Hull-deck separation repair

Discussion in 'Laser Talk' started by Carole, Jun 7, 2010.

  1. Carole

    Carole New Member

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    I just had a look at my laser and the deck and hull have separated almost all the way around the boat. Can anyone recommend to me how this can be fixed... or whether I should just be looking for a new boat.

    I have never done any laser repairs nor worked with fibreglass.

    Thanks.
     
  2. 49208

    49208 Tentmaker

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    How old is the boat, was it stored upside down such that water could sit in the rail area and freeze (as it's pretty uncommon, even for older boats to have the hull/deck joint fail around the majority of the boat)

    It's certainly repairable, and can be fixed the same way as if you were fixing just a small section of rail - it involves digging/gouging out as much of the old bonding material between the deck and hull, and then filling with new bonding material.

    What you use for bonding material is up to you. If this is an old boat, just used for recreational sailing, I would seriously consider using 3M 5200, it's fast, fairly easy to apply, and will hold the joint together. The only negative is that it is a little flexible, which in a boat used for racing might not be ideal..

    If this boat is going to be used for racing, then you will want to bond it back together with either epoxy or polyester resin, mixed with a thickner such that you end up with a peanut butter consistancy and then you'll have to "smoosh" it in the gap.

    If you search the old threads here, you'll find lots of advice - search "hull deck joint"
     
  3. Carole

    Carole New Member

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    Thanks. I'll give it a go.
     
  4. laserxd

    laserxd Member

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    One way to repair it with epoxy is to create a mote with painters tape and fill in the seam, then sand it down once it dries, if its really seperated you might need to lightly clamp it back together. The repair should last a while and fix any leaks on the seam.
     
  5. bjmoose

    bjmoose Member

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    Since it goes most of the way 'round the boat, you may be tempted to pry the hull and deck further apart, or even separate them completely, in order to get better access to the repair area. DON'T DO IT! This will break the adhesive at the mast step, cockpit, and cockpit drain bonding points.

    Work around the boat a little at a time, clean, prep, insert adhesive, and clamp.

    I second the recommendation to use 5200. I used it on about a 3-4' section of gunwale on my last boat, and it held great, strong, and non-flexible. People have no idea how strong that stuff is when used in quantity.
     
  6. dusterrrr

    dusterrrr New Member

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    I found a 1978 laser for free....a tree fell on it. Hull and Deck separated along with hull cracks and holes. I've been working on it this past winter. i'm almost done. When i get a chance i'll completely document the fix...In the mean time the following link has pictures of the repair. Probably not race legal but i never intend to race it. http://picasaweb.google.ca/leon.vandervalk/LaserProject
     

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  7. dusterrrr

    dusterrrr New Member

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    I found a 1978 laser....a tree fell on it. Hull and Deck separated along with hull cracks and holes. I've been working on it this past winter. i'm almost done. When i get a chance i'll completely document the fix...In the mean time the following link has pictures of the repair. Probably not race legal but i never intend to race it. http://picasaweb.google.ca/leon.vandervalk/LaserProject
     

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  8. dusterrrr

    dusterrrr New Member

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    I found a 1978 laser for free....a tree fell on it. Hull and Deck separated along with hull cracks and holes. I've been working on it this past winter. i'm almost done. When i get a chance i'll completely document the fix...I completely separated the deck and hull, repaired all the cracks and holes then reassembled with 5200. Probably not race legal but i never intend to race it.
     

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  9. scars_scrapes

    scars_scrapes New Member

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    if your going to spend the time to do it, do it right. NO 5200. I use a dremel tool with a grinding disc when I rebuild lasers with this problem. I grind out the old bond in the area and a ways past the separation. the disc grinds to a depth of about 3/4 of an inch, plenty. I then use West System with a filler, 406 normally for sandability. once it sets I will go back and sand it flat.
    Great repair, easy repair and it is strong and rigid. 5200 is too flexible for this application
     
  10. dusterrrr

    dusterrrr New Member

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    I would agree with you that epoxy would work better if the hull and deck are not completely separated as in my case. In fact if i had to do it again i would likely use west 105/106 with a filler. The 5200 is very messy to work with. I am not disappointed with the results of using the 5200. 5200 is very tenacious... I ran a thick bed of 5200 all the way around the hull then set the deck on top and clamped it. The cured bond is very stiff. Incidentally, I used west epoxy 105/106 with a filler for the hull and deck repairs. Experience teaches...

    cheers
     
  11. parrott

    parrott New Member

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    Along these lines, I've got just a little separation from where a Laser II has sat on a Kittyhawk trailer for 20 years. The previous owner, who noticed the split, filled it with Bondo which has, predictably, separated again.

    I want to chip/grind this old stuff out and re-bond the hull/deck with a West System product this weekend. The gentleman who has been advising me on the project suggested that I take a strip of fiberglass tape and wrap it around the seam at the gunwhale. I haven't seen this step mentioned in the previous postings. Is it necessary? Preferred? Crazy?

    Thanks,

    David
     
  12. paxfish

    paxfish Member

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    Not necessary.
     
  13. paxfish

    paxfish Member

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    You can use a cutoff wheel like this in your Dremel to carefully remove the old filler. Go about 3/4" to an inch deep to make a nice channel. Then wrap a small sheet of 100 grit sandpaper around your putty knife blade and rough it up a bit more. Clean with acetone or Isopropyl.

    [​IMG]

    Then mix up some epoxy mixed with filler, fill the seam, cure and go sailing. 1 hour job, tops. A little paint will help protect the epoxy from UV, but be sure to wash and dry it before painting.
     
  14. parrott

    parrott New Member

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    Clear direction and just what I wanted to hear... Brilliant! I'm hoping to get some paint on the hull after doing this also. As long as I'm asking questions, here's another one:

    I've got a HVLP setup for painting cars at my place. Would a sprayed two part urethane paint (of the car body variety - color & clear) hold up if I were to lightly sand and then prime the hull? Or should I use an epoxy primer and some Toplac (or something else) with the roll & tip method? I'd love to try rolling & tipping, but I'm afraid I'll screw it up.

    Thanks again!

    David
     
  15. 49208

    49208 Tentmaker

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    Yes, any of the quality auto paints will hold up just fine. As far as primer, I've always gone with the paint manufacture's recommended primer (usually epoxy based), mainly to ensure a smooth surface which IMHO is easier to achieve with minimal sanding as opposed to a lot of sanding on gelcoat
     
  16. Kelli

    Kelli New Member

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    My daughters boat is separating at the back corner, i bought the West System Six1o thickened apoxy adhesive will this work as good. Im not good with mixing stuff.
     
  17. 49208

    49208 Tentmaker

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    Yes, the Six10 will work fine.
     
  18. Evan

    Evan New Member

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    you seem to be doing a good job. I hope you've finished by now, and enjoyed sailing ! I have a question for you.
    how did you separate the daggerboard trunk and the mast inset ?
     
  19. dusterrrr

    dusterrrr New Member

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    Evan,

    good question...

    The mast step was already separated. The daggerboard trunk was separated by using an exacto knife and separating the trunk from the deck...as i recall this took alot of work. Once i was able to get a larger flat tool into the gap i was able to pry the two apart...I suspect there are better ways to do this.
    I finished this work last spring so have already had a 1.5 seasons on the rework. It is holding up great. I suspect the boat is no longer legal but it works great as a fun/practice boat.
     
  20. Evan

    Evan New Member

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    thanks. I'll try my best.
     

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