Hiking Strap

JSDouglas

New Member
Since I havent found a good thread on this anywhere here, let me see if I have the Hiking Strap installation basics correct for my Alcort - :(

Eyestrap in the front of the cockpit backed by a steel backing plate and stainless screws installed via an inspection port located on the deck or in the cockpit itself........

Do the screws require nuts or washers? :rolleyes:

Eyestrap installed with 2" bolts in the back of the cockpit utilizing the draining lip in the cubby. I'm assuming nuts and washers here, though I can't imagine there's enough room on the back of the lip.

So when I get all of that installed, I dont understand how the hiking strap will attach to the eyestraps. Can you help me out here? :confused:
 
Since I havent found a good thread on this anywhere here, let me see if I have the Hiking Strap installation basics correct for my Alcort - :(

Eyestrap in the front of the cockpit backed by a steel backing plate and stainless screws installed via an inspection port located on the deck or in the cockpit itself........

Do the screws require nuts or washers? :rolleyes:
Yes; bolts are OK as well

Eyestrap installed with 2" bolts in the back of the cockpit utilizing the draining lip in the cubby. I'm assuming nuts and washers here, though I can't imagine there's enough room on the back of the lip.
You have to get the appropriate size

So when I get all of that installed, I dont understand how the hiking strap will attach to the eyestraps. Can you help me out here? :confuse
Tie a line that passes through the strap and the eyestraps

Here is some more info from the Knowledge Base (Sunfish KB in the upper bar)
http://www.sunfishforum.com/content.php?pg=faq#How do I install hiking strap
 
And 1 last thing - about where should the hiking strap sit in the front of the cockpit? I understand its somewhat personal preference but a guideline would be helpful.

Tie it to the eyestraps? Thats it?
 
And 1 last thing - about where should the hiking strap sit in the front of the cockpit? I understand its somewhat personal preference but a guideline would be helpful.
About 2" off the floor (that's the factory 'setting'). And use an elastic around the block to keep the strap off the floor.


Tie it to the eyestraps? Thats it?
Yes; just make sure you tie it properly or you will see the boat sail away from you as you swim :eek:
 
Sunfishgrouo189.jpg
 
Re: installing Hiking Strap (pre storage compartment)

I have a 1970 sunfish. i don't have the storage compartment lip to screw into. Does anyone have any picture or diagrams of how to install a hiking strap?
 
yeah, i didn't realize i would have to put inspection ports on her.. i feel bad for cutting her up. maybe i'm just worried about how it will look.

but you gotta do what you got to do. i guess it will be good for her to have me be able to inspect her insides..:rolleyes:


has anyone invented a kit to put one on without putting in the ports? a kit that will hold the weight..

spanks
 
yeah, i didn't realize i would have to put inspection ports on her.. i feel bad for cutting her up. maybe i'm just worried about how it will look.

but you gotta do what you got to do. i guess it will be good for her to have me be able to inspect her insides..:rolleyes:


has anyone invented a kit to put one on without putting in the ports? a kit that will hold the weight..

spanks

ports in the cockpit don't look bad. I don't like them on deck.
 
Spanks,

An inspection port is a good thing and typically adds value to the boat. The problem with your vintage boat is that the fiberglass at the aft end of the cockpit tub is fairly thin and without a fairly large metal or wood back-up plate to spread the load, you can't get a strong enough attachment point to take the load of a hiking strap. A 5" or 6" port should be fine and they are fairly easy to install. At the end of the season, you can also open the port, cover with 1/4" wire mesh (to keep critters out of the interior) and dry the boat out before the start of the next season. To be honest, the Sunfish should come stock from the factory with two deck ports, and I always add them to any project boats I am working on.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
Spanks,

An inspection port is a good thing and typically adds value to the boat. The problem with your vintage boat is that the fiberglass at the aft end of the cockpit tub is fairly thin and without a fairly large metal or wood back-up plate to spread the load, you can't get a strong enough attachment point to take the load of a hiking strap. A 5" or 6" port should be fine and they are fairly easy to install. At the end of the season, you can also open the port, cover with 1/4" wire mesh (to keep critters out of the interior) and dry the boat out before the start of the next season. To be honest, the Sunfish should come stock from the factory with two deck ports, and I always add them to any project boats I am working on.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY

I used large 2" washers on the back and a 5 inch piece of 3/8' laminated fiberglass on the front for reinforcing. I think the washers will be strong enough for the front. The laminated fiberglass is overkill. Cutting it will ruin any blade. I used diamond blades for most cutting of that material.

One important point. The hiking strap should not be too tight. Too tight increased the forces on the ends. A little give in the hiking strap will reduce the end loads dramatically.

I always cringe when I see lifelines set too tight. Can't convince many non-engineers that this is actually weaker. Same principal applies to hiking straps.
 
why did you put two ports in the front?
could i just put one in the middle there, like you have in the back?

wait.. i just realized you couldn't fit it there, being that the strap goes there.. right? but then, why do you have two ports in the front?

I used a 4" inspection port on SCUD


Scud3611.jpg
 
why did you put two ports in the front?
could i just put one in the middle there, like you have in the back?

wait.. i just realized you couldn't fit it there, being that the strap goes there.. right? but then, why do you have two ports in the front?

I wanted good access to both sides of the daggerboard. You could get by with one I suppose.

I also had plans to put a couple of bags in there--but haven't gotten around to that yet.

If I had to do it again, I'd use two 5" viking ports and put a bottle port on one side and a bag on the other.
 
I used large 2" washers on the back and a 5 inch piece of 3/8' laminated fiberglass on the front for reinforcing. I think the washers will be strong enough for the front. The laminated fiberglass is overkill. Cutting it will ruin any blade. I used diamond blades for most cutting of that material.
DSCN4020.jpg



i used the diamond saw for most of the cutting and a dremmel to finish it out.. i didn't think of it until after all the dust, cough, but i should have used my vacuum to keep the dust from flying around while cutting.. goggles and mask highly recommended, as well as long sleeves and pants..


i've been itchy for days..
 
i decided to put two 4'' ports towards the front in order to be able strengthen the centerboard trunk with resin..

i'm glad i opened her up, she looks great inside and very dry..
 
i used the diamond saw for most of the cutting and a dremmel to finish it out.. i didn't think of it until after all the dust, cough, but i should have used my vacuum to keep the dust from flying around while cutting.. goggles and mask highly recommended, as well as long sleeves and pants..


i've been itchy for days..

I really like the blue cockpit. Not sure if I like the black ports, but I guess it works with blue.

I just checked out the last Sunfish I bought. It's been sitting in my Mom's yard for seven years. I am glad I shrunk wrapped it--I had a feeling the friend I bought it from recently would not move it for a while-I'd been storing it for him. In any case, it doesn't have a hiking strap, but it does have a nice Harken 205 swivel base and a standard stand-up ratchet block. Decks are very nice and the bottom is pretty good too. So all it needs is a hiking strap which means a couple of access ports, and a plastic drain plug. As much as I like the white ports, I'm going with 5" Viking gray ports since the Bottleport is gray only--so that on one side, and a bag on the other.

Itchy is good for you. It is part of being a sailor.
 
I'll be painting the entire boat light gray. She'll carry 4 curved blue-green color stripes (NOT STRAIGHT). I want the stripes to resemble the outline edges of a sail from a top view..

the tub will also be blue green..

the black ports i have were cheap as i don't plan on using them often. i'll be using a proper port for the hole i'm going to place on the deck, which will hold a cat bag for storage..
 
I'll be painting the entire boat light gray. She'll carry 4 curved blue-green color stripes (NOT STRAIGHT). I want the stripes to resemble the outline edges of a sail from a top view..

the tub will also be blue green..

the black ports i have were cheap as i don't plan on using them often. i'll be using a proper port for the hole i'm going to place on the deck, which will hold a cat bag for storage..

Sound nice. Post a picture when you are done.

So you will need to pick a nice looking sail to match all that blue and green.
 
i'm don't have the money for a new sail, but i'm not selling her anytime soon, the racing sail i have is in good shape, i'm working on replacing the window on her atm, if the new window i install on her works out i'll be ok for a while.. i am using a clear vynil shower curtain as a new window.. i might just be kidding myself that it will hold long enough to be worth the time i'm putting into seaming it together..



DSCN4033.jpg
 
Call up Neil Pryde in Stratford, CT. Ask if they will sell you some of the material they use--it is what Windsurfers use for sails. They install windows for $25, so the material would cost less than $10.
 
once i had the first port installed i knew i had to do the right thing and install another 4 ports for future maintenance etc..

my dad thinks i'm crazy.. ;) landlover..
 
Call up Neil Pryde in Stratford, CT. Ask if they will sell you some of the material they use--it is what Windsurfers use for sails. They install windows for $25, so the material would cost less than $10.

no way jose!
that is a good deal..

i would spend $100 on that sail if i knew where i could take it..THANK YOU
 
once i had the first port installed i knew i had to do the right thing and install another 4 ports for future maintenance etc..

my dad thinks i'm crazy.. ;) landlover..

Your Dad is right. 5 ports is way too many. I only install three on older Sunfishes, two on newer ones.
 
no way jose!
that is a good deal..

i would spend $100 on that sail if i knew where i could take it..THANK YOU

If this is a racing sail, then you need to have a window put in that is the same size as original. So they may charge you a few more bucks if your windows is not the same size as their template--which it probably is. So if you send it in, it may cost more than $25 plus shipping. If you call them ask for Brian--he does most of the windows.
 
Your Dad is right. 5 ports is way too many. I only install three on older Sunfishes, two on newer ones.


i want access to the bridle plates and to the deck plates for my hardware, i have the old style rudder and if it ever breaks i want to be able to replace it...
 

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