Discussion in 'Laser Talk' started by TwoCent, Jul 12, 2017.
Plan on end for ending my mast tonight. Does anybody know the rivet size?
3/16" x not less than 1/2", stainless steel.
stainless steel is great - just make sure to use lanacote or some other kind of corrosion prevention if you plan on sailing in salt water!
Oh good, was about to use 3/16"-1/4" Glad my end cap broke and I didn't continue.
I tend to use aluminum. Any coating I need for that? (Don't think so, the mast itself is aluminum)
Do not use aluminium rivets!!!!!.
Oh wow, why? I mean, I believe you and all but you didn't give me a reason
At first gybe with a little wind the gooseneck will be out.
Aluminum is what is used on any plastic fittings- like the end caps on the top section and boom. However they are much weaker than stainless, so for any load bearing rivet like the gooseneck or vang tang or the blocks on the boom, the collar on the top section etc it's crucial to use stainless. The coating is only needed for stainless, since it's a different metal than aluminum corrosion happens. Aluminum on aluminum (and plastic) is not an issue.
We have a full article about this here: Preventing Corrosion Around the Goose Neck and Vang Tang - International Sailing Academy
What do you plan to use for a rivet gun? Stainless steel pop rivets require a lot of force. Even if you manage to pop the rivet, it may not be tight enough. You almost need some sort of commercial rivet tool instead of the typical hand rivet gun from your local hardware store.
This for sure.
A rivet tool this style works really well: https://www.amazon.com/Scissor-Action-Accordian-Industrial-Riveter/dp/B00O2KJPGO
Yes, I have a rivet gun for stainless from our old farm. Still works great
Was ordering some parts today and the recommended is 3/16" x 1/4". I understand extra spread for grip, but is it overkill? I only ask because I can get 3/16 x 1/4 stainless easy where as x 1/2 is a pain. I won't be going out in 20+ knots due to the age of the boat
You should have to consider that the rivet has to tight the gooseneck thickness and the aluminium wall. There is no way to form the head properly in the back part.
I forgot to tell you we are practice spars manufacturer.
Just a question. Are you end for ending the top section or bottom section? Bent masts are usually the top section. All the comments you are receiving relate to bottom section (gooseneck etc) if you are inverting because to prevent bend as appose to corrosion around vang tang & gooseneck the rivet length needs to be long enough to go through the plastic and metal with enough spare to expand outside the two components.
End for ending the top section. Was jumping on here to start correcting everyone talking about the gooseneck but you beat me to it. I had thought I mentioned the collar on here, but now i see that was on a different site.
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