Inspection Port woes

pdwire

New Member
I recently purchased a used sunfish and during the spring my son and his friend turned it over a few times. As soon as it turned over it really started taking on water in the hull so after sealing a few crackes I figured that the hull was probably pretty wet and decided to put in some inspection ports to dry it out some. Well my first cut did not go so well. I read the document in the KB and others out there but none prepared me for when I cut my nice round circle at the front of the boat (3 inches aft of the front handle) and the entire circle was foam block (see picture). Not sure how I am going to increase circulation when there is a big foam block in the way?? I wrongly assumed that the foam blocks where at the bottom of the boat in the figures not glued to the top of the hull.... This is the same placement as in the picture in the KB so figured someone would have some advice.. Am I just supposed to rip out all the foam? that seems like a bad idea. This also turned out to be a bad location as there is quite a bit of crown to the midline of the boat that made sealing the port quite difficult.
 

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Here's a link to a series of pictures showing the location of the foam blocks:

http://www.sunfishforum.com/content.php?pg=construction

But what to do with the one you cut?
I would close it up, leave it alone and cut another port at a proper location.

I prefer a location between the splashguard and the daggerboard well. And yes, there's some crown to the deck, but if you offset the port a bit to the right, it will work out OK.

 
Here's a link to a series of pictures showing the location of the foam blocks:

http://www.sunfishforum.com/content.php?pg=construction

But what to do with the one you cut?
I would close it up, leave it alone and cut another port at a proper location.

I prefer a location between the splashguard and the daggerboard well. And yes, there's some crown to the deck, but if you offset the port a bit to the right, it will work out OK.

Thanx Wavedancer.. that is what I did.. closed it up. Wondering why the pdf in the Knowledgebase has that as a location?? If someone has the opportunity to change that could help the next poor fool.
 
The foam blocks are for floatation and structural, supporting the deck and the bottom of the hull. What a shame hitting the foam. You have good advice from wavedancer and I would add that I prefer 2 access ports located inside the front of the cockpit as this is a low spot that water can be mopped up easily, also lets you inspect centerboard case, aids in the mounting of hiking strap, keeps the deck looking clean, and adds accessible storage while sailing. Its hard to fit a paddle into a deck mount port.

><> Minas man <><
 
The foam blocks are for floatation and structural, supporting the deck and the bottom of the hull. What a shame hitting the foam. You have good advice from wavedancer and I would add that I prefer 2 access ports located inside the front of the cockpit as this is a low spot that water can be mopped up easily, also lets you inspect centerboard case, aids in the mounting of hiking strap, keeps the deck looking clean, and adds accessible storage while sailing. Its hard to fit a paddle into a deck mount port.

><> Minas man <><

Just to make sure, are you talking about inside the tub (where your feet go?) I have a 60s era fish that I want to add a hiking strap to, but I have been putting it off because I do not want to add two inspection ports (front and back) on the deck.

I wouldn't mind adding them to the tub. Anything else I should no before I start cutting?

Thanks
Marc
 
I would only put one port in the back of the tub (footwell/cockpit) for mounting the back of the strap, and use an eyestrap on the lip of the deck in front of the cockpit for the front. It gets in the way like this if you are daysailing, but it is good for racing and only requires one port. BB
 
I would only put one port in the back of the tub (footwell/cockpit) for mounting the back of the strap, and use an eyestrap on the lip of the deck in front of the cockpit for the front. It gets in the way like this if you are daysailing, but it is good for racing and only requires one port. BB

The first Sunfish I sailed, was a rental that had a hiking strap that went from the back bottom, to the front top, I tried to use it, but I felt the angle of the hiking strap made it very hard to use and uncomfortable.

I am new to Sunfish, so what was I doing wrong?

Thanks!
 
With the older style cockpit with no storage I would go for 2 front ports and 1 in the back to attach eye strap. This will give you more storage and give you the option of the lower mount for the front hiking strap. Here is a picture of my set up with 5 inch ports. I always use plastic polyethylene cutting boards for backing of fittings and the reasons are on some of my earlier posts.

><> Minas man <><
 

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I also have an older Sunfish with no cockpit storage compartment. I put a 5" inspection port ahead of the daggerboard slot, just behind the coaming. I put a second 5" inspection port in the back wall of the cockpit.

it was tough, but I could reach from the inspection port up near the coaming all the way past the daggerboard trunk to the backside of the front wall of the cockpit to tighten the nuts to hold the strap for the hiking strap lower down on the cockpit wall (instead of on the cockpit lip).

cheers,
thad
 

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