, even by hand and cloth 'remove' very light scratches ( 2000 g and above, 1500 and below are a bit deeper and the loss of surrounding paint/ gelcoat will stress you out in trying to bring the surround down to level ).

    To wax or not to wax ? Bit a personal thing.
    I don't no need to, your hull is slippery enough.
    I've seen guys polishing their hulls with resin polish but all it's doing is filling in the micro gaps in the surface and gets washed out straight away anyway.

    Me ? I'd stick with the final cutting compound then wool bonnet buff to gloss.
     
  17. tsameti

    tsameti New Member

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    Yeah, it does have some orange peel here and there and most likely I will continue working on the hull once Sikaflex will start degrading in gunwale or if I get some water inside the boat.
    For now, I will be happily sailing once they approve my membership and allocate space for the boat.
    I will go with your derection to sand it with 5 different grits and than buff it.

    I want to share my improvements on the trailer.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I have changed padding as old padding was flat and destroyed after a long journey.
    I have installed 2 extra supports on the dolley itself, 4 wheels to help bring the boat when you are tired and no ones around and finaly strap at the back which is the main support for the boat. All of it has been tested and were succesful.
    The last mods on the trailer are bolts to hold dolley on the trolley, this way I limited movement of the dolley while driving on bumpy road I also installed support for the boat which will be secured with pins. I realised that stern is sort of hanging in the air and a lot of pressure was going on gunnels.

    Saturday should be the day when I test all of it and get back with the results.
     

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