limits on class legal?

Discussion in 'Laser Talk' started by Cavi, Jun 7, 2014.

  1. CaptainAhab

    CaptainAhab Active Member

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    Your boat is 1981. It is old and tired. It has poor blades. It has a poor sail. You should not be worrying about buying class legal equipment.

    The reality is unless you are doing a serious race(regional, state, national, international) no one cares. At the end of the day there is no advantage to be gained buy using any of the generic parts. They simply cost less. The only thing other than adding an outboard motor to a Laser that would make it faster would be the sail. However, it is generally accepted that the generic sails offer no performance gains(they just last longer due to better sail cloth).

    So you have 3 good options

    1.keep the boat you have and update with $400 worth of Intensity gear. The new sail, outhaul & down haul gear, maybe a new alloy tiller & ext. Spend a bit more for a new vang or modify the one you have with a couple of blocks and a $5 Dyneema loop(instead of a swivel at the mast).

    2.Its probably not cost effective to replace your blades(even generic ones are expensive). It would be more cost effective to sell your boat and find another newer used/tired one that someone else has done the above.

    3. Buy a really good used boat with all the legal gear and use it at the Worlds if you dare.
     
  2. Cavi

    Cavi Member

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    Yes and very no. my hull while old is in decent shape other than the mast repair, very little wear on the bottom. Blades are in real good shape and I mean real good shape. Sail is deffinitly old and tierd, and I will replace it with initially a intensity sail and depending on where I end up using it a class legal one also.
    The advantage of going my way is it allows me to spend money slowly while still enjoying the boat. I wanted to have the "class legal"answers so that I had an idea what to look for when I decided to start joining races nearby. I did not have any idea what to expect. If the only place that a intensity sails plate is going to be a problem is in national them that is how I will go.
    Looking at the big picture, I am the weakest link on this boat, both from experience and from my weight. So this is a inexpensive way to get into it. If down the road I really get into it and start doing great, then who knows it might be worth 3500 for a good newer used boat. For now I will run mine and upgrade as I go. I am going to first modify m outhaul . and initially I am just doing it better than what is there. After that I will consider if I will be upgrading the the XD vang. I am not sure I really need it at this point. Maybe in a couple of months.
     
  3. alienp2

    alienp2 New Member

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    Couple of points. If you are considering a steady progression of upgrades then if / when you get to a newer hull you can take the XD kit with you, so it might as well be class legal. That was my justification anyway, even if I never get round to that final upgrade. Shop around and buy when you see it at a good price. No need to rush. I bought the cheaper Holt / Allen kit rather than the Harken, but it's a personal choice.

    Secondly, I'm not sure the new outhaul and Cunningham actually put that much more stress on the deck. They have far more turns in the system and so require far less effort at the end you're pulling to achieve the same tension in the sail. I've just upgraded and can now crank on the tension with gentle tweaks. OK, the old outhaul was cleated off at the boom, not the deck, so you've now got 2 control lines at the turning block on the deck. However, once you've pulled the clew out to the end of the boom, there's no point tugging any harder.

    The new kicker though certainly puts more bend in the mast and boom, so that is the one to watch. I was really struggling to get the boom down block to block with the old system. Now it's easy. In this case, the mechanical advantage of all those turns is multiplying the force you apply massively before exerting it on the boom.
     
  4. cskudder

    cskudder Active Member

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    I heartily recommend putting in the boom stiffener/doubler kit to reduce the odds of breaking the boom. Newer boats/booms come with the doubler from the factory. You can get it for older boats from APS, and possibly Intensity now. Much cheaper than a new boom, and might take and hour or 2 to put it in.
     
  5. Emilio Castelli

    Emilio Castelli Member

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    Also flip your top section and maybe your bottom if there is a lot of corrosion at the vang tang.
    E
     
  6. cskudder

    cskudder Active Member

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    +1 to both of these.
     
  7. Cavi

    Cavi Member

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    I will look in to the stiffiner, as for corosion, there does not look to be any, the boom and mast sections are in really great shape. Took the boat out Friday and had tons of fun. Heavier wind than I would have liked to get used to the boat, but it went well. Didn't even get wet. Almost twice, the sheets caught on the transom on jibes, and the wind was strong so I couldnt quite release them without flipping, I ended up doing a 360 both times and releasing them. Lots of fun!
     
  8. Emilio Castelli

    Emilio Castelli Member

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    Do yourself a favor and flip at least the top section.
    No matter how good it looks, if it has been used for close to 40 years, the metal is fatigued. It's an easy job and it will save you having to buy a new top section and having to repair your sail.
    I speak from personal experience...
    E
     
  9. CaptainAhab

    CaptainAhab Active Member

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    Just happened to a good friend a few weeks ago. Bought a 1983 hull. Hadn't been used in a few years. Snapped the upper in less than 20 knots of breeze. It had corrosion under the bushing.
     
  10. cskudder

    cskudder Active Member

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    Glad you're enjoying it. I'd also suggest flipping that upper mast.

    On the sheet catching on the corner in a jibe- I tied a couple knots in the traveller, like below, and it helps a lot. It's not a 100% fix but it's definitely an improvement. I'm pretty sure this is not class legal (I don't race tho). But it only takes a minute to put the knots in or take 'em out.
    traveller limiter+aft access port- mine.jpg
     
  11. Cavi

    Cavi Member

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    I will try it.
     
  12. CaptainAhab

    CaptainAhab Active Member

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    Not legal if racing. It will bring the boom more to centerline if sheeted all the way in. It makes the boat point very high, but it is slow. If you are headed down the layline to a mark and need to really pinch up, one can sheet in all the way, and then grab the boom and pull it up the traveler. It makes the boat point a few degrees higher allowing you to fetch the mark.
     
  13. andyatos

    andyatos Active Member

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    Once I came to understand the purpose of having the full width of the traveler rope for the block to ride on, which includes light winds, I would never change that with knots. Not that knots on the traveler don't work to keep the main sheet from catching on the transom. They do.

    It's just that when I figured out the right technique for manipulating the main sheet during a jibe, the sheet never gets caught on the transom anymore. So I now have the best of both worlds.

    Cavi, you probably saw this in the other thread... because you were part of that thread... but I'll provide a link here. Dennis' (Eyeper) technique really works. Here's the link:

    A Good Day on Tomales Bay

    - Andy
     
  14. Cavi

    Cavi Member

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    Yeah I watched the video today, and now that I have had the issue I can see what he is doing and I will give it a try on Friday!
     

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