Motor on port or starboard side?

fallspiper

New Member
Hi folks,

I've been following some threads regarding the mounting of an outboard and I'm preparing to do so. I notice that several people have mounted motors on the port side of the transom rather than the starboard side. Is there any rationale for this?:confused:
 
On my mod 1, I can see a thickening of the transom on the port side. I assumed that it is the sign of reinforcement plywood.
Make sure that you motor does not interfere with the main sheet or traveler. The have a tendency to get tangle with the motor control arm as soon as you look the other way. I have an electric motor and had to pull it back in by pulling the wires on a couple occasions.

J-F
 
I don't see the thickening on the port side, but rather just chose a side, and put blocks on... I got some contact adhesive on the hull, and haven't gotten around to removing it yet ;)

I ran jumper cable guage wires down under the port seat (it was easier than starboard for some reason, decay of foam?) on my Mod 1. This put my motor on the port side.. A true motor mount would have been better, as it would have stepped the motor 4-6 inches off the stern, keeping it free of lines, but it works, and I'll manage. The deep cycle battery is secured in the cubby, by 5/8" line through the handle, criss crossed across the battery... I need to put a battery box in I know. Finally I put a 80 amp stereo power booster FUSE and block inline on the positive lead, near the battery (mounted it on the plywood next to the battery, so it'd be easy to change).

I bought a minn kota trolling motor plug, male and female, from Bass Pro (about $24), and hacked the end of the trolling motor.

Attached are pictures of what I did for the mount/plug, and it cost very little (battery - $98, trolling motor $119, plug $24), labor ehhem... priceless.

I have since stained the oak plywood blocks...
 

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Mounting a battery for electric motor

Can you upload a picture of how you secured your battery?

I am interested in investigating getting an electric motor, but I was not sure the best way to secure the battery. I recently bought a type III boat that has the wide hatch opening. I was thinking of mounting 4 Bulls Eye Fairleads with 5200 and using this to tie the battery down in the front cubby.

However, I was concerned if the boat capsized, would the fairleads give out causing the battery to bounce around and thus, causing lots of damage. Or could the force of the batter actually cause the bulls eye fairleads to pull a hole in the bottom if the boat went turtle from the weight of the battery.

My concerns may sound a bit silly, but I am wondering if some of you that have lots of experience sailing this boat could provide your opinion on this setup to mount the battery.
 
Best picture I have is this one... It is crude, but we had the boat on it's side last weekend (literally, rail under water), and it did not move. I have a MOD 1 though (1986), and there, as part of the fiberglass/centerboard built-in, is 3/8 plywood, in the center, and as the bulkheads.

That is 1/2" line, strung through the handle... I dunno if it'll hold upside down yet... But the boat is paid for! too funny (until it happens). I plan on mounting a true "battery-box" and hopefully screw the hold-down straps to A) the bulkhead and B) the centerboard plywood. I have an 80 amp car stereo fuse run through the positive lead... you can barely see (out of focus) in the corner of this picture (gray).

The thinking is, the centerboard likely puts as much force on that board, as this battery could (at least during righting)... Maybe I am wrong.

Understand, I never really want to capsize this thing. But will prepare for it just the same.
 

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